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Old 07-02-2012, 06:47 PM   #31
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Mounting new load center to concrete block wall.


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You can't use 2/0 ser. It would need to be 4/0 ser.
I've been told I can use 2/0 SER if it's copper and is a residential application

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Old 07-02-2012, 06:55 PM   #32
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Mounting new load center to concrete block wall.


you have a conduit path, just use individual THWN. Ground only needs to be #6 CU
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Old 07-02-2012, 06:59 PM   #33
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you have a conduit path, just use individual THWN. Ground only needs to be #6 CU
I would think it would be easier to pull that way isn't it?

Ground only needs to be #6? What about from the outside meter to the grounding rods? Same thing?
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:03 PM   #34
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Mhm. 200A service only requires #6 CU unless the feeder was oversized for voltage drop (not an issue for your case)
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:12 PM   #35
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I would think it would be easier to pull that way isn't it?

Ground only needs to be #6? What about from the outside meter to the grounding rods? Same thing?
#6 Cu to the ground rods, #4 Cu to the metallic water line if present, #4 Cu to the ufer if present, #6 Cu equipment grounding conductor from the service disconnect to the sub-panel.

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Old 07-02-2012, 07:50 PM   #36
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#6 Cu to the ground rods, #4 Cu to the metallic water line if present, #4 Cu to the ufer if present, #6 Cu equipment grounding conductor from the service disconnect to the sub-panel.
not sure what an ufer is. I do have a copper water pipes nearby I can connect to. Does the #6 copper in these applications need to be THHN/THWN or can it be standard solid bare grounding wire.
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:58 PM   #37
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not sure what an ufer is. I do have a copper water pipes nearby I can connect to. Does the #6 copper in these applications need to be THHN/THWN or can it be standard solid bare grounding wire.
You need to run the water ground to within 5' of where the water enters the building, and you need to jumper the water meter.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:05 PM   #38
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not sure what an ufer is. I do have a copper water pipes nearby I can connect to. Does the #6 copper in these applications need to be THHN/THWN or can it be standard solid bare grounding wire.
May be insulated or bare. We use stranded wire almost exclusively.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:06 PM   #39
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You need to run the water ground to within 5' of where the water enters the building, and you need to jumper the water meter.
That's a problem. My water enters my house on the opposite corner from the electric meter. They are on complete opposite ends. Furthermore, my water meter is located another 30 feet away from where it enters my house in a concrete enclosure with a manhole cover. I don't know how is ground that.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:12 PM   #40
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You have to run all the way to the other side of the house to hit the water. Then you have to install a small jumper around the meter and secure the jumper with J-Clamps...the same clamp you will use on the water pipe inside the house.

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Old 07-02-2012, 08:28 PM   #41
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You have to run all the way to the other side of the house to hit the water. Then you have to install a small jumper around the meter and secure the jumper with J-Clamps...the same clamp you will use on the water pipe inside the house.

Is this connection to the water line inside the house or outside? Also if all the copper in the house is connected why can't I just ground it to the copper lines in my basement? I'll have to ask my inspector about this one. I haven't looked at my water meter but I assume its jumpered already.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:38 PM   #42
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The connection to a metallic water line that has greater than 10' in contact with the earth need to be made within 5' of where it enters the house.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:46 PM   #43
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Mounting new load center to concrete block wall.


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You can't use 2/0 ser. It would need to be 4/0 ser.
2/0 Copper.
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:00 PM   #44
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2/0 Copper.
I have to apologize, I always forget about copper SER. I have never seen it, but in pictures, kind of like Bigfoot.
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:18 PM   #45
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Mounting new load center to concrete block wall.


I have a couple more questions if you don't mind.

1- I just ran a 1/2 stiff rubber hose through my meter to simulate the 2/0 copper and measured the size. It's 56" to each hot and 49" to the neutral and ground. That gives me a fair amount of slack for compensation. Total is 160" or 13.3 feet. If I buy the 2/0 CU THWN or THHN wire can I just buy one long piece ( say 15') and use the same wire for the two hots and 1 neutral? Or does this wire need to be color coded? I planned to run the first hot and then cut it to size, then use the remainder of the wire doing the same thing with the second hot, etc.

2- If you look at the diagram I made you can see that the meter box is mounted on siding which sticks out about 2 inches from the block wall. I've seen the 2" meter offset adapters that would work but I don't see a 3" version to use on the schedule 80 pipe coming from the power company. How do I deal with this issue? Do they make any type of 3" offset? I guess it could just run straight down into the ground leaving a 2" gap between it and the block wall. But it's my understanding that the inspector wants the conduit strapped to the house. This would be difficult with a 2" gap.

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