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Old 06-16-2014, 08:20 PM   #31
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Long winded electrical question


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Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
There was no 120 vAC involved on the end that the cooler plugged into the Invertor.
I'm not going to waste my time spoon feeding you. Perhaps you should take a reading comprehension course.

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Old 06-16-2014, 09:22 PM   #32
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This thread is exactly why the NEC exists and why inspections are required, lol.

12v, 120v, it's all voltes, right?
This has nothing to do with the NEC.
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:22 PM   #33
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I'm not going to waste my time spoon feeding you. Perhaps you should take a reading comprehension course.
Excuse me. Looks like you need to be spoon fed. Along with going back and reading the complete post from the OP.
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:29 PM   #34
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Long winded electrical question


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Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
This has nothing to do with the NEC.
I'm awareof that. I was just saying that this is an example of why the NEC and inspections are necessary.

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Old 06-16-2014, 09:40 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by sgip2000 View Post
I'm awareof that. I was just saying that this is an example of why the NEC and inspections are necessary.

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Again, the OP post has nothing to do with the NEC. Inspections yes, for frayed or signs of melting on the plug end of the cord, and connector in the side of the cooler for burnt or melting.

There is really not much to these thermocoolers. Simplistic design at their finest. As I stated also before. If you do a search on "Coleman thermocooler cord melted". You will find a plethora of threads on these coolers having the same issue. Coleman knows about it. That is why they have the repair parts available at camping places, and truck stops.
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:41 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
Again for the 400th time. The third party was using a Power Invertor that is made for these coolers.

Go back and read the original post.
While the friend didn't plug it into a 120 outlet. The OP inserted the wires he stripped from the 12 volt power plug into a 120 volt outlet. Which is why the cooler is toast now.

From the OP.

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I also wanted to see if the cooler fan would still work, so I "tried" plugging the 2 bare wires that I unsheathed, into a house outlet....got a lot of sparks, so decided maybe I was literally playing with fire here, and could end up doing more damage to the motor and fan than anything else.
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:14 AM   #37
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beenthere, you just cannot fix it. Trying to plug a 12 vDC appliance into a 120 vAC outlet. Speaks Darwin awards. I do believe this thread has ran its course at this time.
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:56 AM   #38
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Long winded electrical question


Again, Greg didn't read the full post. #4 it can't be fixed, #8 it can be fixed.
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:17 AM   #39
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Long winded electrical question


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Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
Excuse me. Looks like you need to be spoon fed. Along with going back and reading the complete post from the OP.
In the OP's original post he also wrote that he'd plugged it straight into 120vac.

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Originally Posted by Mooseville View Post
I also wanted to see if the cooler fan would still work, so I "tried" plugging the 2 bare wires that I unsheathed, into a house outlet....
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:37 AM   #40
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In the OP's original post he also wrote that he'd plugged it straight into 120vac.
Yes and this thread has ran its course. Again. You just cannot fix you know what.
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Old 06-17-2014, 03:55 PM   #41
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beenthere, you just cannot fix it. Trying to plug a 12 vDC appliance into a 120 vAC outlet. Speaks Darwin awards. I do believe this thread has ran its course at this time.
In post #12 I said that its toast. Right after I read that he put the wires into a 120 volt outlet.

Not a Darwin award action. Just someone that didn't know how it worked, and failed to ask here if that would be a good way to test it. A mistake the OP probably won't make again in the future on any device.

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