Just got started

ryan50hrl

AHHHH.....now i'm going to have a complex about an ugly panel....

DangerMouse

DM

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to see some of my original magic tricks and trick boxes!

ddawg16

If it makes you feel any better.....been there....

BTW....a little suggestion.....

Use a black permanent marker and write on the sheath what the run is for. 2 Years from now when you open the panel back up....you will be glad you did it.

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ryan50hrl

I've fired up my wifes P-Touch label maker and am going to identify them....

J. V.

The MLO panel is compliant in the the structure. No main required.
OP. Jim is talking about aesthetics regarding the cable on the right. Leave it like it is, and its DIY. Re-route it and it will look more professional.

kbsparky

Open knockout on top right side. You need to plug that hole up.

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stickboy1375

I'll give you an uplifting opinion, Although myself I would cut the insulation back, the panel looks decent, and as already stated, re identify the white conductor on the breaker, (because obviously nobody in intelligent to realize that it is a "HOT" conductor) anyway...

Buy yourself a set of these for stripping the jacket off NM cable...

ryan50hrl

I've got a set......i just need to strip it back further....

stickboy1375

Doesn't look like you used them. lol

ryan50hrl

Nope.....sure didn't........but that doesn't mean i don't have a set!!!!!




They just might be the same place as my needle nose pliers right now.....

stickboy1375

No biggy, just trying to make your life easier.

kontoose

Where's the feeders...? They usually go in first, so that they're tucked away at the back, out of the way.

(Apart from the above mentioned issues such as the missing K.O. seal - which I feel you left out as a red-herring - and the 14/2 using the neutral as a hot...and the sheathing being too long (i.e., "all conductors, shall be identified within three inches of entering, or exiting enclosures").

Your panel wiring is inconsistent, i.e., different lengths of stripped conductors; some conductors protrude out of the back side of the neutral bus, others don't. (It would be uncertain if you had tied down a conductor partly over the insulation).

All finished screws (i.e., screws that have been terminated over the conductor) need to be left with their slots in the horizontal plane, and if they're Phillips, the the "+" needs to be left as shown...otherwise, how would you know - to within a slim percentage of error - whether or not the conductor has been properly terminated at it designated torque...?

(None of you have worked government - right). Mind you, for a beginner, the panel's wiring sloppiness is...what it is. Good try, though...but call your electrician buddy to check over the work please. I don't want to see you on News At 10...

hammerlane

Your's looks better than this:

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hammerlane

But not better than this:

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stickboy1375

Although nice, it looks expensive, and not everyone can afford art work.