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Old 06-08-2009, 05:21 PM   #16
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How do I fish the power cable without breaking backsplash


For fishing through the fiberglass insulation, an electricians fish tape may be too flexible. I'd use a short (2') length of 9 gauge steel bottom wire as used for a chain link fence.
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Old 06-08-2009, 10:32 PM   #17
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How do I fish the power cable without breaking backsplash


CAREFULLY use an 18" long 3/8" masonary bit to get thru the tile. You hole will be angled up which will make the fish even more difficult, but it's doable.

What's on the other side of the wall?

Drywall is easy to cut and patch.

Or...angle drill thru the inside of the cabinet and work it back under.

Oh yeah, you can't legally use the kitchen countertop receps for undercabinet lights. I know I have never done it

Last edited by 220/221; 06-08-2009 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 06-09-2009, 02:09 PM   #18
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How do I fish the power cable without breaking backsplash


220/1- OP had diagram showing this as exterior wall, which is why I asked about siding. But OP may not even be around. Cheers.
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:55 AM   #19
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How do I fish the power cable without breaking backsplash


At the end, I decided to drill a hole inside of the cabinet and work it back under. And now, I have a 3/4" hole and tried to fish down the cable. BUT it is not easy. Do you guys have any suggestion? Man, I am just 10" away.....

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Old 06-10-2009, 11:56 AM   #20
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How do I fish the power cable without breaking backsplash


Also, what can I use to cover up the hole in the cabinet? My wife is going to kill me when she saw it back from vacation.
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:59 AM   #21
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How do I fish the power cable without breaking backsplash


Use the piece you cut out. Secure some 3/4 or 1" trim to it and cover the hole.
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:25 PM   #22
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How do I fish the power cable without breaking backsplash


Shove a piece of wire down from the top and one up. Put a hook on each one and try to hook them
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:11 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by PaliBob View Post
For fishing through the fiberglass insulation, an electricians fish tape may be too flexible. I'd use a short (2') length of 9 gauge steel bottom wire as used for a chain link fence.
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I used your method and it works perfectly!! Thank you!!!

Right now, I have another question about how to remove 7/8" knockout on the lighting fixtures. Check this:

http://linogene.com/anglais/pdf/inst...neaires-en.pdf

I can see the sharp of knockout, but it seems impossible to remove by hand. Do I need a tool to open it up?

Thanks for advise.
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Old 06-11-2009, 12:20 PM   #24
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How do I fish the power cable without breaking backsplash


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Originally Posted by Uncledan View Post
I used your method and it works perfectly!! Thank you!!!

Right now, I have another question about how to remove 7/8" knockout on the lighting fixtures. Check this:

http://linogene.com/anglais/pdf/inst...neaires-en.pdf

I can see the sharp of knockout, but it seems impossible to remove by hand. Do I need a tool to open it up?

Thanks for advise.
Take a screw driver and hammer. Find where the slug/KO is spot welded to the fixture. Hit the slug with hammer and screw driver where its not attached/welded. You may have to get a pair of pliers and wiggle the slug back and forth until the spot weld breaks. Don't be afraid to give it a good whack. You can straighten it out with lineman's pliers once the KO is out.

Edit.....7/8ths is the real size of the hole. It's 1/2" in trade terms.

Last edited by J. V.; 06-11-2009 at 12:23 PM.
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Old 06-11-2009, 01:13 PM   #25
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How do I fish the power cable without breaking backsplash


I have found that with a lot of these UC light fixtures you can pound on the stamped knockout all day long and not budge it and end up with a deformed fixture. You are better off just using a Unibit to drill it out.
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Old 06-11-2009, 01:55 PM   #26
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How do I fish the power cable without breaking backsplash


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I have found that with a lot of these UC light fixtures you can pound on the stamped knockout all day long and not budge it and end up with a deformed fixture. You are better off just using a Unibit to drill it out.
Ah, you see, that's 'cause you skipped out on InPhase's "how to remove a knockout" class. The trick to KOs on these lights, and the super tough KOs on A/C disconnects is really simple. Rap them on one side of the weld, then the other, like a see-saw. It works EVERY time. If you just beat on one side, you will destroy the thing. I've learned the hard way. It may take a few times going back and forth, but it works.
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Old 06-11-2009, 03:34 PM   #27
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Ah, you see, that's 'cause you skipped out on InPhase's "how to remove a knockout" class. The trick to KOs on these lights, and the super tough KOs on A/C disconnects is really simple. Rap them on one side of the weld, then the other, like a see-saw. It works EVERY time. If you just beat on one side, you will destroy the thing. I've learned the hard way. It may take a few times going back and forth, but it works.
I've tried most everything possible on the cheaper UC lights, the Unibit works best. Since I switched to using NSL UCs exclusively though, I haven't had a problem.
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Old 06-12-2009, 12:56 AM   #28
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How do I fish the power cable without breaking backsplash


I agree with both of you. Some fixtures are a real pain. Sometimes heater cans too. With a ton of finess it can be done. But some are near impossible

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