DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Electrical (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/)
-   -   HOW TO Install Exterior Post Light (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/how-install-exterior-post-light-184483/)

mystic_cobra 07-30-2013 12:32 AM

HOW TO Install Exterior Post Light
 
I'm an advanced DIYer. I finished a complete kitchen renovation a couple months ago. I just realized that I think I owe some "after" pics to my build thread.

I am planning to install a post light next to my garage (12 ft run) and add three exterior wall lights on the garage exterior. I will likely put these four lights on a new lighting circuit.

This is the first small project that is part of my complete garage redo. I'm going to paint the floor, frame, insulate, and add a bunch of elctrical outlets/receptacles/lighting in the garage. I am also going to paint and install my old kitchen cabinets and add heat/AC. Anyway...

1. Is there a HOW TO for running the conduit, pouring the concrete, etc?
2. I'll have a bunch of questions including type of conduit, where to cut the hole in the garage, how to tunnel under the sidewalk, what size conduit and wire, how deep, all that stuff.
3. I haven't decided if I'm going to put these on a timer or dusk to dawn or what. These lights do not have a light sensor.

Thanks

frenchelectrican 07-30-2013 02:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mystic_cobra (Post 1222807)
I'm an advanced DIYer. I finished a complete kitchen renovation a couple months ago. I just realized that I think I owe some "after" pics to my build thread.

I am planning to install a post light next to my garage (12 ft run) and add three exterior wall lights on the garage exterior. I will likely put these four lights on a new lighting circuit.

See below for my comment you will see what I am up to.,


This is the first small project that is part of my complete garage redo. I'm going to paint the floor, frame, insulate, and add a bunch of elctrical outlets/receptacles/lighting in the garage. I am also going to paint and install my old kitchen cabinets and add heat/AC. Anyway...

1. Is there a HOW TO for running the conduit, pouring the concrete, etc?

There are many ways to do the pole set up. All it depending on what kind of pole , height , weight / size of luminaire so the answer will varies a bit.

As far for the pole base that question is best check with your local inspector office to see what they do required due there are many ways to deal depending on soil , wind load factor etc,etc.,,

2. I'll have a bunch of questions including type of conduit, where to cut the hole in the garage, how to tunnel under the sidewalk, what size conduit and wire, how deep, all that stuff.

For a single 15 or 20 amp 120 volt circuit with GFCI you can bury shallow as 12 inches but if you going to use the conduit without useing the GFCI then it will have to drop down to standard 18 inches depth.

The conduit size most case useally half inch PVC useally work fine for single circuit.

For the conductor in the conduit the best conductor you can use is THHN/THWN indivual conductors. you can use 14 awg only if used with 15 amp breaker otherwise 12 awg with 20 amp breaker.

To cut a hole in garage wall a common hole saw or speedbore bit will useally do it just use slightly larger than the conduit itself so it will go in nice.


3. I haven't decided if I'm going to put these on a timer or dusk to dawn or what. These lights do not have a light sensor.


What kind of luminaire are we talking about the halogen one or what ? and are they being used every nite or just once a while useage?
Thanks


My reply in Bleu so I know you may have more question to ask so one of us will answer the question.

Merci,
Marc

mystic_cobra 07-30-2013 10:55 AM

I just dug out my book, "Complete Home Wiring" and discovered there's a small section in there that covers outdoor projects such as this. So, I now have some guidance as well as pictures! :)

The pole is 80" high and 3" in diameter. I'm assuming it's just a hollow tube. The light is a standard post light for a single 100W (max) bulb. Both are from Lowes. We will likely use CFL to match our others. I put the other exterior lights on electronic programmable timer switches and I set the schedule. I may do the same here although that would make four of these things that I have to adjust occasionally as the days get shorter. So, these lights will be on all night every night.

Digging in our clay soil is not fun and I'll probably go with 12" depth and the PVC conduit (rigid nonmetallic, I think it is called). What's the easiest way to go under a sidewalk? We are going to replace the sidewalk soon, I wonder if the wife will let me cut it instead of boring underneath. I do plan to use a GFCI. IIRC, the cost of a GFCI breaker was significantly more than the cost of a standard breaker and a GFCI outlet. Of course, I should include the cost of the receptacle box, cover plate, etc in that comparison. Does the NEC have issues with me putting an outlet on this lighting circuit? I vaguely remember there being something about separating lighting from outlets on different circuits.

What is the advantage to using individual conductors vs using something like insulated underground feeder (UF) cable in the conduit?

Just thought of another question as I am doing this a little backwards. I am going to install these 4 lights before I frame the garage. I am doing this because I want to get the driveway lit now and the framing of the garage will likely take a couple months. I have to completely clean out the two-car garage, re-do the floor, paint/seal the floor before putting down the framing. Will it cause me a bunch of headaches to frame around this wiring? What can I do now in planning the location of the wiring to make the framing easier.

mystic_cobra 07-30-2013 04:11 PM

Speaking of light sensors...is there a photocell switch available that is designed to work with CFLs?
like this: http://www.gladiatorlighting.com/00876a

I used to have a light sensor that screws into a bulb socket and it killed CFL ballasts within 24 hrs. I need something that will only switch on or off twice per day.

frenchelectrican 07-31-2013 12:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mystic_cobra (Post 1222929)
I just dug out my book, "Complete Home Wiring" and discovered there's a small section in there that covers outdoor projects such as this. So, I now have some guidance as well as pictures! :)

The pole is 80" high and 3" in diameter. I'm assuming it's just a hollow tube. The light is a standard post light for a single 100W (max) bulb. Both are from Lowes. We will likely use CFL to match our others. I put the other exterior lights on electronic programmable timer switches and I set the schedule. I may do the same here although that would make four of these things that I have to adjust occasionally as the days get shorter. So, these lights will be on all night every night.

Ahh ok the common little post ( I am used to larger one.)

That will work very well with CFL but keep in your mind it will take little longer to get on full brightness in cold weather. and are you plan to leave this run in dusk to dawn mode ? or want that to come on dusk then turn off at specifc time where you want to turn it off like midnite or something like that?

Some of the post I know they can be plastique or alum or wood so there are few differnt style you can choose from.



Digging in our clay soil is not fun and I'll probably go with 12" depth and the PVC conduit (rigid nonmetallic, I think it is called). What's the easiest way to go under a sidewalk? We are going to replace the sidewalk soon, I wonder if the wife will let me cut it instead of boring underneath. I do plan to use a GFCI. IIRC, the cost of a GFCI breaker was significantly more than the cost of a standard breaker and a GFCI outlet. Of course, I should include the cost of the receptacle box, cover plate, etc in that comparison. Does the NEC have issues with me putting an outlet on this lighting circuit? I vaguely remember there being something about separating lighting from outlets on different circuits.

If you going underneth the sidewalk you can use few differnt way you can bore it out.

One way I done this pretty often is use short section of EMT conduit and make a point in front so it can drive thru the clay soil with sleghammer or use the drill with long bit ( use the cheap one if you can ) or bore it thru with water ( this part can be messy but it work.)

As far for this outdoor luminarie you can have that on the same circuit as common lighting circuit due the load you have on them is small so that is not a issue.

It genrally cheaper to buy a GFCI receptale than GFCI breakers. But it can be done either way.


What is the advantage to using individual conductors vs using something like insulated underground feeder (UF) cable in the conduit?

Normally If you use the PVC conduit it work the best with THHN/THWN conductors it easier to pull it thru but UF cable can work thru the PVC conduit but it will be pain in butt with it espcally with half inch verison is about the worst.

Just thought of another question as I am doing this a little backwards. I am going to install these 4 lights before I frame the garage. I am doing this because I want to get the driveway lit now and the framing of the garage will likely take a couple months. I have to completely clean out the two-car garage, re-do the floor, paint/seal the floor before putting down the framing. Will it cause me a bunch of headaches to frame around this wiring? What can I do now in planning the location of the wiring to make the framing easier.

My reply in Bleu so you know that is my answer.

Just run the PVC outside of the garage fondation and install the PVC weather proof box there and hook up the circuit and run a tempory UF feeder to the house circuit so you have the luminaire to be engerized before you get the garage done.

Just don't get too close to the corner that useally the worst spot some case you may not able get the circuit run in proper spot.

Bon Chance .

Merci,
Marc

frenchelectrican 07-31-2013 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mystic_cobra (Post 1223036)
Speaking of light sensors...is there a photocell switch available that is designed to work with CFLs?
like this: http://www.gladiatorlighting.com/00876a

I used to have a light sensor that screws into a bulb socket and it killed CFL ballasts within 24 hrs. I need something that will only switch on or off twice per day.


For the plastic post where there is a small opening you can buy a button photocell it will look more invisble than the one you have and that button photocell ifyou have three wire verison that will work just about any type of lighting load without issue.

Only one tip I will pass to ya is if you do go this route you may need to make a small plastique tube to reduce the amout of light get into the photocell cause to cycle it wrong time.

Let moi post the photo so you will know what I am talking about.

http://img3.wfrcdn.com/lf/49/hash/12...-Photocell.jpg


Merci,
Marc

mystic_cobra 07-31-2013 10:03 AM

Boring through with a piece of pipe and a hammer sounds like it would be the most effective. I have a long masonry bit and I might try that to get started.

Yes, I plan to leave those lights on from dusk to dawn. I may put a switch on it but just for maintenance.

Thanks again for the ideas. I like how you switch from English to French occasionally. I worked with a girl from the DR and she used to switch between English and Spanish without realizing it.

frenchelectrican 08-01-2013 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mystic_cobra (Post 1223321)
Boring through with a piece of pipe and a hammer sounds like it would be the most effective. I have a long masonry bit and I might try that to get started.

You can try that but you will have to dig up both side of sidewalk to start digging in there.

Yes, I plan to leave those lights on from dusk to dawn. I may put a switch on it but just for maintenance.

Then the CFL is pretty good choice for dusk to dawn useage they will last a quite a while before they burn out useally about 12,000 Hours life. due you are not turn it on / off often like less than 3 hours that will affect the life of the flourscent lamp so longer it stay on the longer the life it will goes.

And it will be wise idea to put a switch on so you can turn it off for mantanace reason or some case you want it off for a while as well without restorting to hit the breaker to kill it.


Thanks again for the ideas. I like how you switch from English to French occasionally. I worked with a girl from the DR and she used to switch between English and Spanish without realizing it.

It not a problem at all and I can switch between English and French without any effort due I grew up with it.

There were few time I get couple poster from Quebec area then I will speak in straight French instead of English at first so I will genrally post both French and English on the same time so other peoples will understand moi what I am talking about.

Bien sûr, je ne parle très bien le français.

( Of course , I do speak French very well.)

Merci,
Marc

mystic_cobra 08-01-2013 09:42 AM

So, I picked up the light pole yesterday and it came with a decent set of instructions including a diagram. It said to dig 12" diameter hole at least 18" deep and use a 12" trench for the power and put a few inches of gravel in the bottom. It has a 1" or so hole in the side about a foot from the bottom for the wiring. Is the flexible conduit okay to use or should I stick with the rigid pvc conduit?

frenchelectrican 08-02-2013 12:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mystic_cobra (Post 1223681)
So, I picked up the light pole yesterday and it came with a decent set of instructions including a diagram. It said to dig 12" diameter hole at least 18" deep and use a 12" trench for the power and put a few inches of gravel in the bottom. It has a 1" or so hole in the side about a foot from the bottom for the wiring. Is the flexible conduit okay to use or should I stick with the rigid pvc conduit?

IMO it work the best if you stay with PVC conduit all the way thru so you don't have to worry about anything shifted when you backfill the post hole up.

Merci,
Marc

COLDIRON 08-02-2013 08:14 AM

When you pour the concrete make sure you make a template where the bolts go through to hold the post in position. When it drys replace the template (plywood) with the actual pole that way you know your hold down bolts are in the exact position when mounting the pole base.

mystic_cobra 08-02-2013 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by COLDIRON (Post 1224080)
When you pour the concrete make sure you make a template where the bolts go through to hold the post in position. When it drys replace the template (plywood) with the actual pole that way you know your hold down bolts are in the exact position when mounting the pole base.

BOLTS? There is no mention of bolts in the instructions. It just says to jam the pole in the hole so that it goes into the gravel and then fill the hole with cement. It also says to hold it there until it cures. ;)

This pole is a one piece pole (plus the cross bar) that you stick in the ground...just a hollow tube. Are you thinking of a two piece pole with a base?

COLDIRON 08-02-2013 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mystic_cobra (Post 1224110)
BOLTS? There is no mention of bolts in the instructions. It just says to jam the pole in the hole so that it goes into the gravel and then fill the hole with cement. It also says to hold it there until it cures. ;)

This pole is a one piece pole (plus the cross bar) that you stick in the ground...just a hollow tube. Are you thinking of a two piece pole with a base?

I was thinking of a base for the pole.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:14 PM.