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Old 07-23-2013, 12:24 PM   #16
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I have electrical contractor friends who work in the northern burbs - they do everything in conduit, if it's required or not. It's simpler for them to do things one way than 2 different ways, and also eliminates any "mistake" of using romex in a conduit-required area. Once you get on the fringes of Chicagoland, it becomes hit or miss with what is required.

Whether or not it's "better" can be debated. It does allow more future flexibility, however. I am not in conduitland, but conduit is probably still used in about 30% of the new houses here, mostly for the same reason as above - it's what certain contractors are used-to.

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Old 07-23-2013, 05:54 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by caveeagle View Post
I am in unicorporated St Charles... I have personally seen homes near me that appear to be built out with Romex, so I am pretty sure its ok.

My Neighbor is a GC... he said you don't 'have to' wire in EMT, but 'its better, and thats how I do it' etc....
And it's all well and good to make that (far more expensive) choice. The question we were looking for is what the CODE allows/requires... and it appears that romex is allowed.

Not to beat a dead horse or anything (we wouldn't do that around here... would we?)... but if you're doing the kitchen circuit wiring yourself...
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Old 07-23-2013, 08:00 PM   #18
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ok, he wants to use emt, so be it.

post pics of your issues. it will make it easier for us to help you.
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:33 AM   #19
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The biggest reason to use EMT vs NM in this instance is you mentioned you will want to be selling this house in 2-4 years. I can see an HI going through and noticing the NM and putting it in his report. Then a buyer starts questioning things. Anything you can do when selling a house to remove buyer questions is a good thing.
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:59 AM   #20
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I can see an HI going through and noticing the NM and putting it in his report. Then a buyer starts questioning things. Anything you can do when selling a house to remove buyer questions is a good thing.
BINGO!

In my experience, home inspectors are not very knowledgable about specific codes. They just document everything thats does not 'look right' and it becomes a headache for the seller, buyer and relo company.

I need to avoid this.

so, one of my original questions: If I need to use flexible FMC (3/8 or 1/2") of >6' run to get through some difficult framing, can I just run a grounding wire (green) between the junctions to maintain a good ground?
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Old 07-27-2013, 12:45 PM   #21
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Here are two pics of the the power runs I am trying to re-route.
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Old 08-03-2013, 02:21 PM   #22
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Just an update on the project.

I have all the cabinets out (but the sink) and have nearly all the drywall and flooring out.

Plumber will be here on Monday to help move the gas line, water supply to the upstairs laundery and the vent-stacks that are in the way.

I made a lot of progress this week:

>I ordered my 12v LED cabinet lighting set as well, so I will be ready to get the wires well hidden while putting in the cabinets.
>Got the rest of the old wood floor removed, and some of the carpet.
>Solved the lighting circuits for the 3-way that runs the sink/island pendants.
>ran the 120v switched outlets for the cabinet lights. (4 separate top cabinet sections prevented 1 continuous run of 12v)
>installed temporarry lights to help out while we wait for the dry-wall.
**blue tape on floor is where the new island will go.

I am starting to feel pretty good about this. I have solved nearly all the 'tough' issues that were stressing me out.
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Last edited by caveeagle; 08-03-2013 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 09-13-2013, 11:03 PM   #23
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We ended up doing the dry-wall ourselves. I had calls out to 2 different dry-wall installers, but neither responded within 5 days, so we just decided to handle it ourselves. I have done dry wall before, I just was hoping to avoid this phase of the job.

Anyway, we have all the dry wall up and taped. I have a little sanding left to do, but hope to be spraying up some primer/sealer tomorrow.

I still have to decide whether to roll, spray, or spray and back-roll the primer. I have a nice airless sprayer on hand, so I would like to take advantage of that if it makes sense.

I spent the last hr reading old threads on the back-roll debate. Now I am just left confused as ever on this question.

The one thing I have learned is the need to 'dust' all the loose compound off the bare dry-wall. I am sure that will not help the primer stick!!
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Old 09-14-2013, 06:57 AM   #24
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Spraying will not build up the 'orange peal' texture that you need to match the old ,existing, work--so roll it.

If you do spray, back roll to add the orange peal--

A quick light sanding is always recommended after priming ----some dust or fuzzy fibers will be stuck in the primer---that's the nature of new work---
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:33 AM   #25
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We have made a lot of progress since my last post. We have the cabinets and granite installed. Last weekend I installed all the LED cabinet lighting. (turned out really nice)

We just have some molding and details left to finnish.

Here is how it looks now...
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:34 AM   #26
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Looks good, where's the island receptacle?
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Old 12-08-2013, 11:04 AM   #27
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Looks good, where's the island receptacle?
I have one GFI outlet on the far side of the island, just across from the stove.

I ended up running three separate power circuits to the island. The outlet, a dedicated run for the beverage cooler (you can just see it on the right. And, there is an under-counter nook for the microwave on the left side, thats not visible.

I did have an electrical contractor stop by and checked out all my work. So I feel pretty confident that I am ok from a code/safety standpoint.
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Old 12-08-2013, 12:42 PM   #28
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looks real nice
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Old 12-08-2013, 12:44 PM   #29
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hey, i see you have a single bowl sink. we have the same. gotta love em !
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Old 12-08-2013, 01:06 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Fix'n it View Post
hey, i see you have a single bowl sink. we have the same. gotta love em !
Yea, its pretty huge! You can fit larger pans in there to clean them. And, if you really need a separate rinse or soak sink, we have a small rubbermaid bin we keep under the sink. You can set it inside the main sink and still have plenty of room for other stuff!! So far, I see no downside to it!

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