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Junction boxes for garage T8 fixtures

24K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  specgrade 
#1 · (Edited)
I purchased eight T8 fluorescent fixtures from Home Depot to install in my garage. They house two 4' bulbs. I asked their "certified electrician" the best way to install them and he said to run the 14/2 wires in the ceiling INTO the fixture, wire nut them up, and then parallel to the next. I said, "Don't you need to use a junction box in the ceiling?" and he said no. I asked him if he was sure, and he said he was positive.

So, I check the net just now and sure enough, to install them to code I need to use junction boxes. Bravo, Home Depot! Here's my question. I have the lighting layout all figured out (small 20x24 garage) and I know the holes aren't going to line up right next to a ceiling joist for the junction box to attach to. I found a picture with a bar hanger bracket that I'm thinking I'm going to need to get this job done:



This is what I need, right? My plan is to hang the lights, then drill a very small (like 1/4 inch diameter) hole through the drywall to run the very small light wires into the ceiling. Then, I'll pull the 14/2 wires into the junction box with the lighting wires, wire nut them up, then finally attach the junction box last. I want to avoid cutting huge holes of drywall for the junction boxes and this would make installation much easier for me. Is it ok to not cut a hole the size of the junction box, only big enough for the lighting wires to be fed up into the ceiling? I don't see why not, but I always like to check before I do anything.

Thanks in advance!
 
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#2 ·
Unless it is specifically prohibited in your jurisdiction, the Home Depot guy was right. You can run the wire directly into the light fixture, then on to the next one. Be sure to use a connector and you are good to go. We usually just stub the wire out with a loop of cable when the drywall is installed. Make sure the drywallers don't bury it.
 
#4 ·
SP., If the OP did use the NM-B then it will have 90°C rated conductors in there but if using the older one like NM { with out B letter in there } then it is a 60°C rated conductors. That will raise new issue there. The only way you can slove is run short run of NM-B or the OP did stated he start to wire up the place so with new wires it pretty much MB-B for sure. That is not a issue at all. But check with local code some may have additional requirement. Merci,Marc
 
#5 ·
I'll post a link to the lights I purchased at the end. The way the lights work is you take the reflector off and then you can see the two bulbs (duh!). The ballast is on one end and the wires are in the middle, between the bulbs. If I were to bring the wires into the light fixture the wire nuts and wires would likely be touching the bulbs, unless I electrical tape them to the top, but I'm not sure if that would hold with the very cold winters we have. Just wanted to throw that out there for you! :thumbsup:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...n.endeca.EndecaDataBean@260c0a10&ddkey=Search
 
#6 · (Edited)
Normally there is a cover plate for the ballast area where the splices are made. Sounds like you might be missing parts.

If you were to install the junction boxes you need access to the whole face of the box. Yes that means a 4" hole in the back of the fixture over the box. The method posted by the OP is not correct.
 
#7 ·
Normally there is a cover plate for the ballast area where the splices are made. Sounds like you might be missing parts.

If you were to install the junction boxes you need access to the whole facwe of the box. Yes that means a 4" hole in the back of the fixture over the box. The method posted by the OP is not correct.
The instructions show the need for a junction box and don't show any sort of cover plate for the wires.

I was afraid I would have to cut a full 4" hole in the ceiling. Not like it really matters as it will be covered by the lighting fixture, but I just thought this would be a relatively simple install after talking to the Home Depot "expert". :no:
 
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