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-   -   hot plug on washing machine (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/hot-plug-washing-machine-185964/)

DIherself 08-26-2013 12:57 PM

hot plug on washing machine
 
When I unplugged my washer from the top half of the receptacle, the 2-prong adapter was hot. I'm wondering if the bottom half of the receptacle would be all right to plug into to try.

To test whether it's the washer or the receptacle, would it be okay if I just plugged in a lamp on the top half to see if the lamp plug gets hot?

If I call an electrician, will he be able to test the washer to see if that is the culprit?

romex1220 08-26-2013 01:14 PM

Sounds like a loose connection at the outlet or a bad adapter. A lamp doesn't pull as much current as a washer does so that test wouldn't work. The adapter might not be rated for that kind of load either

Jim Port 08-26-2013 01:15 PM

You have already told us in the other thread that the washer is the problem.

DIherself 08-27-2013 09:24 AM

not my washer
 
The other thread caught my eye because I seemed to be having the same problem with a GFCI and a washing machine, but until I read this thread, I did not know whether the problem was my machine or the receptacle.

rjniles 08-27-2013 09:48 AM

Stop using a 2 prong adapter for a washing machine, Plug into a properly grounded 3 wire GFCI protected receptacle.

mpoulton 08-27-2013 11:21 AM

I second rjniles. A two-prong adapter on a washing machine is a real bad idea. Change the receptacle and run a ground if you have to.

old_squid 08-27-2013 11:44 AM

Someone else made the phrase "There's your sign" famous.

If you live by the rule that the only time anything should get warm/hot with electricity flowing through it is when it looks like a heater, has heater somewhere in it's name or is used to cook things......... you should never have to call 911 to report an electrical fire.

DIherself 08-28-2013 08:06 AM

that someone else...
 
...must not have been an electrician, nor did he/she even question the fact that a plug was hot.

I had a GFCI installed on one circuit for a new printer, and when I turned the printer on, the GFCI knocked out the circuit. The electlrician came back and said the GFCI was bad.

I tested another GFCI on my AC circuit, and when I pushed the test button, the GFCI knocked out that circuit just from pushing the test button. Nothing on that circuit was even on.

Could someone please give me the name of the best GFCI made so that I can get a good one installed?

Also could someone please tell me if maybe GFCI's are just not compatible with old houses that still have fuses? (Yes, I'm going to upgrade as soon as I can but in the meantime....)

jbfan 08-28-2013 08:25 AM

Did you push the reset button to get the gfci back on?

Asking which brand is better is like asking which car is better.

DIherself 08-28-2013 08:52 AM

gfci's for industrial vs. home use?
 
On the circuit with the printer, I did push the reset button. It did not click. I also pushed the test button, and it did not click. The electrician had just installed it. It was the first time I touched it right after the first time I turned on the printer.

On the circuit with the AC, I noticed the GFCI for the first time because the guy that fixed my wall put it in without telling me what it was. But because of the other circuit's GFCI, I knew what it was and I pushed the test button. It did not click. The reset button also did not click.

Each time, it was the first time I touched the brand new GFCI's -- once to try to get the circuit back on; the second time as a test.

My washing machine could still be making the plug hot, couldn't it? Can an electrician check a washing machine for a bad cord? (Yes, I'm going to get a 3-wire properly grounded protected receptacle anyway.) I really appreciate helping me understand.

circuitman 08-28-2013 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old_squid (Post 1234872)
Someone else made the phrase "There's your sign" famous.

If you live by the rule that the only time anything should get warm/hot with electricity flowing through it is when it looks like a heater, has heater somewhere in it's name or is used to cook things......... you should never have to call 911 to report an electrical fire.

it was a guy named bill engvall "HERE'S YOUR SIGN":laughing:

circuitman 08-28-2013 07:52 PM

the GFCI could be wired backwards also, it has a LINE & A LOAD side, want work backwards.:whistling2:

circuitman 08-28-2013 07:54 PM

it could be a bad wall plug that the washer is plugged into( worn out). if it has damaged the plug on the washer , go to your local hardware store & buy a replacement plug for it.

DIherself 08-29-2013 06:41 AM

new plug
 
thanks so much. I have been unplugging the washing machine after each load of laundry (to save electricity), but that probably wears the plug out sooner.

Can an electrician check the washing machine to see if all is well with that?

Also I still have receptacles that only have 2 slots (wires?)/no hole and I am not going to put any adapters on those till I upgrade. I have 2-prong appliances for those and everything's been fine, esp. if the point of the 3rd wire (hole?) is to ground for water. There's no water anywhere near some of these 2 slot receptacles...

wkearney99 08-29-2013 07:22 AM

You're not going to save any significant amount of electricity unplugging a device that's not in use. Sure, some modern appliances and other devices sometimes have a bit of a drain when inactive. But not enough to justify the risk for a high-drain device like a washer. Those things depend on a reliable electrical connection. Plugging and unplugging constantly will likely cause the plug, socket or wiring to fail sooner than expected.

It would be a very good idea to have at least one electrician look over your wiring. Any time you find a house that has a mix of 2 and 3 prong outlets there's likely be a long series of fiddling going on with the wiring. Best to stop and get a full picture of the wiring's condition and get it remedied. This will not be inexpensive, but it'd no doubt be cheaper than the risks of an electrical fire.


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