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Old 09-13-2012, 01:02 PM   #1
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Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??


I'm installing flush mounted lights to my pergola posts and have run into a problem. If I install the lights to a standard gang box, the lights will have a big gap between the rear of the light and the post. Is there a code approved way to connect the 1/2" sch 40 directly to the light so I can avoid using a gang box? If not, are there "low profile" gang boxes that will minimize the gap so it won't look as stupid? Thanks for your help.

I pasted a picture of the light I'm installing. If the pasted picture isn't viewable, I attached a link to see the light.

http://www.lightingshowplace.com/cra...ction/p1024088

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Old 09-13-2012, 01:14 PM   #2
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Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??


It would probably rock in a slight breeze.
Could you build the post out to the light?

Sorry, to answer your question, I don't believe so, and don't know of any low profile boxes that would help with my first statement.

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Old 09-13-2012, 01:30 PM   #3
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Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??


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It would probably rock in a slight breeze.
Could you build the post out to the light?

Sorry, to answer your question, I don't believe so, and don't know of any low profile boxes that would help with my first statement.
If I have to use a standard gang, my backup plan is to frame the gap with 2" slats to enclose the gang. This would look okay, but not ideal if they end up being head knockers.
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Old 09-13-2012, 01:36 PM   #4
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Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??


Use a 1/2" pancake box and recess (with a router) into the beam. You could use a hammer and chisel if you do not have a router.
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Old 09-13-2012, 01:48 PM   #5
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Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??


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Use a 1/2" pancake box and recess (with a router) into the beam. You could use a hammer and chisel if you do not have a router.
rjniles - I'm not sure I follow you. Are you saying to router a slot in the beam for the conduit so it'll be flush and behind the light. Then connect the thwn to the light straight from the end of the conduit?
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:34 PM   #6
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Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??


Recess one of these into the beam:



Bring the cable or conduit in from the other side of the beam.
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Old 09-13-2012, 03:15 PM   #7
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Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??


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Recess one of these into the beam:



Bring the cable or conduit in from the other side of the beam.
So if I come in from the other side, do I have to run conduit through the post or can I stop the conduit at the LB and run THWN through the post to the other side?
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:26 PM   #8
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Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??


You need to bring the conduit into the box. Install a LB on the other side of the post, come thru with a short length of conduit to a male adapter. Connect the male adapter to the box with a lock nut.
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Last edited by rjniles; 09-13-2012 at 04:42 PM.
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:33 PM   #9
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Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??


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You need to bring the conduit into the box. Install a LB on the other side of the post, come thru with a short length of conduit to a male adapter. Connect the male adapter top the box with a lock nut.
One issue that should be addressed is if you use a pancake box get one with multiple 1/2" knock-outs and DON'T use the center one because a lot of fixtures have I plate that goes across the box and will damage the wires.
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:41 PM   #10
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Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??


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One issue that should be addressed is if you use a pancake box get one with multiple 1/2" knock-outs and DON'T use the center one because a lot of fixtures have I plate that goes across the box and will damage the wires.
Thanks for pointing that out. That image with just the center KO was one I found on a quick search but I always use the ones with multiple KOs. The OP could also use a deeper box if he wants to (or can) rout a deeper hole in the post.

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Old 09-13-2012, 04:53 PM   #11
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Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??


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One issue that should be addressed is if you use a pancake box get one with multiple 1/2" knock-outs and DON'T use the center one because a lot of fixtures have I plate that goes across the box and will damage the wires.
That's great info to know! Thanks for the tip.
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:12 AM   #12
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Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??


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You need to bring the conduit into the box. Install a LB on the other side of the post, come thru with a short length of conduit to a male adapter. Connect the male adapter to the box with a lock nut.
If I put 1/2" conduit in the 6" x 6" post, I'll have to drill a 7/8" hole. That's doable, but I would prefer to just run cable through a much smaller hole. Is it code to run UF cable between the LB and the fixture?
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:37 AM   #13
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Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??


You can do that, but you will need the hole big enough for the LB to be able to sit flush, and the need a hole big enough on the box side for the clamp to enter so the box sits flush and flat.
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:52 AM   #14
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Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??


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You can do that, but you will need the hole big enough for the LB to be able to sit flush, and the need a hole big enough on the box side for the clamp to enter so the box sits flush and flat.
No problem, I'll use a spade bit for the short hole for the LB to sit flush on one side of the post. One the other side of the post, I'm not using a gang, but a pancake instead. Can I just run the cable through a knockout hole and into the fixture without any clamps?
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Old 09-19-2012, 01:15 PM   #15
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Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??


Quote:
Originally Posted by rjniles View Post
Recess one of these into the beam:



Bring the cable or conduit in from the other side of the beam.
The box shown has two internal clamps. I'd use one and remove the other one to maximize space in the box.

Does the light you are using have a complete metal backplate ?
If not, you are going to have open gaps on each side of your post (from the backside).

Have you considered how you will close the gaps ?

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