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Old 07-06-2012, 01:01 PM   #61
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Mounting new load center to concrete block wall.


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I was also told the inspector is picky about the tension on those lugs. He likes them really tight. something like 200 ft/lbs. I have a 1/2 inch torque wrench I use on regular bolts but how do I torque those hex screws?
Make sure you don't get foot pounds and inch pounds mixed up. It's not going to be anywhere near 200 ft/lbs as you will instantly strip or break something.

I don't really think a 1/2 torque wrench will provide enough accuracy for tightning these lugs. Is it a click type wrench or does the shaft bend? What are they asking for torque?

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Old 07-06-2012, 01:05 PM   #62
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Make sure you don't get foot pounds and inch pounds mixed up. It's not going to be anywhere near 200 ft/lbs as you will instantly strip or break something.

I don't really think a 1/2 torque wrench will provide enough accuracy for tightning these lugs. Is it a click type wrench or does the shaft bend? What are they asking for torque?
Good catch. The torque listed on the can says 200 lb-in for the 1/4 hex and 120 lb-in for the 3/16.. my torque wrench is the click type.
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Old 07-06-2012, 01:13 PM   #63
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Click is better. Use your own judgement. Can you measure 10 foot pounds with it?
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Old 07-06-2012, 01:28 PM   #64
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Click is better. Use your own judgement. Can you measure 10 foot pounds with it?
Mine measures 10-200 lbs. I'll have to find a 1/2" socket style hex head now

I removed the connector and screwed the green screw in place. I think I should be good now. I noticed there are screw holes for an accessory ground bar. I'm wondering if go that route and leave the neutral bonded to future proof the box.
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Old 07-06-2012, 01:34 PM   #65
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the more I think about this the more I wish I knew more about electricity. I can't seem to grasp in my head why it matters if the neutral and ground bars are bonded in the sub-panel. They are bonded together in the main service panel so what makes a difference if they separate and then come back together at some point.
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Old 07-06-2012, 01:50 PM   #66
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Do a search for sub panels or bonding, there is tons of information about this here. In a nutshell, it's best not to have parallel fault current paths.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:47 AM   #67
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Just a quick update. I finally was able to schedule an electrical inspection for early next week. But from the sound of it it seams I may have the ground installed improperly. I have #4 groud running from the rebar grounding rods to both the water line and into the outside meter socket/disconnect. Then I also have ground running from the meter socket through the conduit into my new load center attached to the ground bar. The electrical inspector told me that I should not have the ground connected to the meter socket because it is considered non-serviceable. He made it sound like I need to run that #4 ground wire directly through the wall and into the load center.

Does this sound right?
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:33 PM   #68
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No, it does not sound right. What you did sounds right. If your main service disconnect is in the meter enclosure, that is where you connect the grounding electrode conductor and bond it to the service neutral. A 4 wire feeder is then run from there to your panel where the ground and the neutral terminal strips are not bonded together.

Unless your state or local code is different than the national electric code.
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:38 PM   #69
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No, it does not sound right. What you did sounds right. If your main service disconnect is in the meter enclosure, that is where you connect the grounding electrode conductor and bond it to the service neutral. A 4 wire feeder is then run from there to your panel where the ground and the neutral terminal strips are not bonded together.

Unless your state or local code is different than the national electric code.
Thanks. You know I'm wondering if the inspector doesn't realize my outside meter has a built-in disconnect. He may be under the impression that the meter is just a stand-alone meter and that I'm using my circuit breaker as the main disconnect. I better call to clarify.
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:18 PM   #70
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Thanks. You know I'm wondering if the inspector doesn't realize my outside meter has a built-in disconnect. He may be under the impression that the meter is just a stand-alone meter and that I'm using my circuit breaker as the main disconnect. I better call to clarify.
I'm a little confused by this myself. Do you have a "meter main" where the meter part is blocked off for POCO only but you have access to the disconnect part? If so, does the GEC attach to the disconnect side or POCO side?
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:32 AM   #71
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I think he posted a picture of it earlier in the thread Zappa.
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:36 AM   #72
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I think he posted a picture of it earlier in the thread Zappa.
Thanks, I found it. It looks so new?. For some reason I thought the outside part was old existing. Pic taken before GEC was installed?

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Old 09-05-2012, 02:48 PM   #73
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I don't see a picture of the meter pan and disconnect. The GEC would be in there.
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:25 PM   #74
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If the GEC is in the meter pan enclosure maybe that's what the inspector meant by unserviceable?
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:27 AM   #75
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I think the inspector will change his mind when he actually sees the service.

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