DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

Need Help!!! - Compression connector to LR and LB

6K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  Stubbie 
#1 ·
I am running THHN wire through 1" EMT from my outside electrical panel up the side of my house into the attic. I will be using an LB to penetrate the stucco wall then switch to metal flex once in the attic to a junction box. Romex will branch out from the junction. My question is, do i remove the lock ring and gasket from the wet approved compression connector when I screw it into the LR (see first pic)? My other question is the adapter to the flex metal conduit. It also has a lock ring on it. Do I remove the ring also when threading it into the LB (second pic)? If I am not using the right things let me know as this needs to pass inspection. I am located in SoCAL. THANKS!!
 

Attachments

See less See more
2
#2 ·
This is whats coming out of the panel.

If I were to guess you remove the lock ring and leave the rubber gasket ??

Can anyone answer my questions? Thanks for any help

This is what I have so far (pic below). Currently I am using a Wet location approved compression connector. Do I remove the lock ring and gasket or leave one or both? Thanks so much

This is the connector I am trying to use now.
 

Attachments

#5 ·
"Remove the lock ring and use the gasket" That's what I thought was correct but it seemed as if the gasket has the potential to squeeze out. After some reading online it appears that the water tight connector has straight threads VS. tapered threads on rigid conduit and the threads alone wont seal out moisture. I wish they made LRs and LBs with compression ends for EMT.
 
#7 ·
stubbie, I just thought it would be easier to pull the wires. I am running 6 12 gauge wires and 3 10 gauge wires (THHN). Any reason to use the sweep vs the LR?

At the top where the LB penetrates the stucco I will switch to Flexible metal conduit which will then travel about 10 feet to a junction box. I will branch off with romex from the junction. I plan to run Hot, Neutral and the ground for each circuit although I have been told the ground is not really need since the conduit provides the ground. I will just attach the ground wires to the junction box. Can I run just one ground wire or do I need one for each circuit? Hope this will pass code.
 
#8 ·
Only one ground is needed. It will need to be sized based on the largest circuit size through the conduit.

Have you looked at derating issues? Why 3 #10's?
 
#9 · (Edited)
I just thought it would be easier to pull the wires. I am running 6 12 gauge wires and 3 10 gauge wires (THHN). Any reason to use the sweep vs the LR?
Just cleaner and less chance of water intrusion. The LR is fine if you want to go that route. Just seems unecessary to me and I don't see any advantage to pulling the wire.


At the top where the LB penetrates the stucco I will switch to Flexible metal conduit which will then travel about 10 feet to a junction box. I will branch off with romex from the junction. I plan to run Hot, Neutral and the ground for each circuit although I have been told the ground is not really need since the conduit provides the ground. I will just attach the ground wires to the junction box. Can I run just one ground wire or do I need one for each circuit? Hope this will pass code.
As Jim said one # 10 ground to the junction box at the end of the FMC. I like the FMC as it will let you get to a JB that is probably going to be in an easier location to work in. Be sure to fasten it about every 4 feet to meet code.. and 12 inches from every conduit body or box to meet code. Same with the romex.

When you branch off to your #12 romex circuits of course the #12 ground will just tie into the #10.

Do not put more than 9 current carrying wires in the conduit run (hots and neutrals) or deration will lower the table ampacity of the #12 wires to less than 20 amps....Jim mentioned this earlier.

Do not reduce to less than 3/4 FMC or you will exceed FMC conduit fill for 6 #12's and 3 #10's plus #10 ground.

Do all those things and you should be good on code compliance.

Might want to pick up a stick of duct seal for around the LB opening going into the house attic.

Only thing else is you might consider a short nipple out of the LB then reducing to 3/4 FMC. This will give you better access to the connection fitting for the FMC... but I can't see your situation so it may not be necessary.

Also as Jim mentioned 3 #10's ? Is that for a small 120/240 volt panel ? Or an appliance?
 
#10 ·
Also as Jim mentioned 3 #10's ? Is that for a small 120/240 volt panel ? Or an appliance?
I need one 30 amp circuit and two 20 amp circuits.

When I said 3 #10 I was thinking one hot, one neutral, and one ground. After reading your post I really only need the following:
  • Four #12s for the hot and neutral of each 20 amp circuit.
  • Three # 10s for the hot and neutral of the 30 amp circuit plus one for ground.
Correct me if I am wrong and by the way, you guys are great.

Thanks!!
 
#11 ·
I need one 30 amp circuit and two 20 amp circuits.

When I said 3 #10 I was thinking one hot, one neutral, and one ground. After reading your post I really only need the following:
  • Four #12s for the hot and neutral of each 20 amp circuit.
  • Three # 10s for the hot and neutral of the 30 amp circuit plus one for ground.
Correct me if I am wrong and by the way, you guys are great.

Thanks!!
All this sounds fine, should go smoothly enough.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top