Hot Vs. Neutral On Chandelier - Electrical - Page 2 - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

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10-22-2013, 09:18 AM   #16
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I finally realized what you are doing so maybe this will make some since. To get a viable reading with an ohm meter the chandelier will need to be completely disconnected from your house wiring. Your meter uses its battery to run a small current through the probes and calculates the electrical resistance. You're not concerned with the amount of resistance but with continuity so any reading from 0 to less than a 1000 will verify continuity. First thing to do zero the meter. this calibrates and verifies that it is indeed working. Hold the probes together and you should get a reading of 0 or nearly 0. Now you can check which wire is connected to the bases of the lamp sockets. You will get a reading of a few ohms for continuity or no reading for "try the other wire."

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 10-22-2013, 10:20 AM #17 Member   Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 571 Rewards Points: 388 Sorry, but now I'm even more confused. How will disconnecting it from the house tell me which wire on the chandler itself is neutral and which is hot? My issue is the sticker which labeled the correct wire fell off leaving me with two gold wires without any markings. __________________ Central New Jersey Area
 10-22-2013, 10:34 AM #18 Member     Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 1,978 Rewards Points: 1,638 When you put one of your meter probes on a bulb socket wall and the other probe on either of the wires you will get a near zero reading if that wire is the neutral. If you don't then it is the other wire. __________________ "Ask me anything. If I don't know the answer I'll make something up."
 10-22-2013, 10:41 AM #19 Member   Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 571 Rewards Points: 388 Ok I think I understand now. Thanks!! __________________ Central New Jersey Area
 10-22-2013, 08:39 PM #20 Electrical Contractor     Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Delmarva Posts: 3,368 Rewards Points: 2,000 The neutral conductor is always marked somehow. You could have outer ribs on one of the conductors. Or lettering (as you have noted). Or white or silver in color. The wire with the lettering on it is your neutral in this case. __________________ -KB Life is uncertain -- eat dessert first!!
 The Following User Says Thank You to kbsparky For This Useful Post: Know A Little (10-22-2013)
10-22-2013, 09:01 PM   #21
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by kbsparky The neutral conductor is always marked somehow. You could have outer ribs on one of the conductors. Or lettering (as you have noted). Or white or silver in color. The wire with the lettering on it is your neutral in this case.

10-22-2013, 09:02 PM   #22
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Know A Little Had some with gold cloth neutral had a red thread woven in.
And THAT is the neutral conductor, even though some might think that the red coloring would indicate otherwise.
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 10-23-2013, 12:37 PM #23 Member   Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 571 Rewards Points: 388 I won't have time to re-test it until Friday. I agree it should have some kind of indication somewhere - but I couldn't find anything besides the brand name engraved in the one wire. I originally thought that was it, however, I saw some glue / tape residue on the other wire which made me believe that was the one it fell off of (it literally happened as I was raising it into the air). It's hooked up currently with the one that I found the residue on, but this is making me believe maybe I was incorrect. I'll test it on Friday, but in the meantime, is it safe to run? I made sure the hot and neutral wire lugs were tucked way inside the plastic box with a good connection on the wire lug.
10-23-2013, 03:01 PM   #24
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Yes. It makes no difference at all in the operation of the fixture.

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