how to wire under cabinet lights

sjahan22

Greetings:
I have to install under cabinet lights in kitchen and wet bar to accent the back splash tiles. The outlet is on the wall and I have to run 18 to 24 inches to reach the underside of the cabinet. I was hoping to poke a hole in the drywall and fish the romex and put a molex connector at the other end to mate with the electrical lighting fixture. Molex connectors are low profile and will hide well.

What kind of cable should I use - I see many different type of romex cable(s). I only need 12 to 15 feet total. [18" run in 4 places and 24" run in 2 places]

Thanks
Shaw

sjahan22

I have to put under cabinet lights to cover 24 linear feet. Roughly 4 feet areas times 6 locations. The light is to accent the glass tile backsplash. What is an inexpensive way of doing it? In low profile (not bulky)


Thanks!
Shaw

Bob Mariani

the thinner the fixture the more cost. The more expensive fixtures are built better and will last longer and look better.

sjahan22

Thanks Bob.
Any specific recommendations ?

Bob Mariani

I would stick to LED or Xenon puck lights. Center on at the underside of each upper cabinet. (not tiny cabinets) Fluorescent are ugly and slow to light, halogens are too hot.

sjahan22

Thanks again.
BTW, I had posted another question and hadn't received any answers, can you help?

>>>I have to install under cabinet lights in kitchen and wet bar to accent the back splash tiles. The outlet is on the wall and I have to run 18 to 24 inches to reach the underside of the cabinet. I was hoping to poke a hole in the drywall and fish the romex and put a molex connector at the other end to mate with the electrical lighting fixture. Molex connectors are low profile and will hide well.

What kind of cable should I use - I see many different type of romex cable(s). I only need 12 to 15 feet total. [18" run in 4 places and 24" run in 2 places]

<<<<

R_T

Use a romex that has NMB on the jacket and a 600v rating . NM means nonmetallic sheath cable which is the actual trade term for romex. B stands for a rating of the maximum operating temperature which is 90°C. The most important concern is to match the size (AWG) of the romex that is supplying power.

Bob Mariani

use 14/2 with ground romex to feed the junction box located in one of the cabinets on the bottom. The lights come with fixture wire leads. drill a hole in the back corner of the cabinet then through adjoining cabinets to bring all the wires into a junction box with these wires. Splice them together with the black wire coming from the switch.

R_T

sjahan22

I got to wondering about your "molex" connector. What I see on the internet looks to be more of a low voltage data connector. If that is so, you need to reconsider your choice. Very important that your connector is UL listed for the purpose you intend. I hardwire the UC fixtures I install although there are fixtures that have plugs.

sjahan22

Thank You R_T
I haven't purchased the under cabinet light fixtures yet. I need to get the tiling done. So I am planning to hardwire at the outlet end and terminate the other end in a low profile covered junction box inside the cabinet. When I get the uc fixture, I can wire that into that junction box. Is there a 'junction box' like that I can buy ? Or do I get another surface mount outlet and mount it inside the cabinet

-Shaw

sjahan22

Bob,

is 14/2 with ground romex same as romex that has NMB on the jacket and a 600v rating?

Thanks

Scuba_Dave

2 threads on same topic merged

Jim Port

In the US the lights cannot be hardwired to the 20 amp receptacle circuits in the kitchen and dining room.

R_T

A very good point regarding the use restrictions for kitchen and dining receptacle circuits. Guess that would be the same for baths. Although he did not say, it is likely that the lights would be in one of those areas.

If someone was to do it anyway, they would probably find that the wire in the receptacle boxes they were using for power was a #12, not #14. It is very important that the wire is not downsized. If in doubt I would always suggest a #12 because you can go up in size.

As for the type fixture, Elco Lighting makes a dimmable xenon type fixture that isn't too hot for most cabinets (be careful w/ laminate). Looks just like a 1" profile fluorescent and is equally inexpensive. I believe the depth is slightly more than 1". If budget is not a concern, ew Powercore by Colorkinetics is really really nice.