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Old 04-05-2012, 08:23 PM   #31
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation


Thanks for all the replies guys.

Yea, audiophiles are known for doing overkill, though I have my limits (Monoprice is were I buy all my cables from). This is the first time I am ever really going overboard so bear with me

Attached are pictures of the AC unit panel and cord if it helps at all
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation-img_8609.jpg   Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation-img_7202.jpg  

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Old 04-05-2012, 08:26 PM   #32
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation


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Originally Posted by M3 Pete View Post

You know, since you have that big room now, one of these would solve all your problems. Only need 1000 watt amp, and if it ain't loud enough, you are simply deaf (or will be soon!)
http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/pdf/D...ec%20sheet.pdf
lol. Well the reason why I am doing all of this is because I picked up this Paradigm Sub 25 for $400 out of pocket. No joke.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:28 PM   #33
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation


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Install a 20A/20A quad breaker in place of two of the 20A single pole breakers. Use the double pole portion of the quad for a dedicated 240V 20A recept for the subwoofer, and place the original 20A circuits on the separate 20A poles of the new quad breaker.
Would you be able to link me to a product page of the appropriate breaker for my box?

Sorry for being so needy......
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:30 PM   #34
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation


Is there a nameplate like that on the sub-woofer? Can you get a picture of that?
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:46 PM   #35
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation


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Is there a nameplate like that on the sub-woofer? Can you get a picture of that?
No nameplate, just what was discussed earlier about the "100w typical" rating.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:49 PM   #36
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation


We still don't know if your sub panel accepts tandem breakers.

Can you take a picture of the whole label inside the panel cover (the whole sticker shown in post #22 second picture)?
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Old 04-05-2012, 09:58 PM   #37
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation


What kind of speaker wire are you using?


Your answer will determine the next response.
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:27 PM   #38
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation


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What kind of speaker wire are you using?


Your answer will determine the next response.
12awg

???
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:37 PM   #39
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation


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12awg

???
What brand?
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:40 PM   #40
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation


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What brand?
Monoprice
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:44 PM   #41
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation


You're useing 12awg wire from your amp to the sub-woofer?
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:56 PM   #42
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation


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You're useing 12awg wire from your amp to the sub-woofer?
If your referring to the subwoofer connection from my receiver to the subwoofer it's a Monoprice RG6 cable.

If by amp you mean the actual amplifier powering the subwoofer, the amp is built internally inside the subwoofer.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:24 PM   #43
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation


Attached are the remaining pictures of the breaker box. Hopefully this will help determine if I can use a quad-breaker(s)
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation-img_8024.jpg   Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation-img_8335.jpg  

Last edited by BigCoolJesus; 04-05-2012 at 11:59 PM.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:28 PM   #44
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation


Ok....redemption......had you said you were using "Monster Cable", then I would have chalked you up to someone who doesn't know what they are doing...

While I consider a 3000w sub to be a 'bit' more than the average home theater needs....I guess it would make for some pretty good dynamic response on the low end. I bet that b!tch is pretty heavy...would have to be in order to project the sound. How big is it and does the speaker aim down or out?

So...getting back on topic.....

The 15A for the AC unit is actually only for when it is in heating mode. Since your going to be in there doing some work, I would make sure the right size wire was used.

As already noted...you don't want to piggy back off the AC unit...run a dedicated ckt.

If it was me....would be adding a surge protector to the sub panel.....sounds like you have some expensive gear there....protect it.

One other thing....this is a sub panel with no main disconnect....'technically' you're limited to 6 breakers....you are over 6 breakers.....I think you have plenty of power going to it....but it might be time to step back and look at the whole picture....maybe a slightly larger panel with a main breaker?
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:50 PM   #45
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Input needed on 240 vs. 120v situation


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Originally Posted by ddawg16 View Post
One other thing....this is a sub panel with no main disconnect....'technically' you're limited to 6 breakers....you are over 6 breakers.....I think you have plenty of power going to it....but it might be time to step back and look at the whole picture....maybe a slightly larger panel with a main breaker?
Yep, I missed that. Replacing single-poles with double-poles could get him back under the limit, even with a quad for the AC and subwoofer. If the panel accepts tandems/quads.

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