Kitchen switch wiring question
Glad I found this place!
I've researched for 2 hours about this issue and I'm still not 100% sure of what I need to do.
I hope this can not only help me but other people who found themselves in the same situation.
First, what the layout shows:
I have a GFCI that's being fed power from the main power source, the breaker box.
I want to put a switch next to it.
I have a double plug receptacle 5 feet away hidden inside the sink cabinet.
What I want to do is have the switch next to the GFCI control one of the outlets on the plug receptacle and the other outlet be supplied power permanently.
I have already removed the metal tabs on both sides of the double plug receptacle to individualize each outlet.
Where I'm stuck at is on what type of switch I need to get. The layout I made shows a "three way plug". I don't know if this is necessary or a regular(two way plug?) would do just fine.
And I also would like to know how would the switch be wired from the GFCI and to the hidden receptacle.
I made the layout as simple as possible but if I'm mistaken advise me how to correct it.
The layout shows abbreviated terms for any of the specialists to explain the correct wiring configuration.
Just punch in the configuration and I will modify the image as we go along.
The final product should be of reference for people who are found in the same situation.
If you need any other information just ask away!
You dont need a 3-way switch. All you need is a single pole switch. You did not need to remove the tab on the neutral side of the duplex. You will either have to purchase a new duplex or pigtail the neutral to each terminal. The diagram below assumes the neutral tab has not been broken.
In the diagram below,
the switch controls the upper part of the duplex receptacle
the lower part of the duplex receptacle is always HOT
the GFCI is always HOT
No ground wires shown for ease of drawing
the light gray colored epresents the neutrals
The duplex receptacle is not GFCI protected because you did not state that you wanted it to be.
Do you want the entire duplex to be ground fault protected, both hot and switched?
1. You can't use power from the counter receptacle for the new receptacle in the cabinet. Counter receptacles are only allowed to serve the counter by code.
2. You should not have removed the tab on the silver side. Only the hot (gold screws) need the tab removed for this application.
Now tell us where you are getting power and how you want the cable routed. The power can go to the switch first or the receptacle. You will need a three wire cable + grd between the switch and the receptacle.
..... NM...not worth the argument, lol
Special thanks to Hammerlane for the drawing.
Very easy to understand.
I might redraw it a little bit cleaner though.
Al_smelter: No, I don't need it to be like that.
Seems like that solves it for now.
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