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Old 03-18-2008, 03:17 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by HouseHelper View Post
Put a mark on the floor directly under the center of each can. Use a plumb bob to determine the exact point on the floor. After the drywall is tacked in place, use the mark on the floor and the plumb bob to find the center of the light. Make your cutout, then finish attaching the drywall sheet.
A laser level makes this even easier.
Plumb bob? I think you are all making this harder than it really is. Mark the center of the lights off of the closest wall or sheet of drywall. When the next sheet goes up, mark the sheet from that same mark.


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Old 03-18-2008, 03:37 PM   #17
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Stubbie hit the nail on the head recommending the Rotozip. I'd practice on scrap wallboard before you commit to cutting out the cans.

1. Just take measurements to the center of the can, then transfer those measurements to the wallboard after you have "tacked" it into position on the edges. Don't completely attach it just yet. There will be a slight bulge where the can is pressing against the board.

2. After you find the center of the can from your transfered measurements, slowly proceed with the rotozip to the outer edge of the can until you meet resistance. That's the edge of the can. Make sure you keep the bit perpendicular to the ceiling.

3. Remove the bit and reinsert it just to the other side of the edge of the can so that you're on the outside of the can.

4. Using the can as your guide, follow the edge around until you have cut a complete opening. The can should just pop right through the board at this point. Finish nailing or screwing the board to the ceiling.

As for other considerations: If this is to be an insulated ceiling, determine if your cans are IC (insulation contact) or NON-IC. If they are insulation contact, then insulation can be laid, or blown right over the fixture. However, if they are not, you will need to keep insulation away from them to prevent major heat build-up and a potential fire. To do this, I recommend that you build a simple box that will set around the fixture. Just leave it open at the top and free from insulation. OSB works well for this.
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Old 03-18-2008, 05:53 PM   #18
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Sounds like Petey needs a hug. The only reason I asked if there was some quicker way was from watching HGTV shows and I see the drywallers zipping around the cans perfectly and it doesn't look like they measure anything so they must find the can while the board is not fully attached. I think the plumb bob suggestion would work well too.
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Old 03-18-2008, 06:33 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by billybarty View Post
Sounds like Petey needs a hug.
Nah. I was hoping the humor would come through in my posts.
Sometimes I feel like if I answer any more questions it is like someone trying to climb over a fence to jump off a bridge and me giving them a boost.
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Old 03-18-2008, 06:58 PM   #20
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how do I determine where the lights are located so I can zip around them when the drywall is already up.

Uhhhh...Measuring tape?

It makes no sense to mark them on the floor and use a plumb bob. That's extra work. Cut the holes as you hang the sheets. Don't wait and try to cut all of the after. It is ONLY 2 measurements and you have plenty of slack with cans.

You SHOULD be asking this in the drywall area but since it's not rocket surgery, we can help you.

Measure the center of the cans, transfer the mark to the drywall, hang the drywall and rotozip the opening. Start with the opening inside the can then go gently around the outside of the drywall lip/ridge.

In the olden days they would measure, mark and cut the holes before hanging the rock.


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