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Old 07-03-2012, 05:31 PM   #46
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Mounting new load center to concrete block wall.


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I have a couple more questions if you don't mind.

1- I just ran a 1/2 stiff rubber hose through my meter to simulate the 2/0 copper and measured the size. It's 56" to each hot and 49" to the neutral and ground. That gives me a fair amount of slack for compensation. Total is 160" or 13.3 feet. If I buy the 2/0 CU THWN or THHN wire can I just buy one long piece ( say 15') and use the same wire for the two hots and 1 neutral? Or does this wire need to be color coded? I planned to run the first hot and then cut it to size, then use the remainder of the wire doing the same thing with the second hot, etc.
Your plan is fine. Identify the neutral with white tape on each end.

2- If you look at the diagram I made you can see that the meter box is mounted on siding which sticks out about 2 inches from the block wall. I've seen the 2" meter offset adapters that would work but I don't see a 3" version to use on the schedule 80 pipe coming from the power company. How do I deal with this issue? Do they make any type of 3" offset? I guess it could just run straight down into the ground leaving a 2" gap between it and the block wall. But it's my understanding that the inspector wants the conduit strapped to the house. This would be difficult with a 2" gap.
Question 1, your plan is fine. Identify the neutral with white tape on each end.

A. Why are you using 3" pipe?

B.Use a minerallac with a spacer between it and the block.


Last edited by brric; 07-03-2012 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:46 PM   #47
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Mounting new load center to concrete block wall.


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Question 1, your plan is fine. Identify the neutral with white tape on each end.

A. Why are you using 3" pipe?

B.Use a minerallac with a spacer between it and the block.
The 3" sch 80 is a requirement from my power company. I am removing my overhead service and switching to underground. The poco wants 3# conduit with sweeps and a pull rope.
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:07 PM   #48
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Mounting new load center to concrete block wall.


I was researching wire prices and seen this online. Whats the difference between the THHN wire and XHHW wire. One is $2.60 a foot and the other is $3.60 per foot. The specs look similar. It states that both wires have 19 strands but from the picture it appears the THHN wire has larger strands. Are both of these permitted for my application?

http://www.wireandcabletogo.com/Copp...ding-Wire.html
http://www.wireandcabletogo.com/Copp...ding-Wire.html

BTW, I don't plan to buy online. I'm just comparing costs. The two local electrical supply houses sell 2/0 CU for $2.96 and $3.06 respectively. I think the big box stores sell it for around $3.45/foot.

Last edited by speedster1; 07-03-2012 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:36 AM   #49
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Mounting new load center to concrete block wall.


The different types of insulation allow the wire to handle different things. If you look at the features block on both those, you'll see that the THHN is gas and oil resistant, while the XHHW is sunlight resistant.
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Old 07-04-2012, 10:16 AM   #50
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The different types of insulation allow the wire to handle different things. If you look at the features block on both those, you'll see that the THHN is gas and oil resistant, while the XHHW is sunlight resistant.
thanks. I guess in my application the thhn is fine since its ran through conduit and not exposed to light.

If I get sheathed ground wire does it matter what color I get? Does it need to be green or can it be black?
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Old 07-04-2012, 12:06 PM   #51
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#4 and larger can be black taped green, #6 or smaller has to be completely green or bare
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Old 07-04-2012, 12:07 PM   #52
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Also because this wire is in a technically 'wet' location (exterior conduit) it must have a W somewhere in the wire insulation type i.e. THWN
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Old 07-04-2012, 02:42 PM   #53
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Also because this wire is in a technically 'wet' location (exterior conduit) it must have a W somewhere in the wire insulation type i.e. THWN
Or XHHW.
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Old 07-06-2012, 12:23 PM   #54
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Went today and bought my wire. Fought the oppressive heat and installed it. I think I got it right. Maybe some of you can verify. It's 2/0 CU THWN wire and #6 THWN ground wire. That 2/0 is tough to wrangle. I could only imagine 4/0.

I do have a question about the "green screw" that comes with the panel. I've been told the inspector will look for this. Also questioning the bonding of the ground and neutral bars by default. Are these supposed to be separated since the GE panel is technically a sub panel to my meter box?

First pic is of the GE Circuit breaker panel in my basement. Second pic is outside in the meter/disconnect box. Third pic is the LB below the meter box going into the back of the GE panel, and the last pic is the bottom of the GE panel where the neutral and ground at bonded together.
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Old 07-06-2012, 12:29 PM   #55
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Mounting new load center to concrete block wall.


I was also told the inspector is picky about the tension on those lugs. He likes them really tight. something like 200 ft/lbs. I have a 1/2 inch torque wrench I use on regular bolts but how do I torque those hex screws?
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Old 07-06-2012, 12:31 PM   #56
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yes the crossbar should be removed, and whichever bar you're using for only grounds should be bonded to the can.

Or you can buy an accessory ground bar and mount it to the can, and use both factory bars for neutrals leaving the crossbar in place.
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Old 07-06-2012, 12:32 PM   #57
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harbor freight/similar sells a cheap set of allen/hex sockets, good for this.

the required torque is on the label
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Old 07-06-2012, 12:35 PM   #58
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yes the crossbar should be removed, and whichever bar you're using for only grounds should be bonded to the can.

Or you can buy an accessory ground bar and mount it to the can, and use both factory bars for neutrals leaving the crossbar in place.
I think I should be good with 32 neutrals so I'll just remove the connector. What about this green screw? What do I do with that?
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Old 07-06-2012, 12:49 PM   #59
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use it to bond the bar you're using for grounds it should fit in the hole close to the bottom that doesnt have a screw
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Old 07-06-2012, 12:54 PM   #60
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use it to bond the bar you're using for grounds it should fit in the hole close to the bottom that doesnt have a screw
Thanks. I just screw it down until it contacts the can?

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