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Old 06-09-2010, 12:09 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by sparks1up View Post
Yes from what you are describing the problem is between the house panel and the shore outlet! Could even be a power Co. problem, check voltage line to neutral in house panel.

Thanks will do that. My multi just died... gonna go buy a new and and get right on it in just a few min.... will post the results....

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If you were to plug something into the socket the neutral ground voltage would probably go to 110. Look for loose neutral connection anywhere there is a junction including in the panel.

Ok... there is a splice back at the house...before entering the home under the eave of the roof. I will check that connection first.... will post results

Thanks for the input! I appreciate it!

Got the multi to work again... so I took a reading at the panel in the house for the shore power receptacle. It read 120 Hot to Neutral. And it reads 101-104 at the receptacle for the Travel Trailer shore power receptacle. I guess this means that it has to be the "splice" between the shore power receptacle and the house... will dig into that after lunch...
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Old 06-09-2010, 12:57 PM   #17
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How far is it from the house to the receptacle and what size wire did you run?
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:19 PM   #18
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Any voltage tester except a Wiggy or a 'Lo-Z' meter needs a small incand. lamp across the leads to kill Phantom Voltages.
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:30 PM   #19
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How far is it from the house to the receptacle and what size wire did you run?

Sparks, the run from the corner of the house to the receptacle is approx 60-75 feet. The wire was pre-existing when the house was purchased and it is supposed to be good for 50 amps I am told. Its really heavy wire. Sorry I don't know the gauge of it....
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Old 06-09-2010, 03:11 PM   #20
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OK that should be good ...keep checking for a bad splice
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Old 06-09-2010, 04:32 PM   #21
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OK that should be good ...keep checking for a bad splice

Well OOOO my goodness!!

I found three pieces of wire spliced together to make it from the shore power receptacle to the house. The house cable is approx #SIX and the rest of the run is about 10 or 12. The spices were composed of laying bare wires longwise next to each other and wrapping with Electrician's tape... no twists, no wire nuts... no shrink wrap ....NADA! One splice was buried maybe 2 inches under ground with only the tape... bare wires poking through the tape and mud and water had inundated into the entire connection!!!!!
I have started replacing and correcting this mess.... will test the power this evening when I am through and advise on the outcome...


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Old 06-09-2010, 04:38 PM   #22
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What are the requirements of your RV? Before you reuse and splice #6 to #10 to #12 you should see what your RV requires. But for the distance and load I would not run anything smaller than #10 for a 20-amp #8 for a 30-amp! Also this needs to be either UF cable or in conduit and wire and both need to be buried at least 18" below grade!

I think most RV's are 120-volt hook-ups but if yours is 240-volt you need either a four wire type UF romex (black, red, white, green) or 4-wires in conduit (black, red, white, green)
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Old 06-09-2010, 08:45 PM   #23
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The travel trailer is wired for 30 amp service. I will start trenching tomorrow... I just wanted to wire up the line to make sure it is working properly before I make it permanent and test it out one last time.
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Old 06-10-2010, 01:09 AM   #24
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I measured the distance and its about 50 feet actually. The run is with at least #10.... so I hope it will be ok. The test hook up was a SUCCESS!!
I have good power... all is back to normal. Now to finish digging the trench and install a new Air Conditioner.... it never ends.....

Thanks to everyone for the input.... this is a great site.
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Old 06-10-2010, 09:33 AM   #25
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So the hot & neutral were reversed at the bad splice?
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Old 06-11-2010, 12:08 PM   #26
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So the hot & neutral were reversed at the bad splice?
No, they were loose.... whoever wired it just laid the two pieces of each lead side by side and taped them. No twists, no wirenuts... nothing... and they came apart.... plus one spice was 2 inches underground and soaked with water and mud... bare wires poking through the electricians tape.....
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Old 06-11-2010, 02:09 PM   #27
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No, they were loose.... whoever wired it just laid the two pieces of each lead side by side and taped them. No twists, no wirenuts... nothing... and they came apart.... plus one spice was 2 inches underground and soaked with water and mud... bare wires poking through the electricians tape.....
So how was it that you were reading H and N reversed with a tester?
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Old 06-11-2010, 07:14 PM   #28
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So how was it that you were reading H and N reversed with a tester?

I have no idea why it read that. Someone suggested that it was what the GFI was trying to say.... that it was a problem with a neutral wire... not the hot / grnd. And it turned out to be so. Go figure....
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Old 06-11-2010, 08:16 PM   #29
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I call those plug in testers "3-eyed liars." They are a very simple circuit, and can give some confusing readings sometimes. For instance, if you have a hot/neutral reversed, with a hot ground, they will read normal.

It has also been my experience that if the neutral has an open or loose connection, they will show the "hot/ground reverse" pattern.
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Old 06-11-2010, 09:02 PM   #30
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I call those plug in testers "3-eyed liars." They are a very simple circuit, and can give some confusing readings sometimes. For instance, if you have a hot/neutral reversed, with a hot ground, they will read normal.

It has also been my experience that if the neutral has an open or loose connection, they will show the "hot/ground reverse" pattern.
I had a schematic for one off the Internet.

So they will read 7 of the ~30 ways to wire or not wire a 3 terminal outlet and they depend on only one fault to be present at a time. You trade convenience for being lied to once in a while. Now I'm glad I never bought one.

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