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Old 02-22-2008, 09:43 PM   #16
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Ground Clamps Question


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Originally Posted by Silk View Post
What's the requirement for 2 ground rods about. The only one I know about is the more than 25 ohms one, is that the one your talking about?
If you only have one rod, you have to verify it has a resistance of 25 ohms or less to ground. If you add an additional rod, you exempt from the verification, 250.56. It's easier and cheaper to do the second rod than to get an engineer out with an FOP device.

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Old 02-22-2008, 09:55 PM   #17
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Ground Clamps Question


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Originally Posted by InPhase277 View Post
If you only have one rod, you have to verify it has a resistance of 25 ohms or less to ground. If you add an additional rod, you exempt from the verification, 250.56. It's easier and cheaper to do the second rod than to get an engineer out with an FOP device.

InPhase277
Thanks I know I read that somewhere.
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Old 02-22-2008, 09:59 PM   #18
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Ground Clamps Question


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Originally Posted by InPhase277 View Post
No, do not pull the flex off the wire. If you have the clamps that are made to to secure the flex to as well as the wire, which you do, you can leave the flex.
Ok the clamps on the rod and water pipe side I know are made for the flex, but what excatly is correct as for hooking them into the electrical panel?

As you see in the pics I left the flex on even going inside the panel. Is this ok? Thanks JIM
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Old 02-22-2008, 10:09 PM   #19
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Ground Clamps Question


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Originally Posted by integlikewhoa View Post
Ok the clamps on the rod and water pipe side I know are made for the flex, but what excatly is correct as for hooking them into the electrical panel?

As you see in the pics I left the flex on even going inside the panel. Is this ok? Thanks JIM
The connectors you've used at the panel are not the correct connectors. Those are for for romex. You need 3/8" flex connectors. With those, you will be forced to cut the flex, because they have a seat inside that the flex will sit on, so it cannot be inside the panel. You also need to bond the flex connectors to the ground wire in them by replacing the locknut that came with them with what electricians call "bonding bushings" or "ground bushings".

The wire will attach to the lug on the side and then continue to the ground bar. You just need to strip a little of the insulation off at that spot.

They look like this:

InPhase277
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Last edited by InPhase277; 02-22-2008 at 10:11 PM.
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Old 02-22-2008, 10:20 PM   #20
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Ground Clamps Question


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Sorry, you responded faster than I can type. Local stuff, I understand thanks.
No Problem Silk, Im tyring to read up on this gas stuff now. The paper they gave me shows nothing on it, but its just a quick run threw not a full code book. Like a local requirment only.
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Old 02-22-2008, 10:24 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by InPhase277 View Post
The connectors you've used at the panel are not the correct connectors. Those are for for romex. You need 3/8" flex connectors. With those, you will be forced to cut the flex, because they have a seat inside that the flex will sit on, so it cannot be inside the panel. You also need to bond the flex connectors to the ground wire in them by replacing the locknut that came with them with what electricians call "bonding bushings" or "ground bushings".

The wire will attach to the lug on the side and then continue to the ground bar. You just need to strip a little of the insulation off at that spot.

They look like this:

InPhase277
Thanks Inphase. Im trying to picture this thing. Doesnt the wire go threw the center im trying to figure how it get out side the circle to connect to that little lug?
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Old 02-22-2008, 10:33 PM   #22
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Thanks Inphase. Im trying to picture this thing. Doesnt the wire go threw the center im trying to figure how it get out side the circle to connect to that little lug?
That thing will screw on the connector in place of the locknut. The wire will come through the center, and you will have to loop it back and cut the insulation off the wire in a short length and lay the exposed wire in the lug on the side.

The reason both ends of the conduit have to be attached to the wire is because otherwise, the electromagnetic effect of a high current passing down the wire in a fault may actually cause the flex to act like a choke, restricting the current! That isn't a good thing. We eliminate the choke effect by making the flex part of the circuit itself.

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Old 02-22-2008, 10:38 PM   #23
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OK I think I got it. Im going to go shoping tonight and see what I can pick up and ill post back tomorrow and see if I havent done a good job. Thanks again for all your help.
JIM
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Old 02-22-2008, 10:43 PM   #24
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Ground Clamps Question


As far as strapping the pipe I believe you'll be OK, but if you feel like you need additional support you could get a short piece of 3/8" threaded rod and through bolt to the stud with a minnie.
In my experience, bonding the gas pipe in residential is done through 'incidental bonding'. That is to say, the systems are mechanically touching at some point and are unlikely to become energized. Not saying it's right, but...
That said, bonding jumpers around any equipment on the plumbing end is CRITICAL. Water meters, hot water tanks, water softeners, etc. These must have a bonding wire to maintain continuity in the event that the device gets removed. Just something to look out for.
Stranded conductors are just fine.
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Old 02-22-2008, 10:49 PM   #25
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If you only have one rod, you have to verify it has a resistance of 25 ohms or less to ground. If you add an additional rod, you exempt from the verification, 250.56. It's easier and cheaper to do the second rod than to get an engineer out with an FOP device.

InPhase277
Interesting, we've never been required to prove the "less than 25 ohms" requirement. Probably because I live in clay, rock and swamp country. I suppose if it was sand we would have to.

thanks
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Old 02-22-2008, 11:05 PM   #26
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In eastern Kansas it is simply drive two rods. I knew a electrician one time that drove as many a 8 ground rods on every job for new construction. The inspectors used to talk about him all the time over at the ole 56 cafe when they were having breakfast. Not sure what happened to him, we nicked named him sideways Jim, cause he drank pretty bad and walked side ways when first getting out of his truck, once he found his legs he was a pretty damn good electrician.
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Old 02-22-2008, 11:43 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Silk View Post
Interesting, we've never been required to prove the "less than 25 ohms" requirement. Probably because I live in clay, rock and swamp country. I suppose if it was sand we would have to.

thanks
Well, some places haven't got on the band wagon yet. It just takes an inspector that gets trigger happy with the code. It was only a few years ago that the counties around Atlanta started requiring it. A few far north of there don't. And still others don't even have inspectors yet. And alot of spots in Northern Alabama, there is no inspection or building dept at all!

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Old 02-23-2008, 01:18 AM   #28
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Ground Clamps Question


I'd say pull the wire out of the flex.


Did it come like that????


The 2x4 backing should fit between the rafters/joists above the top plate.....no?

The thru bolts would stick into the "attic" or ceiling space....can't really tell from the pic.

Last edited by 220/221; 02-23-2008 at 01:20 AM.
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Old 02-23-2008, 02:44 AM   #29
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I'd say pull the wire out of the flex.


Did it come like that????
It is sold like that and required in some places. Guess some locations don't like an exposed electrode conductor. It used to be common all over. I have seen it in catalogs from the 20s or 30s. They make fittings just for connecting it to electrodes.

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Old 02-23-2008, 01:54 PM   #30
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As far as selling ground cable here in california (15 min from LA) my local homedepot doesnt sell any bare wire labeled as ground. But they have a whole section of armored ground cable. Its sold that way. They have all different sizes. They have solid wire up to like 8 guage in a caseing, then from there up its stranded. But its sold already in the caseing pre assembled. And from what I have seen around here thats all they use.

I payed 80.00 for a 100ft of 4-1 armored ground cable.
its like 35.00 for 25ft.
They have premade WHIPs for a/c and other things with this armored cable and also have 100ft 12-2 or 12-3 with (I believe they call it) thhn wire pre ran threw.


Well anyways the HomeDepot was open till 12am last night so I picked up my supplys. Getting ready to do the install. Thanks Inphase.
That boding bushing sure has a small notch to fit that stranded 4 guage ground wire threw it, but well will see. Thanks again JIM

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