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Old 03-09-2009, 09:24 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by OWLHH View Post

I have a deep well pump most likely a franklin 1HP Says on control box. The pump stopped working I checked the power to control box which has both run and start caps, potential relay and a rest button three terminal. The amp draw on yel wire is 10A, check the res of each yel blk and red all seem within range 10, 2 12

I tried to check the caps out of circuit but nothing no needle movement goes to 0 but but not back The thermal reset show 0 in all button positions

no indicated shorts to ground wire from motor. Strange voltage readings across the yel to red of over 300v, but only 240 at teh contactor and l1 and l2 inputs.

Any Ideas?


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Old 03-09-2009, 09:27 PM   #32
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The motor resistances seen about normal, the Franklin book lists a 1HP 3 wire motor as Yel-Bla 2.5, and Yel to Red 10-12. This means that the motor and wiring from the control box to the motor are likely OK. We don't know if the motor is locked, jammed, etc.

It's difficult to check a capacitor with an ohm meter, but after shorting the terminals (to dissipate any residual charge), the needle should deflect, then return to infinite. This works best at the R X 100 or 1000 scale. If there's a bleed resistor across the terminals, it'll have to be removed first. If you're using a digital meter, set it to 2000 to 5000 ohms. The auto-range doesn't let enough current through to charge the capacitor, and it'll read meg-ohms for a long time.

Are the contacts closed across the potential relay? They should be closed (0 ohms) at rest and during starting, then open when the motor is running.

Since you have a clamp-on amp meter, disconnect the run capacitor (the one with the lowest MFD rating), and read current on the red wire during starting. If 0, then either the start capacitor is bad, or the potential relay is bad.

If there is current, hook the run capacitor back up again, power it up, and read current on all 3 wires, one at a time. The yellow should read about 42 amps, the black a bit less, and red quite a bit less. If these all read OK, the pump is likely jammed. If you clamp around all 3 wires, the reading should be 0. If not, there's a ground fault.

The motor can safely take locked-rotor current for about 5 seconds, the it'll need about 2 minutes to cool down.

When the pump is running normally, current on the yellow should be about 7 amps, black about 6, and red about 3.

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Old 03-10-2009, 09:55 AM   #33
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Check the controler.

When energizd

Yel is about 14A
Blk is 12A
Red is 3A

took off red lead on run cap and measure the red 0A

when adding power it alomost sounded like it was starting to pump.

I hear a slight buzz or hum whe sytem powered. the well is deep over 100'

The franklin controler is the 1 - 1.5 hp bos two cap, one reset one relay

I can hear relay click when I was applying power I measure res with off and all contacts read 0 ohms

The pump was powered like this for awhile since I was not home for a few days. Noticed when I returned.

Measureing the voltage from Yel to red when powered it flucuates at a high volt, over 300 on the meter, the meter is cheap analog as my Fluke has stiopped working (old had is since the 1990's. Yel to Blk is 210 - 220V


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Old 03-10-2009, 10:43 PM   #34
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Those current readings are not too far off. The current being zero on the red wire with the run capacitor disconnected is normal for a pump that's running. If the pump and control box are OK, you'd see about 30 amps or so for about 1/2 second. If you can hear the potential relay click very shortly after the control box is energized, this further confirms that the motor is running. To prove it conclusively, remove the red wire from its terminal, and read current on the yellow wire. It should be around 40 amps or so. Do this quickly, not more than 5 seconds. Shorter is better.

Given the above info, I suspect that the well has gone dry, or there's an obstruction between the well and the house. Possibly a valve closed, or maybe ice?

If the water level in the well is just above the pump inlet, it'll pump for a short time, then no more water. If your water has a lot of minerals in it, the slots in the bottom of the well casing may be clogged. The best solution here is to 'dry-ice' it.

Here's how; first, pull the pump. The well can't have anything in it. Next, get about 50 lbs. of dry ice. Make sure the chunks of dry ice will fit easily down the well. Now, dump the dry ice into the well, quickly. Since dry ice is about -80F, it'll freeze the water at the bottom of the well. In doing so, the water will expand, and split the casing, just as it does with any pipe. It'll also cause the mineral deposits to flake off, and fall harmlessly to the bottom of the well. The fact that the well casing is now split doesn't matter, it has multiple slots cut into it anyway.

I wanted to bring this procedure up because a lot of local well drillers use it, and as ridiculous as it sounds, it usually works.

If the pump is actually running (I think it is), you'll likely need to bring a well driller in. The majority of them can troubleshoot a well very effectively. It might be a simple matter of lowering the pump, or it could be a bit more complicated.

Best of luck,



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