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Old 01-30-2009, 06:52 PM   #1
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How's this switch box look?


This is a switch is did today. It was only a 1.5" deep switch box due to the location, the wood paneling is original from around 1910, so I had to put in the switch box without damaging it, the shallow box was all that would work.

I used crimp on connectors to save space, the switch was 1" deep, so I had 1/2" for the grounding, neutral connection and slack in the wire.

Yes, I know there should have been a bit more slack in the wires, but didn't have any room.

How's this switch box look?-img_5239.jpg

Jamie

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Old 01-30-2009, 07:14 PM   #2
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Old 01-30-2009, 07:15 PM   #3
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How's this switch box look?


Are you aware of the requirement for 6" of free conductor length? How many cubic inches was that box?
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Old 01-30-2009, 07:26 PM   #4
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Are you aware of the requirement for 6" of free conductor length? How many cubic inches was that box?
Yes, that was the reason I made the comment that I knew there should have been more slack, but there wasn't room.

Seriously, What else can you do, leave the slack and cram the wires in?

I don't know the cu in of the box, but I would estimate it was about 10.

There is 6" of slack in the cable in the wall if it was necessary the clamp could be loosened and the cable pulled in more.

Jamie
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Old 01-30-2009, 08:08 PM   #5
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How's this switch box look?


If possible, I would have installed a 2" deep box minimum, not sure what you were dealing with as far as wall thickness, but overall the picture looks pretty ugly...
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Old 01-30-2009, 08:33 PM   #6
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How's this switch box look?


The box looks fine dont worry about it
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Old 01-30-2009, 08:42 PM   #7
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The box looks fine dont worry about it
And whats fine about it?
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Old 01-30-2009, 08:46 PM   #8
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If possible, I would have installed a 2" deep box minimum, not sure what you were dealing with as far as wall thickness, but overall the picture looks pretty ugly...
It's a brick wall behind it. If I went with a deeper box, the Romex would have really been pinched / crushed at the top of the box where the romex entered. I considered side entry / bottom / with nm clamps in the KO's and all other options would have resulted in either damaging the wood work or doing funky bends to the romex.

What else can be done when a shallow box is required to make for a cleaner install? I thought using the crimps because of their size made for a cleaner install.

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Old 01-30-2009, 08:48 PM   #9
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It's a brick wall behind it. If I went with a deeper box, the Romex would have really been pinched / crushed at the top of the box where the romex entered. I considered side entry / bottom / with nm clamps in the KO's and all other options would have resulted in either damaging the wood work or doing funky bends to the romex.

What else can be done when a shallow box is required to make for a cleaner install? I thought using the crimps because of their size made for a cleaner install.

Jamie
Why use the clamps? install a box with a KO and a connector? also, if nothing else... at least get the cable sheath in the box.

I do understand your stuck with the cards your delt with.

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Old 01-30-2009, 08:59 PM   #10
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Why use the clamps? install a box with a KO and a connector? also, if nothing else... at least get the cable sheath in the box.

I do understand your stuck with the cards your delt with.
I'll have to look at boxes again, none of the boxes I had or could find at the hardware had a KO in a spot that would work.

Thanks for pointing out about the cable sheath. It is under the clamp, I just cut it right at the clamp, which I only did because I knew the box was going to be a tight fit and wanted the wire to work with.

Thanks
Jamie
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Old 01-30-2009, 09:10 PM   #11
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Jamie, this box would have been the correct one for your situation... here is the model # B117RSW


http://www.carlon.com/Master%20Catal...0Boxes_2B1.pdf
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Old 01-30-2009, 10:39 PM   #12
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How's this switch box look?


Jamie, I definately agree with Chris about box choice. As far as connections, they look good and neatly done to me.

Why two ground screws?
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Old 01-30-2009, 11:48 PM   #13
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How's this switch box look?


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What else can be done when a shallow box is required to make for a cleaner install?
I spent the last two days working on my sunroom install - I've got a brick wall problem too.

I think this is a good question for the pros. Well, fellas, what's the trick? Even when I have PLENTY of room in a box I found working with the 12/2 challenging.

I kept thinking: there has GOT to be some sort of trick to wedging the recommended amount of slack neatly into a box.

I think I'd even just appreciate a pic of a nice switch/rec install so I have something to aspire toward.
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Old 01-30-2009, 11:55 PM   #14
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Jamie, I definately agree with Chris about box choice. As far as connections, they look good and neatly done to me.

Why two ground screws?
I messed up and didn't leave a pig tail for the switch and with my crimp on and the limited space, it seemed like putting in a new screw with a pigtail to the switch was a reasonable solution. I hope it is compliant.

It's hard to convey the limited amount of space presentin this wall, very little side to side room. Romex had to be fished around old K&T that would not come out so that limited the working space even more. The paneling is 1inch thick, and I don't think I could have gotten in that plastic box without damage to the paneling.
This was about the worst box we had to deal with in terms of a box in old woodwork. There are a couple lights that are on oak walls but I think we will be able to cut away more of the wood on thoses.

How are these small j-boxes suppose to be used? If your forced to use one is there a better way to deal with the connections? Am I violating any codes with this box? I of course want to make sure it is legal and passes inspection.
Thanks. Jamie
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Old 01-31-2009, 07:26 AM   #15
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How's this switch box look?


And whats not fine about it Chris? He has the sheath in the box. He removed the unused clamp. Worked with what he had and did a good job.

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