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Old 10-16-2007, 09:21 AM   #1
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Need brainstorming ideas on hiding a wire....


I'm installing an appliance on the wall about 5' off the ground. The electrical cord is 3-wire #6 and comes out the bottom of the unit, there is about 18" of cord. I'm wiring from the panel over to the unit through the wall so I'm thinking of ways to connect the two and make it look decent as this is in a visible spot of the house. I don't want to hide the connection inside the wall in case I need to remove/change the unit in the future.

I don't believe they make a 3-wire 60amp plug, otherwise I'd wire an outlet and a plug. I could just do a random junction box on the wall and pig-tail them inside, but I was curious if anybody had a better or more "aesthetically pleasing" idea.

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Old 10-16-2007, 10:06 AM   #2
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Need brainstorming ideas on hiding a wire....


Unless you build a cabinet I'm not seeing a "pleasing way" to connect the appliance whip with what appears to be an appliance that should be hard wired. By 3 wire I would assume your meaning a strictly 240 volt appliance with no neutral wire needed.

What is this appliance?
What is its wattage on the nameplate?

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Old 10-16-2007, 10:21 AM   #3
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Need brainstorming ideas on hiding a wire....


Is your definition of "hard wired" the same as mine: wired directly to the panel? If so, that is not possible. Warranty of the appliance is voided if it is rewired and I cannot remove the cover; plus, 18" won't get me there. Correct, 3 wire = 2 hot + 1 ground, wattage is 11.8KW.

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Old 10-16-2007, 10:34 AM   #4
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Need brainstorming ideas on hiding a wire....


Install a receptacle near or if possible behind the unit. An accessible receptacle. Install this circuit with approved cable. Shorten existing cord and install a mated plug.
You cannot run this cord behind or through walls. If it is metal jacketed you may be able to depending on what it is rated for.

For NEMA plugs and receptacles just Google NEMA receptacles and Plugs. You will find the receptacle and plug that matches, and the type that you want.
Since the existing cord is # 6 AWG. Check the nameplate amps on the unit. Size the receptacle and plug for this current. A #6 whip from the factory indicates this will be a considerable load.

This looks like a dedicated circuit to me (one circuit). Meaning a breaker and wiring to meet the load demand.
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Old 10-16-2007, 10:35 AM   #5
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Need brainstorming ideas on hiding a wire....


Hard wired means appliance whip is wired to the supplying branch circuit in a junction box. The wattage shows 49 amps minimum required branch circuit unless manufacturerer states otherwise. Is the 18" whip a metal flex with individual wires? Or is it a cord?

Edit: 50 amps will serve this appliance (if you are allowed to cord and plug) and the manufacturer does not state 60 amp branch circuit required

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Old 10-16-2007, 11:01 AM   #6
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Need brainstorming ideas on hiding a wire....


JV: you say you cannot run this cord through or behind walls.... which cord are you referring to?

Stubbie: the cord from the appliance is typical plastic insulated wire, there is no conduit or metal covering (although I debating running it through conduit). Three bare wires are what I need to wire.... either pig tail, plug, etc.

On the panel end, we're running from a single 60amp breaker as per manufacturer specs. Thanks for your ideas!
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Old 10-16-2007, 11:04 AM   #7
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From what I see on the NEMA charts, the 60amp plug/recepticles are compatible only with 4-wire usages. Guess that idea is out.
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Old 10-16-2007, 11:09 AM   #8
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Need brainstorming ideas on hiding a wire....


I do not know if this is code, but why can't you mount a NEMA 60 amp outlet (run with 4 wires) and a NEMA 60 amp male plug on the appliance. Just connect the appliance to the three conductors that it needs.
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Old 10-16-2007, 11:15 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 47_47 View Post
mount a NEMA 60 amp outlet (run with 4 wires) and a NEMA 60 amp male plug on the appliance. Just connect the appliance to the three conductors that it needs.
This is one of those things that makes technical sense and likely will function just fine, but probably will not fly with an inspection. Seeing as I'd like to sell the house in 3-4 years I don't know that I want to install something I'll have to replace down the road.

I like your thinking though....... code is for people who pull permits.
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Old 10-16-2007, 11:18 AM   #10
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Need brainstorming ideas on hiding a wire....


Ok I am understanding this to be a cord with 3 wires and an outer plastic type sheath around the wires. A nema 6-50p and 6-50r will support this appliance based on the nameplate wattage. You can't go by the wire size of the appliance whip if thats what your doing to get that 60 amp requirement.

Edit: What is the appliance? Does it have anything to do with space heating?

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Old 10-16-2007, 11:21 AM   #11
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Need brainstorming ideas on hiding a wire....


The 60amp breaker comes straight from the manufacturer; max load is allegedly 54amps. I don't know where they pull their numbers from, but that's what specs say.
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Old 10-16-2007, 11:25 AM   #12
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Need brainstorming ideas on hiding a wire....


We might be able to figure that out but you need to tell us what this appliance is?

The cord and plug won't work if you have a 60 amp branch circuit required by the maker of the appliance. You will have to hardwire in a junction box.
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Old 10-16-2007, 11:28 AM   #13
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Need brainstorming ideas on hiding a wire....


I do pull permits for my projects. I am not an electrician, so I qualified my statement with, I don't know if this is code. My suggestion would be one way to wire your appliance.
If I were in the same situation, I would have at least two options and check with my inspector to see which one is acceptable.
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Old 10-16-2007, 11:42 AM   #14
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Need brainstorming ideas on hiding a wire....


http://www.titanheater.com/tankless-water-heaters.php

47 47: I didn't mean anything against you, I really do like the idea you posed. I do most of my own work and pretty much only pull permits if somebody driving down the street can see what I'm doing. The town I live in is rediculously expensive and many of the inspectors couldn't screw in a light bulb. A water heater requires 2 permits (3 if you run gas lines) at an avg. $40 each. Totally different topic there, all I'm saying is I like your thinking (it would work just fine) but in this town I can't see it passing inspection.

Looks like junction box w/ a pigtail is going to be the answer. Thanks for the ideas!

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Old 10-16-2007, 12:07 PM   #15
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Need brainstorming ideas on hiding a wire....


This is why I asked what this unit was and if it had anything to do with heating. It also explains how they are getting the 54 amps and 60 amp branch circuit.

Hard wire the unit as you state.

When I check this on the factory website I do not see as "parts included" a factory cord prewired to the heater. Is this a new unit?

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