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Old 09-21-2007, 10:30 PM   #46
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Need to change my electrical panel? 2nd opinion needed


Moi ???


i am sure we like to see the photo of that breaker box and the mess in there if one there.



Sorry stubbie i was too tempting to tell ya but OP is a lady you should catch it on the forum

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Old 09-21-2007, 10:48 PM   #47
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Hey.. I know lots of men named Lori......eerrr ....well maybe I've just heard of them. Oh boy...Ou je peus obtenir la biere

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Old 09-21-2007, 10:52 PM   #48
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to ???? ya ready stubbie ???
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:57 PM   #49
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Cheers
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:59 PM   #50
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Stubbie :: i will shake your hand you sure did put up good challange with me.

Merci , Marc
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Old 09-21-2007, 11:03 PM   #51
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Always a pleasure have a good evening

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Old 09-22-2007, 10:35 AM   #52
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you guys crack me up...any way you shake it the panel she(good to know, i'll have to amend my coarse humor )has is a common 30 space 40 circuit panel. Only the bottom five spaces(in her case top) will take the tandems. I know this because I once worked with a contractor who used this exact panel. I'm off to bed now, just got in from a building shutdown at GA TECH that started 10PM last night ind ended 11AM this morning. My eyes are crossed!
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Old 09-22-2007, 07:29 PM   #53
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Why not try this? Shut off the breakers one at a time. (Carry a flashlight). See which one shuts the lights in question off. Of course, turn the others back on as you go.Open the refrigerator door and see if the light inside comes on. It may be or might not be on the same circuit, if the fridge light is off, it's on the same one. Simple, safe, and not just conjecture.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
One of Square D's advertised features is that the QO panels can be rotated 180. You can also rotate or remove the interior with two hexnuts. There is no bottom and no top.

The QO tandem breakers in question may have been made before 1967, when there wasn't any circuit limiting rejection mechanism required. You could load as many tandems as you wanted in a panel. SqD added the rejection feature in '67, and this "piggy back" style of breakers were only manufactured until '81. None of them seem to have the Visi-trip window, this is probably an old panel.

SquareD has had their HQ in the US for over 100 years.Now located in Pallatine Ill.; it was previously in Detroit, then Chicago.

Andy,
Your 10PM to 11AM shutdown really MUST have beat you up! You posted your reply at 10:35, nearly half an hour before you got off !

Last edited by DuncanB; 09-22-2007 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 09-23-2007, 01:31 AM   #54
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Duncan.. thats interesting. Lori is going to get some pictures of the guts hopefully. Anyway, I also thought it was an old panel that just looks in real good shape. I am most familiar (commercially speaking) with Square d column panels as that is what we had at my job with Ford before we (nearly 13000 of us) retired. I was thinking that when they were bought by schnieder electric they moved to Canada, but my memory ain't so good these days. Wow! 100 years is a long time for a company these days. Their products always served us well.
I hadn't realized we didn't verify the fridge on the circuit with the dimming light(s)..I thought she said it was but of course I also see your point regardless.

Like to ask you a question since we are on the subject of breakers....what does ctl stand for ? I'm thinking it was circuit total limiting but that just isn't sounding right to me.

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Old 09-23-2007, 01:44 AM   #55
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Stubbie let me fill you in with the QOT ctl breakers i have a link it will read in pdf file once you read it this will be found in lower right part of the PDF file it will stated pretty clear there

http://ecatalog.squared.com/catalog/.../17407010.html

here is the link ,.. enjoy it

Merci , Marc
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Old 09-23-2007, 05:30 AM   #56
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I'm finally up--My post times are EST so I actually posted in Atlanta at 11:35 AM. Duncan, I hear what you are saying, but I doubt that the panel in question is more than ten years old and probably much less. Based on the age of the house the entire kitchen is likely to be limited to one or two circuits with a modern house having 8-10. This thread has been very informative and it will be interesting to see how it turns out.
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Old 09-23-2007, 09:23 PM   #57
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"I doubt that the panel in question is more than ten years old and probably much less."



It's also the wrong color, that bluish hue hasn't been around for a long time, neither have the steel handles like on the disconnect.
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Old 09-24-2007, 04:17 PM   #58
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You are probably right, wouldn't be the first time I've been wrong. Hopefully she'll snap some pics when the new electrician comes...
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Old 01-29-2009, 08:19 PM   #59
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Need to change my electrical panel? 2nd opinion needed


[quote=I_have_questions;63886]Hello, I've been having issues with my kitchen lights dimming when the fridge comes on. I had an electrician in here last week to change a plug outlet (the one for the fridge, it was in the middle of the wall for some reason), and when he was here, he said I need to change the entire panel in the basement. He said (bear with me, I know next to nothing about this stuff) that I currently have a "15", when the standard is a "20", and the current load on the fridge's circuit is 18.4, but that normally a circuit can handle up to 5 more.

I asked for an estimate, the rep came over and told me that it needs to be changed because of what the electrician said, and that the switches are 'doubled' (all I can think of is that some switches seem to have a 'peg' that ties two together), which is not to code, and that even with changing it, I still might have the light dimming issue because the fridge should be on its own circuit, and that since my wiring is "15", they'll just replace the panel with a "15", and not a "20".

My questions: If I post a pic of my panel, could you tell me if they're trying to take me for a ride or if I do need a new one?

Why replace the panel, couldn't they just make the fridge plug its own circuit? If so, what kind of work does that entail?

Thank you so much for any help, much appreciated.

-Lori[/quot
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Old 01-29-2009, 08:30 PM   #60
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hi lori, Im a electrician and it seems to me the guys are FULL OF IT..
First of all that is true you need a 20 amp breaker with the right wiring to handle 20 amps.
But you dont need to change a panel to do that. They need to add you a 20 amp Dedicated circuit. ( should not cost more than 500. 00 at the most.. Alos I was thinking if your refrigerator is pulling 18 amps. then you just might need a new one seems kinda old to be doing that. I was woundering to if just the kitchen lights dim or all lights through out the house. I would say the only way I would change my panel is if it is a F.P.E. (federal pacific) Or Zinsco.. If it is one of these two. Seek help A.S.A.P
F.Y.I. : something in that case could also be a loose neutral either at the meter, panel, or simply the power company's Neutral on there end..But good luck

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