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-   -   Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box?? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/installing-wall-mounted-light-without-gang-box-156705/)

blue sky 09-13-2012 01:02 PM

Installing a wall mounted light without a gang box??
 
I'm installing flush mounted lights to my pergola posts and have run into a problem. If I install the lights to a standard gang box, the lights will have a big gap between the rear of the light and the post. Is there a code approved way to connect the 1/2" sch 40 directly to the light so I can avoid using a gang box? If not, are there "low profile" gang boxes that will minimize the gap so it won't look as stupid? Thanks for your help.

I pasted a picture of the light I'm installing. If the pasted picture isn't viewable, I attached a link to see the light.

http://www.lightingshowplace.com/cra...ction/p1024088

Gac66610 09-13-2012 01:14 PM

It would probably rock in a slight breeze.
Could you build the post out to the light?

Sorry, to answer your question, I don't believe so, and don't know of any low profile boxes that would help with my first statement.

blue sky 09-13-2012 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gac66610 (Post 1009136)
It would probably rock in a slight breeze.
Could you build the post out to the light?

Sorry, to answer your question, I don't believe so, and don't know of any low profile boxes that would help with my first statement.

If I have to use a standard gang, my backup plan is to frame the gap with 2" slats to enclose the gang. This would look okay, but not ideal if they end up being head knockers.

rjniles 09-13-2012 01:36 PM

Use a 1/2" pancake box and recess (with a router) into the beam. You could use a hammer and chisel if you do not have a router.

blue sky 09-13-2012 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjniles (Post 1009147)
Use a 1/2" pancake box and recess (with a router) into the beam. You could use a hammer and chisel if you do not have a router.

rjniles - I'm not sure I follow you. Are you saying to router a slot in the beam for the conduit so it'll be flush and behind the light. Then connect the thwn to the light straight from the end of the conduit?

rjniles 09-13-2012 02:34 PM

Recess one of these into the beam:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...051f41_300.jpg

Bring the cable or conduit in from the other side of the beam.

blue sky 09-13-2012 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjniles (Post 1009189)
Recess one of these into the beam:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...051f41_300.jpg

Bring the cable or conduit in from the other side of the beam.

So if I come in from the other side, do I have to run conduit through the post or can I stop the conduit at the LB and run THWN through the post to the other side?

rjniles 09-13-2012 04:26 PM

You need to bring the conduit into the box. Install a LB on the other side of the post, come thru with a short length of conduit to a male adapter. Connect the male adapter to the box with a lock nut.

Julius793 09-13-2012 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjniles (Post 1009269)
You need to bring the conduit into the box. Install a LB on the other side of the post, come thru with a short length of conduit to a male adapter. Connect the male adapter top the box with a lock nut.

One issue that should be addressed is if you use a pancake box get one with multiple 1/2" knock-outs and DON'T use the center one because a lot of fixtures have I plate that goes across the box and will damage the wires.

rjniles 09-13-2012 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Julius793 (Post 1009278)
One issue that should be addressed is if you use a pancake box get one with multiple 1/2" knock-outs and DON'T use the center one because a lot of fixtures have I plate that goes across the box and will damage the wires.

Thanks for pointing that out. That image with just the center KO was one I found on a quick search but I always use the ones with multiple KOs. The OP could also use a deeper box if he wants to (or can) rout a deeper hole in the post.

http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/312/31291_300.jpg

blue sky 09-13-2012 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Julius793 (Post 1009278)
One issue that should be addressed is if you use a pancake box get one with multiple 1/2" knock-outs and DON'T use the center one because a lot of fixtures have I plate that goes across the box and will damage the wires.

That's great info to know! Thanks for the tip.

blue sky 09-19-2012 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjniles (Post 1009269)
You need to bring the conduit into the box. Install a LB on the other side of the post, come thru with a short length of conduit to a male adapter. Connect the male adapter to the box with a lock nut.

If I put 1/2" conduit in the 6" x 6" post, I'll have to drill a 7/8" hole. That's doable, but I would prefer to just run cable through a much smaller hole. Is it code to run UF cable between the LB and the fixture?

jbfan 09-19-2012 11:37 AM

You can do that, but you will need the hole big enough for the LB to be able to sit flush, and the need a hole big enough on the box side for the clamp to enter so the box sits flush and flat.

blue sky 09-19-2012 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbfan (Post 1013015)
You can do that, but you will need the hole big enough for the LB to be able to sit flush, and the need a hole big enough on the box side for the clamp to enter so the box sits flush and flat.

No problem, I'll use a spade bit for the short hole for the LB to sit flush on one side of the post. One the other side of the post, I'm not using a gang, but a pancake instead. Can I just run the cable through a knockout hole and into the fixture without any clamps?

Oso954 09-19-2012 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjniles (Post 1009189)
Recess one of these into the beam:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...051f41_300.jpg

Bring the cable or conduit in from the other side of the beam.

The box shown has two internal clamps. I'd use one and remove the other one to maximize space in the box.

Does the light you are using have a complete metal backplate ?
If not, you are going to have open gaps on each side of your post (from the backside).

Have you considered how you will close the gaps ?


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