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Old 02-05-2011, 10:05 AM   #16
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Kitchen Wiring Requirements


I have been running it this way for ever-- no inspector has ever given me any grief and yes I know what it says in the book for codes . It is funny that even in electrical the code book is still ass backwards. The unions have corrupt the system were I am at. Speedy pete have you ever checked to see how much stuff in a kitchen pull? Grab your amp meter and go see for yourself.

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Old 02-05-2011, 10:58 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by proremodel View Post
I have been running it this way for ever-- no inspector has ever given me any grief and yes I know what it says in the book for codes . It is funny that even in electrical the code book is still ass backwards. The unions have corrupt the system were I am at. Speedy pete have you ever checked to see how much stuff in a kitchen pull? Grab your amp meter and go see for yourself.
Speedy is correct, you are wrong. Just because you get by doing it your way doesn't make it right. I've seen plenty of hack jobs that "work". If you want to help people tell them how to do it right not just how it satisfies your way of doing it.
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Old 02-05-2011, 11:18 AM   #18
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brric, proremodel is one of those "We do it ALL" contractors. That means he knows everything about the multitude of trades he covers. Just look at all his posts in nearly every category.

I make pretty good money going in and cleaning up after guys like this.
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Old 02-05-2011, 11:43 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Speedy Petey View Post
brric, proremodel is one of those "We do it ALL" contractors. That means he knows everything about the multitude of trades he covers. Just look at all his posts in nearly every category.

I make pretty good money going in and cleaning up after guys like this.
I agree. The shame is what he does to the clients before they get it done correctly.
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Old 02-05-2011, 03:11 PM   #20
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DW/Disposal can run on a 12/3 sharing the neutral if you wanted...use a tandem breaker.
I think you meant a double pole breaker not a tandem.
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Old 02-05-2011, 03:17 PM   #21
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I think you meant a double pole breaker not a tandem.
Let's not forget, RST resurrected this thread with a new question. Your reply is to a post make well over two years ago.
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Old 02-05-2011, 03:19 PM   #22
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My bad, I was wondering why it has almost 2,000 views 1325 not 2,000

Last edited by wirenut1110; 02-05-2011 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 02-05-2011, 03:59 PM   #23
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I use a min of 7 circuits in a kitchen.
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Old 02-06-2011, 12:30 AM   #24
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I already said speedy pete is correct geeze. No I do have my GC license in CA and my Electrical License and framing license there too thanks. So no you don't come in and fix my work thanks. I was merely giving my opinion on the matter. We all know electrical pretty damn well. Yes you guys have years of experience on me agreed. It is more funny when you sit back and at the end of day you want to see what things actually pull for power. ( Yes I have had some free time). I understand the book is written to protect (EVERY) appliance out there but things are not being made the same way they used too. Things take far less amps then they even did 5 years ago let alone 10-20 years ago. I know I know since I am a younger guy you all see me as a snot nose kid that is fine. I do not always put under cab lights with the fridge but when the lights are LED that pull .10 of a amp when running and a fridge pulls 3-5 amps yea you do the math. It is also funny when I run into different inspectors and how they all add there input into the matter instead of running it by the code. So who is really wrong?
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:00 AM   #25
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Working on planning wiring in my kitchen and this thread is great! I have a related question. I have a trash compactor. The manual says to use a separate circuit, but the plate on the compactor says it draws something like 6 or 7 Amps. Right now it's combined with the built in microwave/range hood. Could I leave it like that? Could I combine it with the fridge instead (20A circuit)? Does it actually need a separate circuit?

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FWIW, I read some more and realized that the section of counter that the trash compactor is mounted under had no receptacles at all. So I decided to add a new receptacle to that area.

Then I ran two new 20A circuits. One serves the microwave/range hood and nothing else. The other serves two receptacles - one is behind the fridge, and the other above the counter that is above the trash compactor. Now the trash compactor plugs in there. I guess that circuit is technically a SABC.

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