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Old 05-10-2013, 12:26 PM   #16
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Main Breaker Panel help...


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Originally Posted by tylernt View Post
If you only count the main connections ignoring tandems, there are 15 "slots" in the diagram. So slot 10 is slot 10 when a full size is installed, but becomes slots 10 and 11 when a tandem is installed. Very confusing.

But, I believe you can still put tandems in the bottom-most 8 slots (4 per side).
So I should be ok to put it on the bottom of the right left side?
that was the easiest place for me to add it...

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Old 05-10-2013, 12:32 PM   #17
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Main Breaker Panel help...


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So I should be ok to put it on the bottom of the right left side?
that was the easiest place for me to add it...
As far as I can tell, yes.

What year was this panel made? Most recent panels have a "CTL" system whereby you physically cannot install a tandem in a location it's not supposed to go. If your panel says "CTL" on it you can't mess this up.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:15 PM   #18
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Main Breaker Panel help...


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As far as I can tell, yes.

What year was this panel made? Most recent panels have a "CTL" system whereby you physically cannot install a tandem in a location it's not supposed to go. If your panel says "CTL" on it you can't mess this up.
Panel was installed in 1998 from what I have from the files.
Actually states at the top of the panel:
MURRAY TYPE G PANELBOARD, CLASS CTL PANELBOARD. E26095

so I can't mess up?
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:15 PM   #19
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Main Breaker Panel help...


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Panel was installed in 1998 from what I have from the files.
Actually states at the top of the panel:
MURRAY TYPE G PANELBOARD, CLASS CTL PANELBOARD. E26095

so I can't mess up?
You're good to go.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:29 PM   #20
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Main Breaker Panel help...


Thanks for all the help!

Figure I'll clean up all the neutral and grounds being connected together and make sure that one neutral is secure when I add the Tandem breaker this weekend.

I did have other questions about the circuits but I'll start a different post for those...
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:32 PM   #21
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Main Breaker Panel help...


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Originally Posted by MTN REMODEL LLC View Post
Zep... Yes your loose neutral actually does preent an electrical problem. Get it screwed down.

I defer to Jim.... and certainly 1 neutral per screw is a good and common practice... although I thought it was subject to manufactures instructions.
Is a code requirement.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:36 PM   #22
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Main Breaker Panel help...


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Originally Posted by MTN REMODEL LLC View Post
Ty... To the best of my knowledge, you scrape away some paint on the panel (to make best contact) and you have to tap screw (I think its a 8/32) (not just a sheet metal screw) the bar to the panel.

I believe that is sufficient.... but I always run a jumper (bare #6) from the new bar to the original panel bar, just as extra bonding.

Best Peter
If the new bar contains grounded conductors, it has to be connected to the main neutral bar with a bonding conductor. It can not rely on the enclosure to interconnect the two bars.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:14 PM   #23
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Main Breaker Panel help...


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You're good to go.

So I stopped by Home Depot on the ay home from work to pick up a tandem breaker. I see two different types - Non Lim and Twin circuit breakers. I picked up the Twin since on the non-lim it stated for replacement only and not for CTL panels.
Am I in the right here? What is the difference? Looked exactly the same to me...
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:51 PM   #24
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You need the CTL breaker.
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:09 AM   #25
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You need the CTL breaker.
That is the one I got.
Twin Circuit breaker Murray MP 2020 Type MH-T class CTL.

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