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Old 12-27-2010, 12:08 PM   #1
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Induction Cooktop 3 wire to 4 wire


Hi Folks,

House built in 1994, Oregon. I took out a Jennair electric cook top with down draft and am installing a Fagor Induction unit. My electric line seems the right match for the demand, dual pole 40 amp circuit. The existing line is 4 wire. Two black, one gray and one uninsulated bare wire. I have tried to attach a scan of the manual for the new Fagor (IFA-80). It has 3 wires, red, black and green. 240 v, 7200 watt, 30 A. Manual calls for 240 V, 2 pole + G, 40 A minimum supply. Also it says red to phase 2, black to phase 1, green to earth.

What is the correct wire to wire hook up? I think I know but want to confirm. I am using metal screw type junctions for the wire splice. I will wrap the splices in electrical tape. Everything is in conduit with a metal junction box and metal cover plate.

Thanks for your help.

I am new to this forum but it seems like a good group and well run with great posting software. Thanks to the moderators and folks who put in time answering questions.

Ed
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Old 12-27-2010, 12:13 PM   #2
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Induction Cooktop 3 wire to 4 wire


You would not use the grey in your supply. That is a neutral and would be utilized for equipment requiring a 120/240 volt circuit. Yours requires a 240 volt circuit. The grey (neutral) allows for 120 volt supply.

which of the colored supply wires being connected to the colored (not green) equipment wires is irrelevant. They are interchangeable.

Wire nuts would be easier than what you are using.

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Old 12-27-2010, 12:26 PM   #3
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Induction Cooktop 3 wire to 4 wire


Wire nut the grey wire and leave it in the back of the box.
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Old 12-27-2010, 01:19 PM   #4
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Induction Cooktop 3 wire to 4 wire


Thanks for the quick response. That is what I thought. two blacks are the same and no need for the grey, wire nut it.

The supply wiring is not copper. I guess it is aluminum? It is very heavy gauge, that is why I thought the screw type splice blocks would be a more sure connection. The old connections had grease on them. Do I need some grease again? Does it have to be a dielectric grease? I have tractor grease, white lithium based grease and petroleum jelly and probably some other greases. It is 30 miles to town, trying to save a trip! I will go get it if it is needed to do the job right.
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Old 12-27-2010, 01:59 PM   #5
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Induction Cooktop 3 wire to 4 wire


Quote:
Originally Posted by ereilly View Post

The supply wiring is not copper. I guess it is aluminum? It is very heavy gauge, that is why I thought the screw type splice blocks would be a more sure connection. The old connections had grease on them. Do I need some grease again? Does it have to be a dielectric grease? I have tractor grease, white lithium based grease and petroleum jelly and probably some other greases. It is 30 miles to town, trying to save a trip! I will go get it if it is needed to do the job right.
AAHHHHH!!!! stop!!


you have to be sure to use connectors rated for connecting copper to aluminum. What you have might be fine but if they are, there should be something like


al/cu

stamped on them.

Can you try to find a similar connector on the internet to show us, as closely as possible, what you have?

No, no tractor grease. It is no-ox. A compound used to prevent corrosion on the aluminum.
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Old 12-27-2010, 02:29 PM   #6
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Induction Cooktop 3 wire to 4 wire


Nap - Thanks for sticking with me on this.

The connector blocks say SPLICER-REDUCER SPA 2 2-14

see picture

After posting that last bit, I read about aluminum to copper and all the cautions about cleaning very carefully and preventing oxidizing. I will go to the store and get some anti ox grease. I will wrap with many layers of electrical tape.

Any other comments or advice?

Thanks again folks!
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Old 12-27-2010, 03:30 PM   #7
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Induction Cooktop 3 wire to 4 wire


I don't see anything stating that is rated for copper or aluminum. I'm having a problem with that. Aluminum has some problems with heat expansion and after all the fires related to aluminum wire, any devices used with aluminum wire must be rated for such. I suspect those connectors were made prior to the rules of requiring the marking. If those were what was used, apparently they worked but due to the problems with aluminum wiring. If it was me, I would purchase something actually known to be rated for aluminum and copper.

It appears the currently produced version of those are rated for aluminum or copper wire

https://www.ilsco.com/ProductsDetail...gVucXjD1xEA%3D
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Old 12-27-2010, 04:28 PM   #8
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Induction Cooktop 3 wire to 4 wire


I understand the caution.
looks to me like they are rated for aluminum - next to last bullet

  • Manufactured from high strength 6061-T6 aluminum alloy.
  • Electro-Tin plated.
  • UL 486B 90 C Listed and is CSA certified for 600 Volts.
  • Rounded bottoms.
  • Large screw diameters maximize wire contact.
  • Solid wire stop in center.
  • Dual Rated for Copper and Aluminum Conductor.
  • UL File E6207
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Old 12-27-2010, 04:43 PM   #9
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Induction Cooktop 3 wire to 4 wire


Maybe you are saying they should be stamped on the product?

It is the same part number - I think the same rating.
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Old 12-27-2010, 04:46 PM   #10
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Induction Cooktop 3 wire to 4 wire


Quote:
Originally Posted by ereilly View Post
Maybe you are saying they should be stamped on the product?

It is the same part number - I think the same rating.
yes, it must be stamped on the device. The currently produced units are al/cu compatible. If you notice they also look different than the one you pictured.

Yours may be fine. I tend to err on the side of not burning a house down if there is any question.
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Old 12-28-2010, 07:15 AM   #11
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Induction Cooktop 3 wire to 4 wire


just to follow up and close out this topic.

The back of the 'old' splicers do say AL / CU on them. I used them, got the anti-ox paste. greased the connections thoroughly, both wire and splicer. I wrapped each leg individually and sealed in a box with a solid plate. I finished the project last night.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 12-28-2010, 08:06 AM   #12
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Induction Cooktop 3 wire to 4 wire


You really need to figure out whether the wire is aluminum or not. If the house is in the PNW, and built in 1994, I would guess not. But you need to know

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