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Old 04-04-2013, 05:41 PM   #16
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Help mounting junction box!


Fixed my profile! Thanks for the help, would a small propane torch work ya think?

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Old 04-04-2013, 06:25 PM   #17
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Fixed my profile! Thanks for the help, would a small propane torch work ya think?
Yea, but you have to keep it moving or you will burn the pipe.
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:45 PM   #18
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Something like this? I guess just caulk around it where it pokes through the Sheetrock? If so would the lb be ok with the cover where it is or does it have to face away from the wall?
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:46 PM   #19
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Help mounting junction box!-image-1484926923.jpg
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:50 PM   #20
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That will be fine.
How far from the lb to the wall on the right?
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:54 PM   #21
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It's a foot and a half from the wall.
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:56 PM   #22
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It's a foot and a half from the wall.
As long as the 90 will fit into the corner.
How are you going outside the other way again.
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:09 PM   #23
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I am thinking now about just going straight out the way it's pointed in the pic and lb on the outside then into the ground. It will save me some fittings and wire but its going to be close to my dryer vent. One other thing I don't think you can see in the pic but non of the wires are stapled to the studs and there is one breaker that has has two wires going to it and it doesn't have the box connector bushing thing,, will the inspector make me fix that or is he just worried about my new run? I'm sure he will see it is why I'm asking
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:36 PM   #24
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Cut a 2x4 to fit between the studs horizontally, slip it behind the wires, toenail or screw it in place, staple the wires. Walla! up to code.

(It really depends on the inspector, but it's always a good idea to make them happy!)

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Old 04-04-2013, 11:32 PM   #25
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One other thing I don't think you can see in the pic but non of the wires are stapled to the studs and there is one breaker that has has two wires going to it and it doesn't have the box connector bushing thing,,
Are you talking about the knockout hole in the panel where the wire enters/leaves? If so, you have to put a connector in there.

Since there's access, I would staple the cable if for no other reason than I'm anal :D

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Old 04-05-2013, 07:05 AM   #26
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Ok. Yes it's where it enters the box. Shoul I leave the drywall open for inspection or put it back?
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:18 AM   #27
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Now thats perty.
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:52 AM   #28
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Ok. Yes it's where it enters the box. Shoul I leave the drywall open for inspection or put it back?
I wouldn't try to hide anything from the inspector. As far as the connector, he will be able to see it from inside the panel.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:16 PM   #29
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Bring the 90 into the side of the panel to straight down in the next stud cavity, partially recessing the box so there is half in half out and enter the new box behind the rock and exit the new box in the aforementioned perpendicular direction after re sheet rocking the cavities. 1 1/2 COULD BE USED BUT 1 1/4 INCH IS ALL THE CODE REQUIRES FOR UP TO 4 #2'S FOR JUST ABOUT ALL RIGID NON METALIC CONDUIT.
Most panels will have concentric ko's at the corners so easy solution to a simple task.. Or straight out of side depending on desired elevation of transition box and following conduit run. Be sure to use lots of 2 hole straps on that horizontal plastic run if it is in an area that has any movement in close proximity. One sure where exceeding the code cost little and can save future headaches.
Think outside the box, or stud bay as the case may be.
Remember doing something simple that can be simply done is the smart thing to do. It isn't a nuclear sub or rocket ship. One concern though is what capacity will you be feeding this circuit with. Panel is ??? how many amp fed by ???? amps with what size ????? load already on it. I recently went on a job where a new homeowner wanted a hot tub and the previous owner had a shop back in the garage and fed with a 100 amps off a 125 amp service with ac, electric dryer and electric range and it was underground service under all concrete. Bwah hah hah hah hah. The busbar was actualy melted away enough to not connect to a breaker under one pole of the 100 amp former shop feeder breaker. Is it #2 because of distance, expected load or????. May be time for a service upgrade. Is that panel rated for a subfeed that large. Some busbars are sized to a max lower than what # 2 will carry???
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:00 PM   #30
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Well I got to stressed trying to look up and read all this code junk so I am getting an electrician to finish the rest but its #2 alum. Because well basically it was cheaper than copper and all they had in alum. I am only using a 60 amp breaker to feed the shops 100amp panel. I'm sure ill be back for more help on wiring the outlets and what not. He is going to dig the ditch and finish running the conduit for me and hook it all up for $100, so going to just go that route. Thanks for all the help guys!

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