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-   -   I need to test a cable for a kitchen range (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/i-need-test-cable-kitchen-range-160778/)

justplumducky 10-21-2012 10:35 PM

I need to test a cable for a kitchen range
 
I need to test a cable for a kitchen range. It's a 3-wire cable (red, black, white) for the 3-prong cord attached to this range.

The cable is currently disconnected from the breaker box and the range-cord receptacle. If I have to, I will remove this cable from under this mobile home (easily done in this case), attach a new receptacle to it, then take it to another home where I can connect it to that home's breaker (after removing that home's range-cable from its breaker), then plug in the known good 3-prong-corded range to see if the cable in question will power up that range properly.

Please don't ask for any background at this point, as to why I need the test, because it would require more keyboarding than I can handle tonight.

I tested this cable by placing a jumper wire across the black & red wires for this cable (at the breaker box), after disconnecting them from the DP breaker, then went to the kitchen (wires are disconnected from the receptacle) and put the meter probes on the black & red wires. Result: Zero ohms. However, on this stranded, #8 wire cable, I'm not sure if that's a valid test. Maybe the meter current is being conducted along only one strand of this cable, and the rest of the cable could be bad enough (internal corrosion) to not conduct enough current to power up this range properly?

Is that possible? If that is in fact possible, what would be the least expensive way to properly test this cable to ensure it will power up to it's full kitchen range capacity? I thought about it connecting it to the water heater in this home (temporary testing), but since the water heater would only draw a maximum of about 18A when cold, that wouldn't be a valid test either, right?

Thanks so much for any help.

frenchelectrican 10-21-2012 10:43 PM

I know you mention mobile home therefore the correct cable will be 4 conductor which it will be black , red , white et bare or green conductor in there.

That is spefic code they have for mobile home for very long time so take a closer look at your cable to make sure you have 4 conductor in there.

To verify your DVM when you are on the ohm scale and the test probe touch each other it will hit zero that is very good conitunity so you did test the cable which you used red et black and " short " out one end and test it and come back good then it should be ok as long you do not have any junction box below the mobile home or damaged cable ( critter will love to eat them anyway ) so make sure you take a look at the cable before you ever turn the power on that cable.

BTW #8 copper NM or UF cable the max breaker size you will be using is 40 amp double pole breaker verison. ( make sure you get the correct breaker for this panel ) and again keep the neutral and ground seperated. ( that is a SOP for Mobile home inside panels )

Merci,
Marc

justplumducky 10-21-2012 11:04 PM

Thanks so much for your reply French~

So, are you saying that my concern about the meter current traveling along on only one strand of this cable is not an issue?

The reason I'm asking is because I get 240v across both hot legs at the stove connections, then 120 each hot leg to neutral, but when I turn a burner on (or bake/broil element), it drops to 12v. No burners or elements will get even a little warm. Duke Energy (power company) came out, checked their power at the meter outside and double-checked my testing at the breaker box inside the home- couldn't find anything wrong.

I've already been under the home to inspect the cable for damage.

Was just wondering about this continuity check I did. If the cable was corroded internally (it's laying on the ground, but not covered by any ground), could that be why it won't power up the stove properly? In other words, is voltage through a corroded cable (internally, only partially blocked if that's possible) possible at the stove connections, but when burner is turned on, voltage would drop off (not work when load is placed on it?)

Thx for your help French~

frenchelectrican 10-21-2012 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justplumducky (Post 1035447)
Thanks so much for your reply French~

So, are you saying that my concern about the meter current traveling along on only one strand of this cable is not an issue?

Due with the tester you will not put any load on that why it hard to tell if you have good connection on the cable until the load is on.

The reason I'm asking is because I get 240v across both hot legs at the stove connections, then 120 each hot leg to neutral, but when I turn a burner on (or bake/broil element), it drops to 12v. No burners or elements will get even a little warm. Duke Energy (power company) came out, checked their power at the meter outside and double-checked my testing at the breaker box inside the home- couldn't find anything wrong.

If your POCO did check the service and come out good then you have bad cable read on next comment below.

I've already been under the home to inspect the cable for damage.

Was just wondering about this continuity check I did. If the cable was corroded internally (it's laying on the ground, but not covered by any ground), could that be why it won't power up the stove properly? In other words, is voltage through a corroded cable (internally, only partially blocked if that's possible) possible at the stove connections, but when burner is turned on, voltage would drop off (not work when load is placed on it?)

Thx for your help French~

If that was laying on ground you will not see where is the damage is and with corroison or critter eating on that cable can do wonderfull mess and can catch on fire if start arcing.

Did you check the breaker connection and the bussbar to make sure they are not damaged ? ( if the bussbar is damaged you will have to replace the panel )

Best bet is replace the whole cable and support it and keep it away from the ground by the way any cable run under the mobile home body it have to be UF not the NM due it is wet area.

Merci,
Marc

justplumducky 10-22-2012 12:23 AM

Ok Marc, thx much for your help.


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