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Old 12-27-2008, 09:02 PM   #16
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Low Voltage Light Switches...40 year old house


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Originally Posted by rddrappo View Post
Problem solved. Turns out my buddy installed a regular decora rocker for his garbage disposal, and the switch was left on and the disposal unplugged. The switch was feeding constant power to the relay, just as a stuck switch would do. I turned it off, and everything works fine now. I got the satisfaction of telling him how easy a fix it was, and that he's slept with the lights on for two days for no reason! Thanks for your quick response, I appreciate it.
Yep, that would do it also.

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Old 12-29-2008, 09:47 AM   #17
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Low Voltage Light Switches...40 year old house


derekspudich
Inphase277 asked a very important question that pertains to your search for low voltage switches.
How many wires are connected to the switch?
If there are 2 wires, then more than likely they are manufactured by a company called touchplate. They are still in business and Chris75 has posted the links to their website.

If your switch has 3 wires, there’s a good chance your house has GE relays or relays using the GE three wire system installed.
These replacement switches can be found on the net as well.
Just do a search (google/ebay) and use search criteria like....GE low voltage , rr7 ge , rr8 ge, rr9 ge .and so on





Rddrappo

Problem solved?

Maybe I have it wrong but it sounds like you mentioned in your last post that your buddy retro-fitted a garbage disposal switch that may be a latching type rocker switch to take the place of a low voltage lighting switch.

The one thing that GE and touchplate low voltage switches have in common is that they are both momentary contact switches. Using a latching type switches in their place will keep your relays energized and could lead to relay failure.
I would replace that garbage disposal switch with the correct one or just remove it from the system entirely.


I hope this helps
Johne63
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Old 12-29-2008, 10:38 AM   #18
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Low Voltage Light Switches...40 year old house


Thanks. The switch is off for now, never to be used again. I'm going to properly wire in the disposal and put an air switch in the countertop to control it. I'm just glad nothing got messed up, as the rocker was left on for two days. The disposal is unplugged right now, so there was no easy way of knowing that the switch was on, causing the problem. It stayed on for two days, as he couldn't get an electrician out on Christmas to fix it. Thanks everyone for your help here, it saved someone a few hundred bucks!
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Old 10-10-2009, 12:36 PM   #19
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Low Voltage Light Switches...40 year old house


I can not turn my lights off!! The master switches and the wall rockers are not working? I changed the relay switch and it still is not working. Any ideas it is approx 43 years old GE low voltage wiring system.





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Just stumbled upon this forum and this thread. A friend called me the other day, he has a low voltage system, and all the lights in the house are on, switches won't work. Does anyone know how to fix this?
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Old 10-10-2009, 12:46 PM   #20
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Low Voltage Light Switches...40 year old house


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I can not turn my lights off!! The master switches and the wall rockers are not working? I changed the relay switch and it still is not working. Any ideas it is approx 43 years old GE low voltage wiring system.

Did you check the transfomer to make sure you are getting power to run the relay you will need a voltmeter to verify it.

They do required 24 volts to run the relay so you can not use the standard doorbell transfomer they are too small and the voltage is not high engouh to get the relay to function properly.

Merci,Marc
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Old 10-10-2009, 12:57 PM   #21
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Low Voltage Light Switches...40 year old house


I have a friend with a volt meter but I am not sure where to look for the transformer?

Thanks for the quick reply.

Jodi
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Old 10-10-2009, 01:33 PM   #22
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Low Voltage Light Switches...40 year old house


Jodi.,

You will have to look for the " master " panel it will be in basment or attic or other place it will look like monster sized junciton box typically something like 14 inch wide by 20 to 24 inch high you can able indentify by the large numbers of conductors go in the relay box there is diffrence between the load centre and relay box so look around I know it will take time but once you find the relay box look for a transfomer it will useally on the top or bottom depending on the set up.

Once you find it typically line voltage will be in the juction box while the low voltage side is out in the open simauir to the doorbell transfomer setup.

Merci,Marc
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Old 01-09-2011, 10:24 PM   #23
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Low Voltage Light Switches...40 year old house


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There is no problem with the system except for the discoloration of the relay switches and wall plates. Only one switch is currently bad and I know this because I can see that its broken. I know where the master control box is now (Remember seeing it in the attic when I re did the insulation). Does anyone know where you can buy these switches and wall plates? Also, does anyone know if their are any hazards with this type of system? Thanks for the quick response!
I found this site for replacement switch covers around nine bucks a piece. Hope this helps you too, I need parts too. Some of my house lights are froze on and others are stuck off and won't turn on. I thought this was a cool feature of the house until now.
http://www.kyledesigns.com/product/S...te-Covers.html
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Old 01-09-2011, 10:49 PM   #24
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Low Voltage Light Switches...40 year old house


They are called Touchplate controls. They are pricey and a PAIN THE REAR END.

We still sell them and can easily get controls, HOWEVER they are VERY hard to wire and screw up the relays and power supplies if you dont know what you are doing.

We have a FEW electricians who will even consider a job involving touchplate and EVERY time they come back and tell horror stories.

Good luck.
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Old 07-22-2011, 05:15 PM   #25
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Low Voltage Light Switches...40 year old house


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One of the buttons is probably stuck. They do that once they get old.
I have the same set up as your friend with all lights "on" or "off" (like the entire house is stuck"). I'll take a look at one of the switches that does get stuck.

Is it ok to just take it out and replace with the other 3 way - several other places in the house this has been done?

Thanks -

Dave
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Old 07-22-2011, 06:42 PM   #26
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Low Voltage Light Switches...40 year old house


My control box was on the ceiling of the basement and the size of a single light switch box. We had inadvertently bumped the wire off of the screw. Once we connected the only wire back onto the screw it came off of, we were back in business.
I posted a link to an online store for plates and parts in an earlier post from Jan. 2011.
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Old 07-23-2011, 07:25 AM   #27
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Thanks Ill try it.
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Old 08-20-2011, 03:40 PM   #28
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Low Voltage Light Switches...40 year old house


I also have a house built in the 50's with all of the low voltage switches. One of the relays has stopped working. The people who sold me the house left a few replacement relays, however when I open the panel, there are dozens of relays. Is there an easy way to determine which one is the bad one so that I can replace it?

Joe
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Old 08-22-2011, 12:34 AM   #29
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Low Voltage Light Switches...40 year old house


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I also have a house built in the 50's with all of the low voltage switches. One of the relays has stopped working. The people who sold me the house left a few replacement relays, however when I open the panel, there are dozens of relays. Is there an easy way to determine which one is the bad one so that I can replace it?

Joe
It depending on which relay model you have there the RR5 or RR7 the RR5 is nonlatching which it means the power on LV side have to be on all the time to run the relay while the RR7 is breif just a quick bump on the relay switch will latch either on or off modé.

To find it sometime it easy to find it and some case not you will need a helper to hit the relay switch and have someone at the master panel and listen or feel the relay actation you will hear a click or feel a thud if not then you will need a voltmeter DVM will work for this purpose the typical LV side is useally 24 volts so have a helper hit the switch few time when you look for LV side and you should read the voltage when you find it.

There will be three conductors on RR7 while RR5 will always be two conductors.

The most common curpit will be useally loose connetion or broken LV wires but one warning be extra carefull with line voltage side it will have 120 or more volts depending on numbers of circuits.

Merci.
Marc

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