How to make a full switch recepticle half switched and half constant power?

johncdbass

Hello all, first let me say that I am good at fishing but the electrical stuff is half chinese to me. I have a switched recepticle that when switched is fully on. I would like to make it half constant on all the time. I cannot run any additonal wires where this switch/recepticle are now because of cabinets in the way. The recepticle is the only one on this switch and all it has is three wires, white/black and green. Thanks for your help!

jbfan

If it only has the black, white, and green wire, you cannot change this to a 1/2 switch receptacle.
What wires are located at the switch, and is it wire with cable or conduit?

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johncdbass

Yes the switch only has 3 wires black/white and green. So I am out of luck? There is nothing else I can do? Thanks John

PS A weird thought idea but I thought about a clap on/clap off(not sure how it work?) for the one 1/2 I do not want constant on? Thanks!

PS 2- Its romex cable

The recepticle I am going to use is also hidden on top of the cabinets, it is used to plug in the cabinet lights. I just saw a wireless recepticle that I might be able to leave the switch on, plug the wireless recepticle into that and plug the kitchen cabinet lights into that and turn on and off with the wireless tranbsmitter and plug my home theatre wireless speaker plug into the other side of the always on recepticle? Seems like an idea if nothing else can be done? Thanks

kbsparky

Is there only one cable assembly in the receptacle? How about in the switch?

One of them should have more than one cable assembly (with corresponding black-white-green conductors in it) in the box.

IF the switch only has one cable in it, and the outlet has 2 cables in it, then it is very possible to obtain the results you are seeking simply by changing a few connections.....

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dmxtothemax

What do you mean by "half constant on all the time'

oberkc

If there is only one wire (black/white/green) at the outlet, then I assume that power is supplied at the switch. If you are willing to play around with a switch and outlet that is something other than standard, this can be done without additional wiring.

There are outlets and switches that send control signals through the power lines. If you get a switch that sends the control signals and an outlet that receives them, simply replace your existing devices with these. You would have to change the wiring at the switch box so that the feed to the outlet is constant, rather than switched.

Besides a couple of simple steps to program the devices, that would be it. Cost would be less than $100 for the two devices. If this sounds like something that would be worth it for you, then respond here and I can provide further details.

johncdbass

Ok that is something i would like to try. However the instruction would need to be for a 4th grader(I'm not as smart as a 5th grader ) I also cannot run any additional wire thru the wall as the kitchen cabinets are in the way. The switch has two switches in it. One on top of each other. The top switch is for my recepticle which is above the cabinets and has the inside cabinet lights plugged into it. The bottom switch controls the under cabinet lights. The recepticle I need to change to half always on and half switched has only 3 wires, wht/bk/gn. Hope this helps! Would the new device switch have 2 switches in it? Also at the switch I actually have 3 boxes for the 1.telephone recepticle, 2 two switches for ceiling lights and 3 the double switch i mentioned above( one for recepticle and one for undercab lights) and i would need the new one to have two switches built into it as well. Tx John

oberkc

I guess it is a bit more complicated than I originally understood. Phone in the same box as power? That is interesting. Because of the additional complications, cost of devices may be higher than I originally proposed.

I use "insteon" switches throughout my house. (There are also other types, including X-10, UPB, Zwave, others.) Insteon does not make a double switch. They do, however, make a keypad that can indirectly (via communication with another insteon device) control up to devices. The keypad, itself, can directly (hooking to a load) control only a single device.

Since your outlet would be only indirectly controlled, a keypad could work here. You would simply have a few extra buttons that are unused. The outlets are designed in such a way that only one half is controlled. The other is always on. This is how you want it, as I understand.

In order to make this work, you will have to be willing to open your switch box and identify the hots and neutrals. You will need to identify the wire that goes to your outlet and to your undercabinet lights. You would be removing your existing double switch and replacing it with the keypad. Using wire nuts, you will need to be able to hook hot to the outlet wire, and the keypad. You will be combining neutrals.

Programming, in your case, would be performed at the devices. You simply have to "link" (establish communication between) the appropriate keypad button and the outlet. This is simple enough for even a third-grader.

If this sounds like something with which you are comfortable, then here are the devices. Six button keypad in ivory (8-buttons are available):

http://www.smarthome.com/2486DIV6/Ke...r-Ivory/p.aspx

Outlet:

http://www.smarthome.com/2473SAL/Out...-Almond/p.aspx

I have not mentioned switchplates. These are all decora type devices requiring that type of switchplate opening. I am unsure if this matches your existing switchplate. While combination switchplates are available, one with a combo light switch and phone outlet I am less certain about. You need to consider this.

One additional thought about this approach....these devices can be configured in several different ways and can respond to other insteon devices such as timers. You could easily add an insteon-enabled timer and use this to automatically trigger your insteon-controlled lights (in your case, undercabinet and outlet) based on time and/or sunset/sunrise. You could also use the extra keypad buttons to control other fixtures in the room, if you wish to add to your collection of insteon devices.

Enjoy!

johncdbass

Thanks Oberck! I think those systems are pretty cool and are exactly what I need. I need to clarify that the existing switchplate has three boxes in it, 1)is a switch on top and a recepticle on bottom of which I plug on the tel power, 2) is a switch and dimmer combo and 3) is my double switch which goes to the recepticle we talked about. I think I like that idea and will look into it further and let you know what I decide to do, Thanks so much! John