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Old 08-11-2012, 02:37 PM   #1
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Help Wiring Attic Fan Motor


I bought a replacement motor (Dayton 6k778k) for my attic fan. I removed the old one and it has two wires coming out that connect to two wires that go down to the light switch that turns it on. They were connected by those plastic twist things. So, I open up my new motor assuming that there would be two wires coming out of it that I would just connect to the existing wires, however there are just a bunch of blade connectors and I have no idea what is supposed to connect to what and how. I'm attaching three pictures. One is the old motor/wires, the second is the inside of the new motor, and the third is really the only thing that alludes to how this should he hitched up. 3 & 2 were pre-connected out of the box...which leaves 4 & 1. Is one of the wires from the light switch supposed to connect to 4 and one to 1? If so, which one goes to which? Do I need to put blade connectors on the end of the wires that go down to the light switch in order to connect them? Any help is much appreciated.
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Old 08-11-2012, 02:56 PM   #2
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Help Wiring Attic Fan Motor


Looks like your new motor can run either way (clockwise CW or counter-clockwise CCW) and has a way to change it on the motor itself. Not all have this feature, that motor's designed for more versatile setups than just as an attic fan (but it'll do the job). Then you're just connecting line voltage to the 4 & 1 terminals. Presumably you'd have to add the terminals to the wires for that.

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Old 08-11-2012, 03:54 PM   #3
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Help Wiring Attic Fan Motor


just run a new piece of (NM) romex from the jbox that fed that last motor, and connect accordingly to the label on the new motor... you'll know if it runs in the wrong direction pretty quickly.
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Old 08-11-2012, 05:34 PM   #4
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Help Wiring Attic Fan Motor


The two power wires that connected to the two wires on the old motor go under the two bolts with nuts. It doesn't matter which one goes under which nut. Be careful, there are two nuts on the stud, loosen only the top one. The wire goes between the two nuts. There might also be a washer between the nuts, it might be bent into a sort of cup shape. If so, it has a spot where it's flat. The wire enters under the flat spot. The cupped part holds the hook of the wire in.

If it runs forward, you're good. If it runs backward, swap the red and black. You'll probably need to use pliers to get the terminals off. They pull straight out, and fairly hard.

If you're using solid wire (like NM or Romex), make a hook in the wire, it'll fit under the nut better. If it's stranded (like a cord), 'untwist' the wire before you make the hook. By untwist I mean stranded wire comes twisted clockwise as you're looking at the stripped end. If you make the hook with the wire twisted this way, the strands will kick out as you tighten the nut. If they're twisted counter-clockwise, they'll stay under the nut as it's being tightened.

You can also crimp .250" quick-connect terminals onto stranded wire (but not solid) and simply push them onto the tabs closest to the nuts. I don't recommend using crimp terminals on high current terminations unless you have a good crimp tool though.

Rob
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