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Old 03-15-2011, 12:07 AM   #1
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mu tractor generator.. gone?


I replaced the voltage regulator on my MF 135, has a generator not alternator. when i replaces it i took a 10ga cooper wire and held it to field it correctly by toucihing the genterminalto the batlike it said. i amde sure not to hold the wire near the field as it sid DONOT ..of course is was a tight spot and the damn ground is by the srew so i couldnt leave it loose. Anyway I took the positive pole off battery adn engine dies..i am trying to remember if thats how you tell its dead I remember someithn about doing that wiht your car and it should still run. alli know is before replacing reguator the batter seemed about same..need to charge..this time is was at 0 and the water was down..but dont know if water was like that allready. Ilive in dry part of state. Those generators are very EXPENSIVE Just to rewind are 100 or so..dont know where to start. I ws told the problem not charging should be regulator since it stays running as long as i dont turn it off just fine..it does hog gas though

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Old 03-15-2011, 06:59 AM   #2
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A properly running engine with an altenator will continue to run if the battery is removed or disconnected from the charging system. The same is not true for a generator. If the electrolyte level in the battery is low, as in down to the top of the plates, check the specific gravity (temperature compensated) for each cell in the battery. Also take a voltage reading and do an amperage load test on the battery to see if it has been damaged. If all that is OK measure the voltage at the battery with the engine turned off and compare that reading with one taken at the battery with the engine running. Off should be 12.5 - 13.0 vdc. Running at idle it should be 13.2 - 13.9 vdc. At 1500 RPM it should be 13.5 - 14.1 vdc. These readings are the same for an altenator or a generator. If you do not get the running voltages check your electrical connections for the regulator for bright clean and secure connections. Otherwise change out the regulator and recheck the battery voltages with the engine off and the engine running.

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Old 03-15-2011, 04:08 PM   #3
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This is a brand new regulator..benn sitting for a couple years but never installed. I have had thsi tractor go through batteries sinceI have had it.I am trying to figure out how to know if the generator is bad as that will be some wor to take off and bring to shop. IS there a way to check with low battery? for some reason my charger wont charge either battery above 80 %..and the one is quite new like 8 months. my jeepp has starter problems so just sat in it.disconnected. So waht your sayiing is with a generator you cant remove the positive coonection and have in run still?
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:20 AM   #4
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Correct. That feat only works with an alternator. An alternator "self-excites" its windings when first excited with battery. That works from about 6 volts on up to the hi voltage limit of the internal regulator. Generators do just that; generate voltage by swinging windings past fixed magnets. That's why there is only one lead on a generator and there are three on an alternator.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:24 AM   #5
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Quote:
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The same is not true for a generator.
Why is this?
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:56 PM   #6
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this piece of crap laptop by dell istn accpeting my camera card now..had ti take a cam pic..loos like same motor i got to get to a 3hour drive med appt so have to get specs later on starter..youcant read off other vid pic the damn thing grabs all reflection
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:22 PM   #7
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To Saturday Cowboy: What is "Why is this?" ?
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Old 03-16-2011, 10:55 PM   #8
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I think it is the generator that will continue to provide power when the battery is removed not the alternator. Alternators require field excitation but a generator has residual magnetism.
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:03 AM   #9
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these pics belong to my thread about my 220v motors on jointer

looks like i was skipping around before posting
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Old 03-17-2011, 06:27 AM   #10
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I think it is the generator that will continue to provide power when the battery is removed not the alternator. Alternators require field excitation but a generator has residual magnetism.
Yup thats right! However most good running cars will still manage to run with the battery disconnected but you can tell the the electrical system is struggling to maintain the status quo.
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Old 03-17-2011, 06:40 AM   #11
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a7ecorsair: I used to think that also, but try disconnecting just the POSitive lead from a running car equipped with an alternator and then get in and drive around your neighborhood. It's amazing. The radio still works as well as the HVAC and even the lights. NO BATTERY is connected. Then if you have an older generator equipped car, truck, or tractor that relies on battery power to run the ignition --I have a 1931 Ford pickup--(no magnetos) disconnect the battery cable again with the engine running and listen to the sound of silence.
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Old 03-17-2011, 06:46 AM   #12
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bad grounds?
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:08 AM   #13
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No I like my coffee black.
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Old 03-18-2011, 04:42 PM   #14
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OK this is all fun,but really, with a battery that is not in full condition IS there a way to test the generator without pulling it off. I really dont understand the system, from what i was told a few years ago,charging issues are the regualtor not the generator,but thts a new regualtor. i am wondering how imprtant that "phasing' or "fielding" is when you make a short from the BAT terminal to the GEN terminal( i forgot the term) the instructions said "momentarily(about 2 seconds)" but i could nto actuall see the wire touching. i used a 10ga romex ground wire so it was stiff and i was in right direction. i dont see how i could miss then the way i bent it. If they didnt use the mounting screw for ground (STUPID IDEA with limited space) I could have SEEN me touch the wire to terminals. At the price of that regulator i couldnt see them selling me a bad one. This is farm equip. they would lose business if they didnt check thier parts..long drives for farmers.
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Old 03-18-2011, 06:22 PM   #15
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OK Take your DC voltmeter and measure the battery voltage with the tractor ignition key turned off. Make sure you have your generator and regulator hooked up the way the directions call for. A 12 volt battery should read 12 - 13.6 volts at the battery terminals without the engine running. Now start the engine and bring the RPM up to about 1000 revs. Take the voltmeter and read the battery voltage again. It should now be 12.9 - 14.0 volts. If it is still reading 12 volts your problem is likely the generator. If the reading is is in the 13.5 - 14.0 range the generator is putting out and the regulator is functioning. You should be reading about 13.2 at idle and no more than 14.0 at max RPM.

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