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Old 11-24-2010, 04:45 PM   #46
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Minimum distance from ground for load center.


Put another way, a regular breaker detects "there's too much current", while a GFCI detects "the current is going to the wrong place".

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Old 12-01-2010, 11:34 AM   #47
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Minimum distance from ground for load center.


When I splice the wires, do I have to house the splice in a junction box or can I use a type C conduit body? I now that a type C conduit body is primarily for pulling wire.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=SPM646981401
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Old 12-01-2010, 11:43 AM   #48
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Minimum distance from ground for load center.


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Originally Posted by nap View Post
many times there was once GFCI and any other recep that could be on the same circuit that also required GFCI was fed through that one. Try tripping the one GFCI and then checking other receps to see if any others are also off.
The recepticals in the kitchen and two baths are all on seperate circuits from each other. But, that's another project.
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:12 PM   #49
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Minimum distance from ground for load center.


Also, can I use a 2awg butt splice kit instead of split bolts? I know that the particular example below is for copper and I'd have to get one for aluminum.

http://www.doitbest.com/Wiring+conne...sku-550523.dib

And if I can, do I wait on shrinking the shrink tubing until the inspector arrives, so he can inspect the connection? Should I use electrical tape on top of the shrink tube for extra protection?
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Old 12-07-2010, 01:12 PM   #50
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Minimum distance from ground for load center.


Can I gut out the current breaker box and use it as a junction box? All the wires are there and there is plenty of room inside.
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Old 12-08-2010, 06:00 PM   #51
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Minimum distance from ground for load center.


Well, I found this on another forum. Sounds accurate.

http://www.inspectionnews.net/home_i...ction-box.html

I'll call the the building department to make sure they are o.k. with this.
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Old 03-09-2011, 03:06 AM   #52
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Minimum distance from ground for load center.


Mindz I

So what'd you do? Did you find an electrician on the cheap? or diy?

With the issues at hand, you don't want to miss something that a Home Insp. will catch that an E Insp. with a sympathetic eye let slide. You decide to unload the place and get to "rework" your LC/meter box before you can sell.

I'm quoting a replacement, outside LC, without all the issues. It's not an exact, but an "in kind" replacement. 200.00 for the LC and 150.00 an hr. for four hrs. 800.00 for the job. It's for a friend who doesn't want to pay the yellow page electrician 1250.00 The LC has an intermittent "stab" bus behind the breaker.

Pete is this inline with what you'd quote? I saw a thread from Calif. where the same job was quoted at @ 3500.00
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:46 PM   #53
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Minimum distance from ground for load center.


Well, it hasn't given us any trouble since we've been controlling our energy usage. I think between that and the cooler weather we've managed to avoid the problems. With in the next 30 days we are going to have it replaced.

As it turns out, the guy I was suggested wasn't a Master Electrician. So, we chose not to go with him. The original quote from the first electrician was $850. But, that was for an upgrade to a 200 amp box. This would have required a lot of work given the length of the wires.

We've since decided to hire an electrician to put a new box in. We're going to go with a new 100 amp box instead of upgrading to 200 amps. GE makes a 125 amp convertible main lug load center. It uses a special lock down clip for the main breaker to convert it into a main. The box will only take a 100 amp main breaker. It's size would fit perfectly with in the space of the old box. With the box, clip, breakers and permit it comes out to around $110. I think an electrician should be able to match the price on parts or even out do the box stores. All the existing wire would easily reach all the connections inside.

My wife wants me to still do it myself, but I would feel more comfortable with an electrician. That way if anything goes wrong with the installation, it falls back on him and not me.

As far as selling the house goes, it's value is less than a few thousand dollars. It's old and falling apart. When we move out, we're going to give it to anyone who wants it or just have it hauled to the dump. I'm replacing all of the sub flooring and replacing some rotted wood in the walls. We'll put some money into it to maintain it's safety and keep it comfortable to live in for the next 3 to 4 years. But, most of our money is going into paying off my school debt and building up money for a down payment on a house. We want 20 to 30 percent down. So, no home inspection will happen here. Freebie or trash. Which ever is cheaper.

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