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wdrrob 08-02-2011 11:56 AM

How increase the length of wire to line connection
 
I need to extent the wires on a power supply in a luminaire so that they reach the supply voltage in a remote junction box. They are 14g stranded copper. Can I solder on wires with the additional length I need and then use shrink tubing around the joint or do I have to use wire nuts or both.

Thanks,

Dale

Broughton 08-02-2011 12:01 PM

Google "vinyl insulated butt splices"

CheapCharlie 08-02-2011 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wdrrob (Post 698805)
I need to extent the wires on a power supply in a luminaire so that they reach the supply voltage in a remote junction box. They are 14g stranded copper. Can I solder on wires with the additional length I need and then use shrink tubing around the joint or do I have to use wire nuts or both.

Thanks,

Dale

You can't hide junction points in the wall. Butt splices or any other kind of splice you may use. You need a junction box and it has to be accessible.

Broughton 08-02-2011 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CheapCharlie

You can't hide junction points in the wall. Butt splices or any other kind of splice you may use. You need a junction box and it has to be accessible.

That is a good point. Thank goodness multiple people look at these posts!

wdrrob 08-02-2011 01:12 PM

Ok. That's what I figured. All of this will be done in an aluminum enclosure that contains the PS and and is accessible. So the next question is, what defines a junction box?

gregzoll 08-02-2011 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wdrrob (Post 698854)
Ok. That's what I figured. All of this will be done in an aluminum enclosure that contains the PS and and is accessible. So the next question is, what defines a junction box?

A metal, plastic, or fiberglass box rated for the use in electrical circuits. Also a old sub or main power panel without the guts can be used as a junction box.

bob22 08-02-2011 02:05 PM

Is this going to be inside or outside (the junction for the splice)? If outside, you need a junction box and wire rated for wet exposure. Other questions come to mind regarding how you are running the new wiring to the light (surface or behind walls, floors, etc) and if it needs to be protected from damage?

joed 08-02-2011 02:27 PM

Just use wire nuts. No need for but splices and crimpers.

wdrrob 08-02-2011 04:12 PM

This is an outdoor canopy light. I'm disconnecting the Universal ballast/caps from the line voltage so that I can wire in a PS that will run LED lights to replace the metal halide. The PS comes with only 6" of wire but is rated to be IP67 and is mounted near to the LED modules. Currently, the line in is wire-nut connected to the ballast but there's no specific junction box so I assume the canopy enclosure must qualify as such.

gregzoll 08-02-2011 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wdrrob (Post 698950)
This is an outdoor canopy light. I'm disconnecting the Universal ballast/caps from the line voltage so that I can wire in a PS that will run LED lights to replace the metal halide. The PS comes with only 6" of wire but is rated to be IP67 and is mounted near to the LED modules. Currently, the line in is wire-nut connected to the ballast but there's no specific junction box so I assume the canopy enclosure must qualify as such.

Is this new fixture outdoor rated? Post a picture of the old & new light you are wanting to use in question, along with any website info if avail. Keep in mind, LED lighting may not be as bright as a Metal Halide would be.


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