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Old 11-20-2008, 09:39 AM   #16
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Need help on Electric range wiring


First of all I would like to thank everybody involved for their help. From all the posts I have read, what I am getting out of it is to just get rid of that original wire to the stove all together, have an electrician run me a new 4 wire to the outlet and purchase the correct stove cable with the right Amp rating. I did check the electrical box and it is a two pole 50 Amp.

For safety reasons, I am going to disconnect the stove for now. after the electrician says it is safe, I will plug it back it.

Thanks again everyone!!

Ron

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Old 11-20-2008, 11:27 AM   #17
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Need help on Electric range wiring


Very good call Ron, I didn't want to give you such a pessimistic response but I worry about how everything else has been done when I see a simple range plug wired like yours. That was just a red flag to me.
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Old 11-20-2008, 01:38 PM   #18
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Need help on Electric range wiring


Just a little indictor of how dangerous the current setup is, if the bonding strap was in place on the stove, you'd have 120 volts at the metal chassis of the stove. The white wire being connected to the "neutral" lug on the outlet and then tied into the breaker in the panel is a bad setup. As it was said on here before, your stove may have the 120 volt parts to it fried since you could technically be feeding 240 volts to it. Unless of course you are lucky enough that the 120 volt items were fed off the lug with the bare ground wire attaced (and of course the neutral lug) then it would have just been backwards (and you'd be very lucky, lol).

Though im sure you'd have known if the 120volt circuits on the stove were fried by now.
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Old 11-20-2008, 03:24 PM   #19
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Need help on Electric range wiring


I would have just wired the recep properly and put the bonding strap back on.


That was one of the more knuckleheaded installations I have seen. Even a novice can look at the recep, cord and appliance and figure out which terminal is the ground.
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Old 11-20-2008, 05:12 PM   #20
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Two things I'd like to say. First the NEC doesn't allow a 3 wire cable like he has to be used. Is it a hazard to use the existing one? ....I reluctantly say no.

However it isn't an SE type cable and it will not have an insulated neutral when connected properly, therefore it is not allowed by todays electrical codes for 3 wire range supply branch circuits. There are a few other things that may disallow the branch circuit also. No one who has said to use a cable like the one shown in this thread has ever told me or shown me authorization that can be verified where any local code or other will allow that cable. I can show you several local codes that say no.

It isn't about whether the cable can be used in the same manner as the old 3 wire cables of SE type.... it can. It is about the added safety of using 4 wire cables so that ground and neutral can be separated from the metal frame of the range. This removes a current carrying conductor from being connected to the range metal and sharing the ground fault path and lessens the possibilty of energizing the metal of the dryer. So 4 wire cables have been mandated since 1996 to keep 3 wire installations from continuing to be installed....this is for human safety... not because the fact that the 3 wire cable shown in this thread is no different in electrical properties than the old SE 3 wires. This has little bearing on whether it is code legal. Simple fact is... the cable shown cannot use the bare wire as a neutral it is required to be used as a non current carrying equipment ground only.

When someone can show me authorization to do so I will humbly retract my statements here.

2nd

About the bonding strap...220/221 is correct for 3 wire connections it needs to be there. And most ranges come prewired for a 3 wire connection with bonding strap or wire installed.. I recently installed a range prewired for 3 wire connection new out of the box so to speak for a customer and noticed something I haven't come across. There was no bonding strap or bonding green/yellow stripe wire connected at the neutral terminal for the required bonding means. Instead there was a white wire connected under the green grounding screw you would normally use in 4 wire installations. That white was then spliced into the neutral inside the dryer at the main harness. the instructions said to take the white wire and connect it to the neutral terminal if a 4 wire connection was desired. So point is.. be aware of the different ways a manufacturer does the bonding. It may be straight forward for an electrician but not so for the home owner.

Sorry for the long winded reply.
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Old 11-20-2008, 08:00 PM   #21
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Houses built 25 years ago had 3 wire systems and it was not uncommon to see them hard wired. The last reply was correct in that #8 wire is rated for 40 amps and unless you have some unioque range they(electric) are rated for 40 amps. Someone replace the wire with a plug and receptacle. They have and a common - line - line connection. The voltage from common to either line should be about 115. the range there is a metal jumper from the range to common to keep people from touchig two different units and getting zapped. You might want to get someone qualified to look at the connections before all the well intentioned people (like me) get someone hurt)

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