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Old 01-16-2011, 07:22 PM   #16
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New outlets don't work!!


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Originally Posted by SectumSempra View Post
Yes it is.
Can you tell me how many wires and where they are connected in the box controlled by the switch?

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Old 01-16-2011, 07:22 PM   #17
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New outlets don't work!!


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Unless the switch is operating all the receptacles, you have a loose connection somewhere.
Where could it be loose for 3 outlets on 3 different walls to not work but for one on the 4th wall to work?
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Old 01-16-2011, 07:25 PM   #18
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New outlets don't work!!


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Can you tell me how many wires and where they are connected in the box controlled by the switch?
2 white wires to silver screws and 1 red wire to brass (which goes to the switch).
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Old 01-16-2011, 07:55 PM   #19
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New outlets don't work!!


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Originally Posted by SectumSempra View Post
Yes it is.
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Originally Posted by SectumSempra View Post
2 white wires to silver screws and 1 red wire to brass (which goes to the switch).
It looks like the problem is somewhere after your switch as the hot wire serving the switch is working fine and hot wire (RED in this case) between the switch and the outlet is working fine. Unless one of the outlets in the circuit is feeding the switch you will need to install a GFCI outlet for the switched outlet. Since none of the other outlets are working I am making a guess that none of those outlets are supplying the hot wire to the switch. Since you have two neutrals in the in the outlet if that GFCI outlet trips it may have an impact on your entire circuit but that is beyond my experience as all the GFCI work I have done has been non-switched. Maybe someone else can comment.
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:31 PM   #20
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Since you didn't do anything in the switch box and only replaced receptacles and the switched receptacle is working .... It would be my guess that power enters the switch box first and then goes to the box with the switched receptacle. That cable is black,red and white from the switch to the switched receptacle. The red is your switched hot for the receptacle and the black is your constant power. So at the receptacle box the black in the cable with the red wire should be in a wirenut with another black that is taking power on to the other receptacles ... there should also be 2 white neutrals in the switched receptacle box connected to the receptacle silver screws along with the red wire connected to brass screw.

So there are few possibilities .. a bad connection for a neutral going to the other receptacles from that switched receptacle box or a bad connection of the black wires taking constant power to the other receptacles. So redo all the connections in the switched recptacle box. Making doubly sure the black wires are in a wirenut properly and tight.

Now go to a non-working receptacle box and test black to white .. if your connections are good in the switched receptacle box you should be able to get 120 volts on one set of black and white wires (in the same same cable) in one of the receptacle boxes downstream of the switched receptacle.

See if that holds true.
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Old 01-17-2011, 02:27 PM   #21
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Since you didn't do anything in the switch box and only replaced receptacles and the switched receptacle is working .... It would be my guess that power enters the switch box first and then goes to the box with the switched receptacle. That cable is black,red and white from the switch to the switched receptacle. The red is your switched hot for the receptacle and the black is your constant power. So at the receptacle box the black in the cable with the red wire should be in a wirenut with another black that is taking power on to the other receptacles ... there should also be 2 white neutrals in the switched receptacle box connected to the receptacle silver screws along with the red wire connected to brass screw.

So there are few possibilities .. a bad connection for a neutral going to the other receptacles from that switched receptacle box or a bad connection of the black wires taking constant power to the other receptacles. So redo all the connections in the switched recptacle box. Making doubly sure the black wires are in a wirenut properly and tight.

Now go to a non-working receptacle box and test black to white .. if your connections are good in the switched receptacle box you should be able to get 120 volts on one set of black and white wires (in the same same cable) in one of the receptacle boxes downstream of the switched receptacle.

See if that holds true.

This was the problem... apparently when i replaced the switch receptable the other hot wires got loose. But I fastened them back together and everything works now!!

BTW an employee at Home Depot to buy some bare wire and wire it to a screw in the box. That will be a ground wire. Which is what I did. Everything is great now. THANKS GUYS!!!
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Old 01-17-2011, 03:05 PM   #22
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New outlets don't work!!


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Originally Posted by SectumSempra View Post
This was the problem... apparently when i replaced the switch receptable the other hot wires got loose. But I fastened them back together and everything works now!!

BTW an employee at Home Depot to buy some bare wire and wire it to a screw in the box. That will be a ground wire. Which is what I did. Everything is great now. THANKS GUYS!!!
Yea, those guys really know what to do!
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Old 01-17-2011, 03:18 PM   #23
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Yea, those guys really know what to do!
I hope he comes back to ask why you said no.
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Old 01-17-2011, 03:27 PM   #24
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We are not done yet .. You still have to understand that you are likely going to need gfci protection for the receptacles you installed. A ground wire to the box in itself will not 'ground' the receptacle. You need to explain to us what your existing wiring method is .... armored cable, nm (romex), etc.. then we can begin to understand how to advise you of code compliance requirements.
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Old 01-17-2011, 06:08 PM   #25
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It's armored cable.. but went ahead and bought a GFCI receptacle. Everything still seems to be working fine.


I can see there's a couple jerks on this board......
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Old 01-17-2011, 06:53 PM   #26
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If I may suggest a very visual tool to tell you what is wrong (plus how you may not actually be grounded no matter what the HD Employee says), buy a test plug. Three prong with LED lights is maybe $8 or so, spend another $3 and it'll let you test the GFCI too. I've attached an image. I check every outlet I do with this type of tool to make sure I've done it right.
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Old 01-17-2011, 06:57 PM   #27
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Armored cable may or may not provide for a equipment ground and effective fault path for fault current to use to return to the service equipment (main disconnect or panel) and transformer (source). If that armored cable doesn't contain a small bare wire bonded to the sides of the inner wall of the cable then you have a vintage of armored cable that is not allowed to provide a grounding path.

Can you tell if you have that bonding wire .... see below

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Old 01-17-2011, 07:56 PM   #28
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New outlets don't work!!


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Originally Posted by SectumSempra View Post
It's armored cable.. but went ahead and bought a GFCI receptacle. Everything still seems to be working fine.


I can see there's a couple jerks on this board......
You come to this forum for advice and guidance in fixing a problem but along the way you create a dangerous situation that could affect you or anyone in your house. Yes, an outlet can work and provide power without a ground wire and cars and go down the road without brakes too. Electrical safety is an underlying theme on this forum and doing things the correct way is too. It's too bad that those who should welcome the advice frequently find it not to their liking...
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:00 PM   #29
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You come to this forum for advice and guidance in fixing a problem but along the way you create a dangerous situation that could affect you or anyone in your house. Yes, an outlet can work and provide power without a ground wire and cars and go down the road without brakes too. Electrical safety is an underlying theme on this forum and doing things the correct way is too. It's too bad that those who should welcome the advice frequently find it not to their liking...
I welcome all advice, but at the same time I don't expect smart a$$ remarks from certain people when something may or may not be wrong. I have never swapped out receptacles before and when asking my father (who wired houses for telephones when he was in the workforce) how to do it he just basically said "just set them up the same way the others are". When it didn't work the way I expected, I came to this forum to ask experts. I appreciate those that did take the time to help, but when people just come in and say stuff like what people like brric said, it makes u look like an a$$hole. And for what... for nothing... bcuz you didn't offer any advice. Do you think I want to blow up my house and the people in it? No I don't. I'm veyr glad I learned what I have learned here about installing sockets.... but the smart remarks from some people just aren't necessary. At leats offer some help with it if you're goign to have somemthign like that to say.
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:28 PM   #30
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Just a few questions.

Did you check the AC cable for the bonding wire as Stubbie asked?
Did you measure the voltage from the hot wire to the ground and the box with a multimeter?
How did you secure the ground wire to the box (grounding clip, dedicated grounding screw, screw on the cable clamp)?

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