Hot Tub GFCI Test Button Not Tripping Breaker

a2zunknown

I installed a GFCI 50 amp Sub-Panel box and a hot tub last spring. Everything worked fine until i shut it down for the hotter months of this summer. I filled the hot tub up today and flipped the breaker on. I didnt hear the pump turn on so i hit the test button. There was a POP and a spark in the sub-panel. Scared the crap out of me. I only saw the spark out of the corner of my eye. But I thought that was a little abnormal but didnt think anything of it. I flipped the breaker on again and nothing from the tub again. I noticed that the control panel was lit up on the hot tub and the underwater light was working so i had power. After hours of troubleshooting i got out the multimeter and checked power and the hot tub end of the circuit. Black had power, red did not. So i checked at the breaker screws, same outcome. Then checked at the sub-panel input and had same outcome. So i looked at the main panel and realized i had pulled out the red wire that went to the sub-panel the other day (by accident) when i was removing a 240v 40 amp 8-3 wire that had the ends electrical taped, in my wall. (Not my work.) So i shut off power to the box and screwed it back in and flipped everything back on and heard the hot tub pump fire right up and has been running fine for an hr now. But i pushed the test button just for S&G (or to actually test it) but the breaker stays on. The button doesnt click either. It doesnt feel right when i press it. kinda feels jammed. Cant really say if it was like that before or not. Not too familiar with how the button felt or how one should feel when pressed... How can i safely test this breaker without the button working? Or should i break down and buy a new $100 breaker? Could the breaker interuption still function even if the button isnt working? I understand the test button sends power to the ground in order to test thie interuption is functioning but it almost feels like the button wont depress enough to allow this. If this is a major safety issue $100 is nothing to prevent me or one of my kids from being electrocuted. Any input on this is appreciated.

joecaption

#1 First double check you have the line and loads on the correct sides.
Line is incoming power, load goes to the tub.

If there right, I'd play it safe and replace it.

k_buz

I'm guessing a bad breaker that does need to be replaced. However, I can't explain why it went bad. Replace the breaker and if it doesn't do fix the problem return it.

Who's breaker is it?

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bobelectric

GFI breakers and device are to be tested monthly.The test button is the recommened test.

a2zunknown

I believe its a Lowes Sub-Panel all in one kit with breaker. If it wasnt Lowes it was Home Depot. It was about $150. Cant find a replacement breaker for less than $90. Seems kind of high. IDK if 50 amp is required or if i can go to a 40 or 30. Anyone know?

k_buz

Who makes the breaker? Where you bought it from does absolutely no good. You would have to check the specs of your tub.

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frenchelectrican

To find the answer open up the cover and read the label they will list the manufacter breaker name on the listing and to replace keep the same amp rating as old one is there.

When you change the GFCI breaker PLEASE pay attetion to the connection espcally on netural part the netural curry pigtail that will go right on the netural bussbar while the load ( to the spa ) netural will go to the load netural termatal location and it genrally well marked so you can't miss it.

So look at the breaker namebrand if not sure just take a photo and post it one of us will tell right away what brand.

Merci,
Marc

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The answer will be based on NEC ( National Electrical code ) or CEC ( Cananda Electrical code ) or ECF ( Electrique Code France )

danpik

Check and verify that the white pigtail wire from the breaker is attached to the neutral bar. The 240 GFCI will not work on the test mode if that is not hooked up.