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New Panel Costs

3K views 22 replies 13 participants last post by  gregzoll 
#1 ·
I know it's impossible to give me an exact price but what does, ballpark, a new electrical panel install job cost?
My neighbor, who's an electrician, quoted me a couple prices based on a couple different options which I've included below.
The current panel is from the original 1989 build of the house and its not meeting our needs anymore.
According to my neighbor a new 200 amp panel with circuits and wiring, tamper-proof outlets (required by code out here in Des Moines, Iowa) would cost me $5500 (materials and labor).
Is this price, again ballpark, fair? HomeAdvisor has the high-end at $1400
Obviously every situation is different but wanted to know what you pros thought.
-House is about 1400 square feet
-split level
-built in 1989
-basement is finished except for about 400 square feet
 
#7 · (Edited)
What do you mean by not meeting your needs any more? Are you tripping breakers all of the time, out of panel space, what manufacturer & model# of the current panel, how many amps is it? Inquiring minds wish to know.

Our household barely hits 16 amps of use in a day, even if have the clothes washer, dryer, dishwasher, microwave, av system, three tv's going all at once. We have 100 amp service, for most households, that is more than enough, unless you have a electric water heater, electric stove & oven, sauna or steam shower, pool or spa pump.
 
#12 ·
Wait...I will comment on price...that Home Adviser site is full of chit. I have no idea what it is pricing..."Install Electrical Wiring Or Panel"? WTF does that mean?
 
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#14 ·
Next time someone calls me up to install an outlet, I'm gonna price it at $1268 and tell them to check HomeAdviser.com as that is the average price to install electrical wiring. If they complain, I'll drop my price to $450. :laughing:
 
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#3 ·
I will comment on price-----wow---get competitive bids----in this area $1200 to $2100 is common--unless you have something unusual that price is higher than average----

Perhaps you need new underground wires or something not apparent in your description of the work--
 
#6 ·
Not sure how it works there but around here the power company will run the wires from the pole to the new meter base the eletriction installs and you pay for, for free.
 
#8 ·
For almost all homes 100 amps is plenty. The only reason we have 200 amps in our home is so we can use an electric tankless water heater. If you are not tripping breakers and just need more space. I would just have a bigger panel installed.
 
#10 ·
Out of the $5500, did the electrician happen to tell you how much of that is parts and how much is labor?

This is an important question.
Thanks
No it is not. The total price is what counts. If I were to bid $5K with 4K parts and 1K labor would that be better than $5K with 2K parts and 3K labor?

Get more bids and be sure you are comparing apples to apples.
 
#11 ·
According to my neighbor a new 200 amp panel with circuits and wiring, tamper-proof outlets (required by code out here in Des Moines, Iowa) would cost me $5500 (materials and labor).
Question:
WHY do you "a need a new 200 amp panel with circuits and wiring, tamper-proof outlets"
in a 1989 home???
And I highly doubt the tamper proof requirement for just a panel change.

480, are you around to confirm?
 
#18 ·
A panel change or even service upgrade will NOT solve those issues. That is inherent to the circuits in the home.

My house has a 200A service and all 20A circuits. I still get lights dipping when the A/C or refer kicks on.
 
#19 ·
Like speedy said, a new panel is not going to fix your initial problem. Your situation is about par to having a stumble on your engine and the mechanic says you need a new engine.....

The FIRST thing I would do is map out your circuits. Looking at that door, it looks like there is little to no information on what is what. You need to know what each ckt breaker feeds.

On your microwave problem....you need to plug the toaster oven into a different outlet.....you could have a 400A load center and you will still have the same issue. Your trying to run a microwave that pulls anywhere from 1100 to 1500 watts.....and a toaster oven that most likely pulls about 1500W... on the same 20a (2400w) ckt.....no wonder the lights are flickering......

Even if you upgrade your load center, you would need to run more circuits to your kitchen....the load center replacement is cheap compared to running the new kitchen ckts....maybe his quote included that.

Looking at your panel, it looks like you have 3 240Vac breakers. Confirm they are Oven, water heater and HVAC?
 
#20 ·
I agree with others. The reason your kitchen breaker trips is because a toaster oven and microwave are both high power devices. You should have two circuits in the kitchen, so moving one of these to the other circuit might help.

Unless you're noticing a significant dip, it is fairly normal for incandescent lamps to dim slightly when you turn on a room heater, as they draw a lot of power.
 
#22 · (Edited)
That 3rd double pole breaker is not set into the buss all the way.... :huh:

That panel looks like a QO120M100 which is NOT rated for tandems.

That price should includes things like adding more circuits to alleviate the overloaded ones -- like additional kitchen circuits, as well as separating the lights from the receptacles, etc.

But it still seems to me at least to be a bit high.
 
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