DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

Ground Bar

4K views 29 replies 7 participants last post by  Stubbie 
#1 ·
If you add an additional ground bar to the service panel (main disconnect) are you required to add a bonding jumper from the additional grounding bar to the ground/neutral bus or is the connection of the bar to the cabinet sufficient?
 
#15 ·
I agree. A lot of DIY'ers won't ever notice that the bus isn't configured for neutrals.

A word of caution here: When adding a bonding conductor between ground/neutral buses, you need to be extremely careful not to get the large conductor near the live SE conductors. Even with the main breaker shut off, there are still exposed live parts at the lugs.
It's too easy to be pulling wires in that area and have one get across the live parts, causing either electrocution, or an arc-flash.

I would run the bonding wire at the opposite end, as far from the main breakers as possible.
You should be able to position the large lugs for the bonding wire at any point on the ground/neutral buses.

FW
 
#13 · (Edited)
Wait a minute guys. If you add a 'ground bar' to the main panel (service equipment) that is not on insulated standoffs and is mounted to the metal of the can you can only connect grounds to it.... NO neutrals. You cannot use the metal of the can for a neutral return path nor can you use a jumper between the added ground bar and the factory neutral. This will allow for a parallel return of neutral current if you did. You also must use a mounting connection that allows at least 2 threads in contact with the metal thickness as mandated in NEC 250.8 if you do not use factory mounting holes.
 
#16 · (Edited)
So the factory ground/neutral bar(s) are insulated from the box?
Yes, and if service equipment there will be a main bonding jumper to the metal of the panel. Square d and others use a green bonding screw.

A word of caution here: When adding a bonding conductor between ground/neutral buses, you need to be extremely careful not to get the large conductor near the live SE conductors. Even with the main breaker shut off, there are still exposed live parts at the lugs.
It's too easy to be pulling wires in that area and have one get across the live parts, causing either electrocution, or an arc-flash.
Why are you adding bonding jumpers between neutral bars ? If this is service equipment the panel will have a main bonding jumper.
 
#18 ·
Yes, and if service equipment there will be a main bonding jumper to the metal of the panel. Square d and others use a green bonding screw.

Why are you adding bonding jumpers between neutral bars ? If this is service equipment the panel will have a main bonding jumper.
I'm not doing anything with my panel. The OP wanted to install a grounding bar, and it was suggested that he instead install a grounding/neutral bar.

I believe that most panels have kits to add a second ground/neutral bar.

FW
 
#25 ·
Ok, now I'm confused
This isn't my panel - just as an example
The bar on the far left is a grounding bar ONLY - since it isn't connected to the Neutral/Ground "bar" on the panel ? Yes, No?

Now on either side of the panel is another bar
On my panel these are tied together & secured to the case by a green ground screw (SE - service entrance)
Are you calling these the "bus" ?

Now the reason you can't use the bar on the left for neutrals is because it doesn't have the stand-off insulators? But if it did have stand-offs you could then attach a wire to connect it to the neutral/ground "bus"
If so, what size wire would be needed?

And the reason not to use the bar on the left is that you do not want current flowing thru the case, which is what would happen if you landed neutrals there

I think this started to make more sense as I typed it out
Unless I'm still off?
Thanks
 
#28 · (Edited)
Ok, now I'm confused
This isn't my panel - just as an example
The bar on the far left is a grounding bar ONLY - since it isn't connected to the Neutral/Ground "bar" on the panel ? Yes, No?
Yes

Now on either side of the panel is another bar
On my panel these are tied together & secured to the case by a green ground screw (SE - service entrance)
Are you calling these the "bus" ?
Bus, bar, terminal strip whatever you want to call it. Yes. You also have hot buses that the breakers attach to so you may chose to just call them terminal strips to avoid confusing the two.

Now the reason you can't use the bar on the left for neutrals is because it doesn't have the stand-off insulators? But if it did have stand-offs you could then attach a wire to connect it to the neutral/ground "bus"
If so, what size wire would be needed?
There should never be any reason to add more neutral terminal bars. Your panel will allow at least 2 grounds of the same size under a screw. One neutral per terminal connection. If you need more circuits and need more neutral terminal connections you add the ground bar to the left and move grounds to it to free up space on the neutral/ground bars the factory installed.

And the reason not to use the bar on the left is that you do not want current flowing thru the case, which is what would happen if you landed neutrals there
Yep you got it

I think this started to make more sense as I typed it out
Unless I'm still off?
Thanks
[/quote]
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top