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Old 08-03-2012, 01:00 AM   #1
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Metal Boxes/Switch


Pretty simple question. Rewiring my small shed/hobby/clubhouse/workshop with a few outlets, switches, and lights. It's served off an inlet, and plugged into the house or a generator when needed. All I run is 2 shop lights, a small tv, fan, and radio.

Are these boxes rated for NM-B wire? The built in clamps on the bottom look like they are for AC/MC cable. Or are those suitable for NM-B?



Also. While I am at it. I have am building a Halloween prop of Frankenstein's laboratory, and I thought it would be cool to get one of those giant safety switches to actually put into use for my Halloween walk. I can tell guests (neighbors, family, and friends) to throw the switch to see the laboratory come to life of lights, sounds, and fog. Is it plausible to wire the switch to plug in and feed a bank of outlets? Of course, safely and grounded. The setup is always run off of a GFCI whether its in the shed or in the woods.

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Old 08-03-2012, 07:56 AM   #2
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Metal Boxes/Switch


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Originally Posted by seansy59 View Post
Are these boxes rated for NM-B wire? .
No such item as NM-B wire but there is NM-B cable. Check this thread out titled "Pros what Do You Think About This" It is about terminology. And that box does apperar to be for NM cable. Or you can always use this box with cable connectors:

PROS: What do you think about this?



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Originally Posted by seansy59 View Post
Also. While I am at it. I have am building a Halloween prop of Frankenstein's laboratory, and I thought it would be cool to get one of those giant safety switches to actually put into use for my Halloween walk.... Is it plausible to wire the switch to plug in and feed a bank of outlets?
It is plausible. But saying it will be done safely/grounded is far from it actually being done safely and grounded. Are you going to do this wiring part of the prop yourself or have an electrician do it?
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Last edited by hammerlane; 08-03-2012 at 07:59 AM.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:29 AM   #3
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Metal Boxes/Switch


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No such item as NM-B wire but there is NM-B cable. Check this thread out titled "Pros what Do You Think About This" It is about terminology. And that box does apperar to be for NM cable. Or you can always use this box with cable connectors:

PROS: What do you think about this?



It is plausible. But saying it will be done safely/grounded is far from it actually being done safely and grounded. Are you going to do this wiring part of the prop yourself or have an electrician do it?
Excellent! Thankyou,

All wiring I am going to do since everything is low cost. In fact, the safety switch I am looking at is a plastic enclosure, which I think would be safer for "hands on" repeated use since I know one or two idiots that are going to start having some fun turning everything on/off. It may only last this Halloween.

I know that most of the switches are for 240v, but I can just wire the hot on one leg of the switch for use. If I do end up with a metal one, I will be sure to properly ground the enclosure. Wire nuts used, etc.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:38 AM   #4
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Metal Boxes/Switch


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Originally Posted by seansy59
Also. While I am at it. I have am building a Halloween prop of Frankenstein's laboratory, and I thought it would be cool to get one of those giant safety switches to actually put into use for my Halloween walk. I can tell guests (neighbors, family, and friends) to throw the switch to see the laboratory come to life of lights, sounds, and fog. Is it plausible to wire the switch to plug in and feed a bank of outlets? Of course, safely and grounded. The setup is always run off of a GFCI whether its in the shed or in the woods.

I would use a relay to switch the 120vac and just use the knife switch to close the loop of a dry contact relay so that the knife switch is electrically isolated from the 120vac. This would be safer in my opinion.

The functional devices relay RIB01BDC should do the trick. Using this will avoid a safety issue and liability concern.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:42 AM   #5
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Metal Boxes/Switch


If cost is an issue use plastic boxes instead of metal. You will need connectors and other considerations along with the NM cable if you go with metal. If you go with plastic you need no connectors and the boxes are much cheaper. Of course plastic boxes are intended for flush applications with drywall and or paneling.
I would also use low voltage for anything the public can touch.
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Old 08-03-2012, 12:09 PM   #6
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If cost is an issue use plastic boxes instead of metal. You will need connectors and other considerations along with the NM cable if you go with metal. If you go with plastic you need no connectors and the boxes are much cheaper. Of course plastic boxes are intended for flush applications with drywall and or paneling.
I would also use low voltage for anything the public can touch.
Cost is not a big issue for the boxes. That is being done is general for the shed. It is still used throughout the year, but I was going to rewire so I don't have to use extension cords dangling inside to run the lights, radio and fan's. It won't be dry walled or paneled, so metal it has to be for strength of the plug being pulled in and out. The NM-B is going to be stapled to the side of the wood so nothing can hit it. Once it hits the eaves on the top of the shed, it can safely be run out of harms way of pretty much everything. Maybe someday I'll install conduit and THWN, but for my use, right now, NM cable works wonders and is really to code other than what my father had "jerry rigged" with those little brown extension cords and splitting adapters.

I think low voltage would be ideal for the switch. I'm just not sure how to activate the fog machine though. That may have to be manually done.
I [2] 3-12v DC power supplies that are 2 amps each. That should be plenty for some flashy LED's on the panels and small hobby motors. I can just run the LV side's through the poles of the switch, and not have to worry about much.

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