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Old 01-17-2011, 05:06 PM   #1
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How to use Pocketmeter to test if Vacuum cleaner has electrical fault


Hi Everyone,

I wondered if anyone could give me some straightforward advice on how to use my Gunson Pocketmeter I 4195. I have a Dyson DC07 which suddenly died on me the other day. I have checked on the net and there seems to be a common fault on them with the electrical cabling.

I have removed the switch plate and checked the connections there. The cable from the plug goes through a grommet and then splits with the live going to the switch and the neutral joining to the neutral that leads to the motor. The live from the motor is also in the switch.

I want to check if there is a full electrical current running through and am not sure how to use the meter to check if there is a fault between the plug and the switch or the motor and the switch.

Any help would be really appreciated. I did try turning the meter to various settings and placing the red and black probes on the spades of the live wires but got a mix of no readings one minute, then a minus sign then other figures coming up - but it never stayed on anything for a very long time at all. Also there seemed to be a reading on one of the settings in mid air??

Thankyou for reading

Cara

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Old 01-17-2011, 05:48 PM   #2
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How to use Pocketmeter to test if Vacuum cleaner has electrical fault


do you know how to use your meter? I'll presume you do. If not, ask and there is a good pic on the internet availble so we can help with that too.


start with the appliance unplugged. Set the meter to 200 Ω. I would check the switch first. with the switch in the "on" position, touch a probe to each place a wire connects to the switch, cord side and motor side. You should have a near 0 reading. try flip the switch and checking again.

You should read "infinate, OL, or open (not sure what your meter will display for an open circuit) with the switch one way and 0 or near 0 the other way. If you don't get that, the switch is defective.

If that read good, I would then turn the switch to the off position and check for resistance from the cord plug to the switch. Check to both plug blade to be sure you checked the correct blade. You should have an open reading with one and a near 0 reading with the other.

Then, if that is good, go back to motor or where you can make a connection with the leads going to the motor.

Again, with the switch off, check from the motor lead connection to the neutral wherever you can get to it. This should read some low resistance. A few ohms or so. Then, check from that neutral connection to the cord plug. You should have a near 0 reading.


before you do any of this, have you checked the outlet for voltage? of plugged into a different outlet?

I did a little research on the internet and it appears a motor overheating problem is not unheard of. In such cases, you may have to wait up to a couple hours for the thermal overload to reset. If the thermal is open, you should get an open or infinate reading when checking from the motor side of the switch to the neutral.


Last edited by nap; 01-17-2011 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 01-18-2011, 01:15 PM   #3
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How to use Pocketmeter to test if Vacuum cleaner has electrical fault


Thankyou Nap, for such a detailed reply to my post, it is really appreciated. I will be having a go at following your advice tomorrow and will let you know how I get on.

To be honest I don't really know how to use the pocketmeter. But hopefully I will be able to follow your directions and work it out. I don't quite understand the difference between the 4 different types of testing but can see the Ω sign on the meter and so will use that quadrant of the dial to test it.

Watch this space

Thanks again

Cara
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Old 01-18-2011, 02:41 PM   #4
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How to use Pocketmeter to test if Vacuum cleaner has electrical fault


on your meter, plug your leads into the two right inputs. One is marked "COM" and the other is marked "VΩmA (and a diode symbol)" for the testing I described.
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Old 01-19-2011, 05:10 AM   #5
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How to use Pocketmeter to test if Vacuum cleaner has electrical fault


Hi Nap,

Right I have tried your tests today. When the meter is first turned on to the 200Ω it has a number 1 on the left hand side of the screen.

With the switch on and touching both live spades with the probes I get a lot of fluctuating readings which seem to want to rest on 0.4 or 0.5ish but not for very long!! When the switch is off the display just shows the "1" mentioned above. So I presume this is meaning that it is near to zero like you said and then "open" when the switch is off

Then I have done the test from the live at the switch to the live plug blade and got a lot of fluctuatiing again and then it rested on 0.2, i tested against another blade and it just showed the "1" again. So I presume again that this is near enough zero and open.

Does the fluctuating mean anything or does a meter always do this?

I cant get near the motor at the moment because you need a special screwdriver!! So I cant check the neutral to the motor. I have checked the neutral on the main cable back to the neutral plug blade and this produces a reading that wants to rest around the 2.5 mark.

Can you let me know if this all sounds ok. Thankyou.
Btw I have tried the hoover since using it, in case it was the thermal cut out but I had only had it on a couple of minutes when it died, anyway!!!

Thanks again for all your help
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Old 01-19-2011, 09:00 AM   #6
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How to use Pocketmeter to test if Vacuum cleaner has electrical fault


the 1 is apparently what your meter uses to indicate an "open" or "infinite" circuit. A lot of meters I tend to use indicate that with OL (over limit). A 0 would indicate a good connection such as 0Ω resistance.

since you are trying to check a very low level of resistance, the fluctuation can be as simple as you moving the probe, even a bit, and changing the quality of the connection. Not a big deal overall.



Quote:
Btw I have tried the hoover since using it
are you in England? The term "hoover" tends to make me believe so. Not an issue, just curiosity.


Ok, since you can't get to the neutral at the motor, we'll improvise.

with it unplugged (still), turn the switch to the "on" position. Then, with the Ω setting still on 200, measure from blade to blade on the plug (the one that plugs into the wall outlet). You should get a very low number. Then, just to check, turn the switch off and check again. You should get your "1" reading.

If that checks as a fairly low resistance with the switch on, that means you have a complete circuit clear through the electrical system on the appliance. That means either the motor is simply bad or it is bound up.

This then gets into taking the unit apart to see if there is something binding the motor. Not being familiar with the unit itself, there isn't a lot of direction I can give you there. Basically you need to get to the impeller on the motor (the blades that move the air on the end of the motor) to see it you can spin it. It should move quite freely.

maybe this guy can help you from here:


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