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-   -   installing meter box, getting siding later (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/installing-meter-box-getting-siding-later-9468/)

johnny331 06-27-2007 07:54 PM

installing meter box, getting siding later
 
I have to install a new meter box/service drop. Right now the walls are just sheathing with housewrap ontop. I plan on getting vinyl siding soon but can't wait to get the power back.

The box of course has screw holes on the inside, but it will be locked out and live later, so I can't do it down the road.

How can I install it now and have the siding go nicely underneath later? I figure new houses have power before they are sided/finished, there has to be a way.

I have had an e.c. tell me you can just clamp the pole, and let the box itself float. That's how the last one was.

Clutchcargo 06-27-2007 08:51 PM

Screw a 5/4 Azek board about an 1" larger than the meter box to your house and then attach the meter box to that. When you do the siding, leave the board and meter as is and side right up to the 5/4 board.

Speedy Petey 06-27-2007 09:03 PM

An even easier method:

http://www.aifittings.com/k_1a.htm

http://www.aifittings.com/new_images/mm10-1.jpg

johnny331 06-27-2007 10:20 PM

so you wouldn't side under the box?

Where's that product available at locally?

Speedy Petey 06-27-2007 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnny331 (Post 50706)
so you wouldn't side under the box?

Vinyl??? Absolutely NOT!


Quote:

Originally Posted by johnny331 (Post 50706)
Where's that product available at locally?

I don't know. I'm not from Ohio.
I get mine at the electrical supply house. Arlington is a VERY popular line with some very innovative products. Most houses will carry them.

johnny331 06-29-2007 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Speedy Petey (Post 50714)
Vinyl??? Absolutely NOT!

Why do you say that? I've never seen a house that didn't have the box ontop of the existing siding?

I don't know if I'll be able to find that product before tomorrow when I want to finish this.

What's best for the vinyl siders later to make a finished look around the box? Should I mount it right on the wall and the siders can put some channeling/flashing around it? Should I mount it to a board?

What do you think about running 1" PVC piping, I know it's smaller but it fits my three 3-gauges fine. It did seem to stress the glue joints a bit though. If someone says the word I'll rip it out and do metal tomorrow, it isn't much piping.

Speedy Petey 06-29-2007 07:20 PM

I personally think meter boxes mounted right to lap vinyl siding is extremely cheesy, considering the options. And J-ing around the meter itself is that much worse...IMO.

If a pre-made block is not available I would, and always did in the past, mount some 5/4 PT boards under the meter pan so the siders can J around the wood blocking, NOT the meter pan itself.
I have also had the siders wrap the blocking in aluminum same as all the other trim. This gives an even cleaner look.

Clutchcargo 06-29-2007 09:30 PM

Can you put the meter box right on a pt block? I would think that since you can't use galv nails, your probably can't put the meter box on it either.

johnny331 06-29-2007 11:07 PM

what's 5/4 pt (pretreated?)...

What kind of spacing away from the house should we shoot for?

Speedy Petey 06-30-2007 07:26 AM

5/4 is the thickness. It's 1" nominal. That is what I would shoot for.

I use the "new" green or silver deck screws with PT (pressure treated). I've never had anyone tell me there is a problem mounting meters to PT. I do it ALL the time. What else could I build pedestals out of for an underground service?

AtlanticWBConst. 06-30-2007 09:58 AM

We fabricate "baseplates" out of Pre Primed 1 X stock or 1 X composite stock, or even 5/4 stock. Dependant on whether the electrican is required by the town/state to do the actual removal/re-install of the utility box, or not...we always do the baseplate work. We do this for all the areas that require some kind of additional "fitment" of an exterior fixture where lap siding won't align properly with the fixture(s) - (properly weather-sealed).
Sometimes, we may have to fabricate the baseplate, then cut it in half, then install the two halves from opposite directions - if it is not possible to easily have the fixture disconnected.

Examples:

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...T/DSC01658.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...T/DSC01661.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...T/DSC01654.jpg

bigMikeB 07-01-2007 08:34 AM

Nice looking job there Atlantic. I don't know why anyone wouod want plastic siding underneath a meter pan, causing it to float on a substrate that can't be screwed down snug without pinching off the expansion and contraction of the siding. Making it look like hell. The nature of vinyl siding is to freely move on the nails it is "hung" on. I have used both 5/4 PT lumber and composite decking material under pans. I think wood covered in aluminum could be a future issue if any moisture wicks into the wood. Never seen the premade bases for meter pans before, they look like a great item.

AtlanticWBConst. 07-01-2007 08:38 AM

Yeah,
If it was a Vinyl siding install, we would opt for composite, or wrap PP 1 x with aluminum (With the whole aluminum base sealed up good & tight with silicone)...


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