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Old 06-12-2014, 11:20 PM   #1
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Junction splicing


I finally hooked up the motion light I installed like a month ago. What I did was splice into the wiring for the garage and run the wire. Does it look fine, im no professional. I connected all 3 white wires together, all 3 black together, then all 3 grounds together. I did not pre-twist the wires, I've seen there is a lot of talk about pre-twisting or not.

I know I should of cut back the sheathing a little bit but didnt.

How does it look?

The yellow wire coming out of the bottom goes to the motion light.


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Old 06-12-2014, 11:39 PM   #2
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Well.... You do need some romex clamps on your box....

I know you need 1/4" cable sheathing beyond your connection, I don't know if you can have too much.....

you need/should have 6" of each wire avaiable in the box....

can't really tell how tight the wire nuts are made up (usually you see the individual wire start to twist together outside the wire nut....

can't tell if you have stapled/secured your romex to the framing......

But , the wires are connected correctly, box fill and wirenut sizing look fine.

Best

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Old 06-12-2014, 11:39 PM   #3
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Sheathing should have been stripped back 6".
No more then about 1/2" of sheathing inside the box.
Wire needs to be stapled within 6" of the box.
You can not just stick the wires in a hole in the box like that, need a strain relief.

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Old 06-13-2014, 09:21 AM   #4
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Looks like a hack-job extraordinaire. You asked.

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Old 06-13-2014, 10:07 AM   #5
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Looks like a hack-job extraordinaire. You asked.

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Bussman.... Has found an honest polite way of saying it.....
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:11 AM   #6
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Just plain dumb curiosity..... I know practice... just not the NEC paragraph by tedious paragraph...

Is there a code provision as to excess sheathing in a box??? (Never thought about it before)

TIA...
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:20 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by MTN REMODEL LLC View Post
Just plain dumb curiosity..... I know practice... just not the NEC paragraph by tedious paragraph...

Is there a code provision as to excess sheathing in a box??? (Never thought about it before)

TIA...
There is no limit to the amount of sheathing. A minimum of 1/4" is required. Depending on how you interpret "6 inches of free conductor", that could be taken to mean 6" past the sheathing, but that would not limit the amount of sheathing, just the amount of wire sticking out of it.

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Old 06-13-2014, 01:45 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by cincinnati guy View Post
I did not pre-twist the wires, I've seen there is a lot of talk about pre-twisting or not.
Always splice (twist) together. Some may say no, but it sucks trouble shooting because a connection is loose because the wires are coming apart.
OR the wire nut didn't go on all the way tight, just loosens and the splice falls apart.

It's particularly lovely when you open up a "metal" junction (splice) box and the wire nut falls off and conductors come apart.

The ONLY time to let the wire nut do the work is on small fixture/ballast size wires.
Those wires tend to break off if you twist splice then wirenut tight.

(little trick I figured out many moons ago, you might be aware of the way if you do let the wire nut do the work on lets say a #14 to a ballast wire splice. sometimes the smaller wire will just roll around the other wire and the wire nut and small wire just comes off.

Well

As if you splice two wires together and then take them apart, the wires look like a cork screw.

The next time you splice, to the larger wire (like the 14) with your pliers, make a few little bends to the wire to simulate that spliced conductor look.
Now put your smaller wire together tip to tip or finger the smaller wire around the bent wire and let the wire nut do the work.

I had a job installing many fluorescents. This roll of thing was killing me.
Thought about it and did the bend technique. Been doing it for years now.

Just sharing.)

Last edited by ritelec; 06-13-2014 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 06-13-2014, 04:00 PM   #9
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Junction splicing


Sorry Cinci Guy, but it does look terrible. Please heed the advice you are getting here.

-MUST have connectors on the cable.
-MUST have at least 6" of free wire in the box.
-MUST have at least 1/4" of sheathing inside the box. There is no maximum on sheathing, but 1/2" is typical.
-Pre-twisting is not mandatory, but for DIYers I'd say it is, ESPECIALLY with #12. There is NO way those wires are effectively spliced at this point.
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Answers based on the 2008 & 2011 NEC.
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Old 06-14-2014, 06:13 AM   #10
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Junction splicing


Thanks guys! I am no professional electrician. This is why I asked on the site how it looked. I will try to make it better today. Im not sure how I can make the 6" inside the box though because it was an existing wire I tapped into for power, as there was not that much slack in the wire. I will most defiantly make it better I am still learning, and will do whats needed to make it right!
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Old 06-14-2014, 06:21 AM   #11
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If it works as is, I would just add wire staples within six inches of the box and leave it. Take the good advice given here and use it for your next project. Ron
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:16 AM   #12
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The normal when a cable is cut for a tap is to add two junction boxes with a short cable between so you have enough to work with.
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:39 AM   #13
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If it works as is, I would just add wire staples within six inches of the box and leave it. Take the good advice given here and use it for your next project. Ron
Not the right type of opening in the box.
That opening needs a connector.

also, I believe although you said 6 " for strap(staple) and are right it's within 8"

12" if you use a connector.
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:17 PM   #14
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Junction splicing


Made a Lowes Trip. I know it still is far from professional looking!







The finished product
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:28 PM   #15
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Junction splicing


Much better.

sorry, just open them one more time.
bring a bare conductor from the ground screw.
put all the grounds together with a wire nut

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