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nhoj 02-25-2012 07:10 AM

Lighting in Basement
 
I am about to put new lighting in my basemen and plan to use can lighting.

I would like to know how many cans I should put in a room that is 12' X 28'?

I am using 6 inch cans.

I thought that 18 cans would be ideal and I would use CFL lights on 3 dimmer switches.

I am looking for the most efferent way to light the basement.

I also plan to go to a 200 amp. flues box fro a 100 amp one. They tell me that you will save on electric is this right?

I am changing my wiring to 12-3 and this will make things ran cooler also. I am a believer in this.


If you have any suggestions to make thing more efferent please help me.

TarheelTerp 02-25-2012 07:35 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Start with light at the main things like work/use areas and traffic lanes.
Then fill in the other areas in a pattern that aligns with those fixtures.

Remember to not set fixtures too close to walls...
unless they are right up next to the wall with "wall wash" covers.

Look at the 'coverage' area that each fixture can light at X feet off the floor.

HARRY304E 02-25-2012 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhoj (Post 862642)
I am about to put new lighting in my basemen and plan to use can lighting.

I would like to know how many cans I should put in a room that is 12' X 28'?

I am using 6 inch cans.

I thought that 18 cans would be ideal and I would use CFL lights on 3 dimmer switches.

I am looking for the most efferent way to light the basement.

I also plan to go to a 200 amp. flues box fro a 100 amp one. They tell me that you will save on electric is this right?

I am changing my wiring to 12-3 and this will make things ran cooler also. I am a believer in this.


If you have any suggestions to make thing more efferent please help me.

Make sure those CFL lamps are of the Dimmable type.

AllanJ 02-25-2012 08:13 AM

Alternative you could use an "even lighting" approach.

I would say that ten lights, two rows of five, would be enough for general lighting.

About 3 feet from the walls, about six feet between lights.

Add extra lights here and there for accent or for work areas.

If the ceiling is high enough, track lighting would be better than can lights for work areas since you can move these around for a changing decor much more easily.

jbfan 02-25-2012 01:57 PM

You are not going to save electricity by changing to a 200 amp service, nor will using 12/3 cause things to run "cooler"

nhoj 02-25-2012 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbfan (Post 862955)
You are not going to save electricity by changing to a 200 amp service, nor will using 12/3 cause things to run "cooler"


By going to a 200 amp. flues box what are my out come from the old 100 amp. flues box?

There has to be a better out come of going to 12-3 wire in today's world of electrics isn't there?

nhoj 02-25-2012 02:21 PM

Is there a formula to use in setting can lighting?

How far apart they should go. Remember I have 6 inch cans.

Jim Port 02-25-2012 02:39 PM

Recessed light spacing is influenced by mounting height, work surface height, trim style, bulb type and beam spread. Look at the graphic posted by Tarheel for an idea.

The use of the lighting will also have an effect. Task light spacing would be different than for general lighting.

nhoj 02-25-2012 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Port (Post 862988)
Recessed light spacing is influenced by mounting height, work surface height, trim style, bulb type and beam spread. Look at the graphic posted by Tarheel for an idea.

The use of the lighting will also have an effect. Task light spacing would be different than for general lighting.

I would use it as general lighting.

Task lighting would be lighting where you do your work right? Or is this a different type of lighting than can lights?

SD515 02-25-2012 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhoj (Post 862642)
I also plan to go to a 200 amp. flues box fro a 100 amp one.

What's a "flues box"? Do you mean fuse box? Or probably more appropriate, a breaker panel?

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhoj (Post 862642)
They tell me that you will save on electric is this right?

Nope. A watt is a watt, and is what you pay for. Using equipment that uses less watts is where savings come from, not the size of your service. A 200A panel will only give you more ampacity for use in the house (more circuits or larger equipment typically).

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhoj (Post 862642)
I am changing my wiring to 12-3 and this will make things ran cooler also. I am a believer in this.

You can believe it if you wish, but it's not true. If it were true, most every house would have 12ga instead of 14ga, and 14ga would be a rare thing to find.

nhoj 02-25-2012 03:23 PM

What are the new homes using today 100 amp. or 200 amp. breaker panel?

I do agree with you, I also feel comfortable 12-3.

Dierte 02-25-2012 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhoj
What are the new homes using today 100 amp. or 200 amp. breaker panel?

I do agree with you, I also feel comfortable 12-3.

Depends on the load calculation. Also why are you so fixed on 12/3?

SD515 02-25-2012 03:34 PM

Most homes in my area are getting 200A services installed. But most homes in my area never get a load calculation done. They just throw in a 200. If they did do a calculation, most homes would only require 150A, with some only needing 125A or even 100A. One of those things that bigger is better…gotta out do the Jones.

IMO, 12ga wiring is a waste of money when not needed, but do as you wish.

TarheelTerp 02-25-2012 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhoj (Post 863020)
...I also feel comfortable 12-3.

1) aside from a 3 way switch (do you have any?)...
you won't need or be better served with 3wire of whatever gauge
2) you'll find that 14/2 is MUCH easier to work with.

If you're bound and determined to spend money...
buy an extra AFCI breaker and split your load.

@75W per (super cheap cans with Par 30?)... still allows you 19 fixtures on a 15A circuit.

Jim Port 02-25-2012 03:51 PM

Perhaps the OP has ungrounded wiring and is thinking the 12-3 will provide a ground?


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