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Old 12-02-2009, 10:24 PM   #1
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Need help wiring for Nema 10-30


I searched here for an answer to my question but it seems noones asked this specific question.

I recently purchased a 220v jointer. In the manual for the jointer it says its to be used on single phase 110v or 220v only. It came prewired for 220v but without a plug. I could switch it to 110v operation but it requires a new switch and a 20 amp 110v receptical which I dont currently have.

In my house I have a Nema 10-30 receptical for my dryer. I'm seeing that it was replaced in 1996 by the Nema 14-30, which is defined as a single phase plug. I can't find info on whether my 10-30 plug is single phase.

Can I use a 10-30p on my jointer without an issue? Do I need to add an external true ground instead of relying on the neutral on the 10-30?

I appreciate any help.

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Old 12-02-2009, 11:37 PM   #2
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Need help wiring for Nema 10-30


you are supposed to use a nema 6-30 if you need the 30 amp circuit. What is the manuf specs or requirements for a circuit (amperage wise)?



do you use the dryer circuit? Does that recep go to a sub panel or the main panel? Does the circuit have any other taps on it?

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Old 12-03-2009, 04:32 AM   #3
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Need help wiring for Nema 10-30


A NEMA 10-30 configuration is a non-grounding type, and should not be used.

As nap said, the proper configuration is a NEMA 6-30. Or you could use a NEMA L6-30, which is the twist-lock type.
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:17 AM   #4
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Need help wiring for Nema 10-30


Quote:
Originally Posted by nap View Post
you are supposed to use a nema 6-30 if you need the 30 amp circuit. What is the manuf specs or requirements for a circuit (amperage wise)?



do you use the dryer circuit? Does that recep go to a sub panel or the main panel? Does the circuit have any other taps on it?
The manual states a 20 amp circuit will work.

I do use the dry circuit for the dryer, it is the only 220v drop in the house. I'd really rather use this circuit since I'm renting this house for the next 18 months. I believe there is only one panel in the house, no subpanels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kbsparky View Post
A NEMA 10-30 configuration is a non-grounding type, and should not be used.

As nap said, the proper configuration is a NEMA 6-30. Or you could use a NEMA L6-30, which is the twist-lock type.
So I should not use the 10-30 even if I provide my own insulated true ground?

I have plenty of L6-30s left over from my datacenter build out at work but I have no way to change the receptical in this house at the moment.
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:06 AM   #5
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Need help wiring for Nema 10-30


since this is a rental, I cannot advise you change any wiring without the landlords permission. Generally it is unwanted by the landlord and in many cases, simply illegal to do.
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:16 AM   #6
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Need help wiring for Nema 10-30


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since this is a rental, I cannot advise you change any wiring without the landlords permission. Generally it is unwanted by the landlord and in many cases, simply illegal to do.
I'd like to stay away from receptical changes as well.

So no way to use the current receptical either alone or with a seperate true ground without causing a fire hazard?
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:59 AM   #7
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Need help wiring for Nema 10-30


Sorry guy. I really feel you need to ask your landlord about this.

How does he feel about a jointer in the house? I know if I were you landlord, I would have a serious problem with it.
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Old 12-03-2009, 11:01 AM   #8
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Need help wiring for Nema 10-30


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Sorry guy. I really feel you need to ask your landlord about this.

How does he feel about a jointer in the house? I know if I were you landlord, I would have a serious problem with it.
He didnt have a problem with the CNC as long as it didnt require a change to the house wiring. The jointer is no different.

Out of curiosity, why would you have an issue with it?
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Old 12-03-2009, 11:28 AM   #9
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Need help wiring for Nema 10-30


why would I have problems with a jointer?


You are speaking about a woodworking machine that has a fast moving horizontal set of blades intended to square and straighten the edge of a board that produces copious amounts of wood shavings and dust that tend to fill up every crevice in a building, including electrical panels and air ducts?

If so, it is because I have done electrical work for woodshops and the shavings and dust fill every crevice in the building, including electrical panels, boxes, and air ducts and are nearly impossible to totally clean.

I spent many hours simply opening junction boxes that contained switches just to empty the accumulated wood dust and shavings.

It is a huge mess to deal with and I would not allow such in a house....EVER.

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