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Old 05-28-2010, 12:27 PM   #1
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Hard wiring dishwasher question


So I am nearing the end of my major kitchen renovation. I made one mistake. I placed an outlet behind the dishwasher to plug it in. Well, with a plug wired up I cannot push the dishwasher in enough. So, here is the best option I can see...

I bought a metal face plate for the outlet that you can punch out for a clamp. I was planning on using 12/2 romex into the box and connect everything inside for power. Is this ok?

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Old 05-28-2010, 12:30 PM   #2
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Hard wiring dishwasher question


Why not move the receptacle into the adjaecent cabinet? Just use the existing box as a splice point.

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Old 05-28-2010, 02:34 PM   #3
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Why not simply hard wire the dishwasher to the box? Only issue is if you plan to move the dishwasher, but if it is a permanent install, no issue.
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Old 05-28-2010, 04:16 PM   #4
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If you hardwire the dishwasher you need to install a breaker lockout device on the breaker that feeds it! Your cord and plug is your means of disconnect.

Jims suggestion above is a better solution!
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Old 05-30-2010, 04:58 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by sparks1up View Post
If you hardwire the dishwasher you need to install a breaker lockout device on the breaker that feeds it!

Jims suggestion above is a better solution!
Code reference please
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Old 05-30-2010, 08:25 AM   #6
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Code reference please
Appliances are required to have a means of disconnect. For dishwashers, you have a few options.

Some dishwashers will qualify under section 422.34 if the unit switch has a marked-off position and opens all ungrounded conductors.

Dishwashers are permitted to be cord-and-plug connected per section 422.16(B)(2) and section 422.33(A) permits this connection to serve as the disconnecting means.

422.31(B) provides a third disconnecting option. This allows the branch circuit breaker to serve as the disconnecting means if it is within sight of the appliance or can be locked in the open position.
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Old 05-30-2010, 10:48 AM   #7
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One of circuit protectors for my computers has a swivel plug that plugs into the wall. Lets it fit very close to the wall/rec. Maybe you could use one of these flush plugs.
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Old 05-30-2010, 03:48 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by sparks1up View Post
Appliances are required to have a means of disconnect. For dishwashers, you have a few options.

Some dishwashers will qualify under section 422.34 if the unit switch has a marked-off position and opens all ungrounded conductors.

Dishwashers are permitted to be cord-and-plug connected per section 422.16(B)(2) and section 422.33(A) permits this connection to serve as the disconnecting means.

422.31(B) provides a third disconnecting option. This allows the branch circuit breaker to serve as the disconnecting means if it is within sight of the appliance or can be locked in the open position.

Key words CAN BE LOCKED doesn't mean that it has to be locked. No one locks a breaker in the on position around here kinda silly if you ask me
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Old 05-30-2010, 03:57 PM   #9
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Key words CAN BE LOCKED doesn't mean that it has to be locked. No one locks a breaker in the on position around here kinda silly if you ask me
Its a lock off not a lock on! It is so you can lock out the circuit from being energized while you're working on it! Read it right! If that is really how you read that I think you're going to fail your inspection!
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Old 05-30-2010, 09:24 PM   #10
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You wont fail your inspection I promise you that. I've wired D.W. direct for many many years and you don't need anything special.
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Old 05-30-2010, 10:16 PM   #11
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I've yet to see any DW with a switch around here
One part of that section states breaker serves as the disconnect if not over 300v...1/8hp

*edit* not over 300va....not 300v
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Old 05-30-2010, 10:58 PM   #12
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Hard wiring dishwasher question


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Originally Posted by dSilanskas View Post
Key words CAN BE LOCKED doesn't mean that it has to be locked. No one locks a breaker in the on position around here kinda silly if you ask me
there are a lot of breakers that get locked on. One in particular are circuits for fire alarms. Many places reqqurie they be locked on


but that doesn't have anything to do with this. The dishwasher breaker needs to be able to be locked OFF.

and I have had an inspector check to be sure the breaker is lockable. I would think he would have failed the inspection if it were not.
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Old 05-30-2010, 11:04 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave View Post
I've yet to see any DW with a switch around here
One part of that section states breaker serves as the disconnect if not over 300v...1/8hp
check for appliances over 300 Va 1/8 hp. 422.21(B) and then check your dishwasher. 300 va is only 2.5 amps at 120 VAC.

breaker can be used but must be lockable. Locking mechanism must remain in place whether being used (at the moment) or not.
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Old 05-31-2010, 08:33 AM   #14
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check for appliances over 300 Va 1/8 hp. 422.21(B) and then check your dishwasher. 300 va is only 2.5 amps at 120 VAC.
Ahhh..va - missed that somehow
Yeah that changes things

Isn't a 40a/50a hard wired stove an appliance ?
So that should mean hardwired stoves & appliances also need lockouts on the breaker ?

I still think with an appliance Off is Off...no need for another disconnect in a residential setting
422.34 states that if the control has an OFF position then switch is not needed
Stoves & dishwashers have an OFF position
So for one family (C) applies - breaker is OK
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Old 05-31-2010, 08:42 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nap View Post
check for appliances over 300 Va 1/8 hp. 422.21(B) and then check your dishwasher. 300 va is only 2.5 amps at 120 VAC.

breaker can be used but must be lockable. Locking mechanism must remain in place whether being used (at the moment) or not.
Nap, just my observation, the inspectors we deal with in Berrien County, MI do not enforce this for residential installs.

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