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Old 02-04-2008, 08:46 PM   #31
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New panel to code?


While it is not the prettiest thing around, we were dealing with the functionality and code concerns.

You do need to tag down the NM outside the panel (you did say you were going to do this, right?) the inside can be tidied up and made to look neat. Inspectors like to see a HO's work neat. It tends to give them hope that you made an effort to do things correctly. Messy usually brings additional concern and possibly inspection to be sure that things are in order.

Oh, and I don;t know how picky your inspector is but around here, if you do not have a typed schedule, you don;t get passed. Listing "recep" is not acceptable either. You need to identify which recep(s). Neat and explanatory is good.

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Old 02-05-2008, 12:23 AM   #32
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New panel to code?


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Wow, and here I was feeling all proud of myself.


Well....I did say "sorry".
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Old 02-05-2008, 12:36 AM   #33
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New panel to code?


Two ground rods will solve the problem.


How about making gosh darn sure you are bonded back to the service neutral? That is really all that counts.

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Old 02-05-2008, 08:49 AM   #34
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New panel to code?


The neutral bar is bonded to the case via the green screw. You can kind of make it out in the top right corner of pic #3.

That being said, this is a Cutler Hammer BR 100 AMP panel. Was the intention of this design to separate the grounds and neutrals? Or becasue the neutral bar is bonded, can I run grounds and neutrals to either bar. My original intention was to run each to their respective bars. Now in full agreement with 220/221, I need to clean up the install and some of the neutrals are to short. I can either run them to the ground bar or add extensions. What is the preferred method in this type of case?

Thanks,

Ben

Last edited by Bcoleman6; 02-05-2008 at 08:51 AM. Reason: Fix some grammer issues.
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Old 02-05-2008, 11:51 AM   #35
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New panel to code?


HI Ben

Be glad 220/221 didn't try to guess your age and demeanor you would really have been insulted.

I will agree though he is right that you need to 'clean' the panel up a tad. Try to bring your wiring down the sides of the panel then turn and go straight into the neutral bar or beaker. You can use plastic ties if you like to keep things neat. Both the left and right neutral bars are bonded to each other and to the metal can of the panel so you can use either for your grounds and neutrals. Only one neutral per hole. Grounds can be doubled if they are the same size.

As mentioned you need to fasten the cables within 12 inches of leaving the panel.

I don't see a lock down kit on your back fed breaker?

Try to make your panel look like this and of course you have to use common sense as to where the old wires should be routed to keep from splicing them if possible.
Attached Thumbnails
New panel to code?-proper-wiring.jpg  


Last edited by Stubbie; 02-05-2008 at 12:03 PM.
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