GFCI - White & Black Both HOT?
 

Trying to repair/replace GFCI on a kitchen island.
Standard 2-wire coming into the GFCI, but BOTH the white & black wires are HOT......obviously, the GFCI is not working.

Tried to troubleshoot a little....found that other receptacle (dining room) on the same circuit has incoming and outgoing 2-wire and ALL 4 wires (2 black, 2 white) are HOT.
There is one other GFCI (in the dining room) on the same circuit that is working....however, when I remove the black wire from the LOAD side, all of the same wires on the other 2 outlets (GFCI & the Standard) are still ALL HOT.

Neither the GFCI or the standard receptacle are working.

Note: the kitchen island has two GFCIs....the other one is working.
The one GFCI on the island (not working) and the other 2 receptacles mentioned (GFCI in the dining room & Standard in the dining room) are on one circuit.....however, when I shut the breaker for the other GFCI on the island (that is working), this also shuts off the GFCI in the dining room that is working & is also on the same circuit as the other GFCI in the island that's not working....?

Please help...thanks in advance!

Hot? Did you use a tester? What do you consider hot? Power going through a white wire doesn't make it a hot wire, just means that it is part of an energized circuit.

What kind of tester are you using to verify the wires are hot?

Is each of the wires showing 120v to the ground wire? :)

Yes...Each of the wires going to the GFCI are showing 120v to the ground wire.
I just used a volt tester and tested each wire/screw to ground.

Same thing for the outlet in the dining room...all wires are 120v to the ground wire.

Should I trace the wires coming into the GFCI using a resistance test? Then I can know where the wires are coming from?
What to do next?
Thanks for the help.

Sounds like something is wired wrong in a box somewhere or maybe in your panel. What do you get when you test between the hot and neutral.

That is the symptom of an open neutral.

With a load imposed.

Or a high-impedance input digital meter that is reading phantom voltage on disconnected lines ... (GFCIs disconnect both the hot and neutral when tripped)

Just tested both the GFCI and the outlet in the dining room...both look like they have an open neutral.
When I tested between hot and neutral nothing registered...same on both.

How do I go about fixing an open neutral?

Gotta find where its open. Shut off your breaker and see what else goes off. Start testing those devices

Look in the nearest working box on the same circuit. If it's not there then keep looking in other boxes on the circuit.

Found the loose neutral connection in nearest working box - problem solved.
Thanks for all of the help - this forum has been great.