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Old 11-09-2008, 06:13 AM   #1
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I have a question very similar to Pilots


Ok here we go.

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Last edited by w8natedog69420; 11-11-2008 at 08:30 PM. Reason: I don't want to burden others with my thoughts.
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Old 11-09-2008, 07:10 AM   #2
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I have a question very similar to Pilots


if you removed a switch, the necessary wires for an outlet are not there. it may LOOK that way, but it is not going to work. also, in a bathroom, you need to install a GFCI outlet.

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Old 11-09-2008, 08:09 AM   #3
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I have a question very similar to Pilots


Those are most likely just switch leg wires.
What you think is the neutral, is not.

You are probably reading the 85 volts throught the fans motor.
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Old 11-09-2008, 08:55 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by w8natedog69420 View Post
Now I know the ground carries load as well as being the ground. But my ground wire(bare) has 120v with the hot while my nuetral(white) on bears about 85-90v. Im dumbfounded on how this could be. If any of you might have a suggestion or solution please let me know. I have no light in my bathroom, and I'm sure as heck not going to use my ground wire as the neutral even though I know I could get away with it for a little while but its not worth the risk.
The ground does not carry any load under normal conditions, only under fault conditions. If your ground is carrying any current, you have a serious problem.

As others have said, you probably do not have a neutral in your switch box, how did you wire the receptacle?

Did you simply take the two wires off of the switch and land them on the receptacle?

If that's what you did, the two wires you used are the hot wire and the switch leg to the fan, therefore the readings you are getting are through the windings of the fan motor as was previously mentioned by someone.

Your voltage readings are typical of a lost neutral connection.
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Old 11-09-2008, 08:58 AM   #5
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what he said

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Old 11-09-2008, 11:50 AM   #6
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while my nuetral(white) on bears about 85-90v. Im dumbfounded on how this could be.
Put a small lamp, say 25w or less, across this 85v and measure again across the lamp. If the 85v drops to ~0v it is an unconnected wire.
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Old 11-09-2008, 07:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Im ganna go to ace and buy a 20 amp breaker, just in case thats the issue.


120V to ground but only 80V to neutral tells you...?????

troubleshooting 101

A) Power comes from the breaker, on the black, to the light/recep.

B) It goes back to the panel on the white (neutral).

C) The grounds (bare) and neutrals are connected at the service panel.

Follow the path.

Ground wires shoud not carry current.
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:34 PM   #8
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Can you post a schematic of what you think you have, and what you're sure you have?

You may also want to make your measurements with respect to a known good ground.
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Old 11-10-2008, 10:43 PM   #9
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Well, that pretty much settles it.
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Old 11-11-2008, 10:00 AM   #10
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I have a question very similar to Pilots


Quote:
If all I get is criticizm and rudeness, fine I'll go somewhere that ppl actualy help.
We did...you all but told us our replies were things you already understood. In fact it was obvious to me that you thought we were not giving you enough credit since you are not "new to electrical".

BTW if the diagram was exactly what you have then you had no neutral in your switch box but you didn't need the diagram because you had books that were better. I removed it... I wouldn't want to 'waste your time'.

Study 220/221's post the answer lies in what he said also the post by EBFD6 would be a good one to reread.

When you go to that site where people help be sure to give them a tad bit more information than you gave us in your 1st post so you don't waste their time trying to figure out what your wiring scheme is.....

You might also work on your high horse and rudeness.
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Old 11-11-2008, 08:59 PM   #11
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Well you can stop fussing about my posts. I hired an electician and he was here for quiet a while. Luckily I got some of my problems resolved but he says we only scratched the surface. He says we are lucky our house hasn't burnt down. Some of the wires were exposed in the attic, he says the cause was most likely mice, which makes sense because we did have a mice problem a few yrs. ago. But he also said that someone connected copper wires to the aluminum wires without usng the proper meathod. At first he seemed to be blaming me but I never put new wiring in this house.
He said they didn't use a COPOLUM aluminum wiring repair. He also aid that they use plain old wire nuts to connect the copper to aluminum, which is not good at all because appearently the copper will deteriorate the aluminum wich can cause arcing, extensive heating of the wire, hot spots, and the part that made my stomach turn was the fact that this could happen and some how not even trip the breaker. So have a good night you all. Thanks for trying to help I guess I was just a little to frustrated to handle this one. Bad part is now I have to spend my savings to repair the rest of my house since he only repaired the cicuit that was in my posts, which also supplied my other bathroom my kitchen my master bedroom outlets my hallway and also had to newer junction boxes that led to two ceiling fans(thats were the copper was installed wrong). All of this running on a 15 amp breaker. He said we are very very lucky. I just wish I was with my wife at the time she had this person install those fans so I could.........well I'm not going to go there.......I'm just glad my wife and kids are a little safer now.
Bye
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Old 11-11-2008, 09:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
He also aid that they use plain old wire nuts to connect the copper to aluminum, which is not good at all because appearently the copper will deteriorate the aluminum wich can cause arcing, extensive heating of the wire, hot spots,
Over exaggeration.

The AL wire issues of the early 70's have caused everybody to try and cover their asses. A secure and dry AL/CU connection with a regular wire nut is fine. That $3 wirenut is simply liability insurance for the mfg.

I am glad you called a professional BTW.
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Old 11-12-2008, 10:27 PM   #13
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wow I wouldn't pay that much for a wire nut, I would wrap it with black tape and call it good. LOL kidding. I only payed like about .40 or .50 cents per set, he said these ones have a type of oil, or solvent, or something I can't remember what he called it( That was the part of our conversation were I sorta blanked out thinking oh great hes gonna tell me all this bullcrap thats not even tru just so he can charge me for it) anyways the stuff inside stops the copper from causeing the deteioration or makes the aluninum not deteriorate I don't know which, I really don't care as long as my house doesn't burn down.
Sad part is its gonna cost close to a grand to get the rest of my house up to date and safe. Today he said he found about 3 circuits that lead off to nowere. Hopefully when he traces those down they will at least be properly Capped off.
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Old 11-12-2008, 10:35 PM   #14
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I wouldn't pay a grand fixing aluminum wiring... I'd use the money to replace it with copper unless that is what you mean by up to date.

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